CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Apr 12, 2014 8:25:31 GMT -8
I ran across this paint at the auto store. It's heat range is like from 1300 - 3000 degrees. It comes in a few colors in flat but there's also a satin finish clear that you can use on top. Any thoughts from the "paint experienced" people?
www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/ |
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 12, 2014 9:22:19 GMT -8
Wow.. great resource. I just added that to my book marked pages.. if it works it will save a lot of people money on reglazing their stoves..
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Apr 12, 2014 10:01:26 GMT -8
My only question would be how to do the cure process. And you'd have to "give up" the shiny stove top. But if you can get over the latter and figure out the former, you've got it made!
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 12, 2014 19:58:51 GMT -8
VHT (very high temperature) is an automotive engine paint brand that is designed to paint exhaust headers, and cast iron exhaust manifolds. You must cure the paint, by running the engine and getting the part that you painted into the 1000 degree plus range. It dries to an almost chalky finish and is a "ok product" for its intended use.
It would never be a good choice for a stove top, or a range door in a vintage trailer. It would be a cheap way to maybe refinish the cast iron stove top grates. But then again, you could do the same thing with just some bar-b-que paint.
Many stove tops are done with porcelain, and its very hard to get "paint to bond to glass" which is what porcelain is.
Ceramic coating would be a better choice, and is do by some powder coating shops. The down side is limited colors.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 12, 2014 20:03:44 GMT -8
VHT (very high temperature) is an automotive engine paint brand that is designed to paint exhaust headers, and cast iron exhaust manifolds. You must cure the paint, by running the engine and getting the part that you painted into the 1000 degree plus range. It dries to an almost chalky finish and is a "ok product" for its intended use.
It would never be a good choice for a stove top, or a range door in a vintage trailer. It would be a cheap way to maybe refinish the cast iron stove top grates. But then again, you could do the same thing with just some bar-b-que paint.
Many stove tops are done with porcelain, and its very hard to get "paint to bond to glass" which is what porcelain is.
Ceramic coating would be a better choice, and is done by some powder coating shops. The down side is limited colors.
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Apr 12, 2014 21:40:04 GMT -8
The VHT Engine Enamel comes in 25+ colors, including Teal, Hot Pink and Magenta, there are Flat, Satin, Gloss & Metallic and are durable up to 550 degrees. To cure you need to bake for 20 min. at 200 degrees, easily accomplished in my kitchen (obviously just the painted exterior panels, not the whole oven). The VHT Flameproof must be cured for 30 min. at 250, 400 and 650 degrees. My oven only goes to 550, but I'm wondering if that isn't enough. Both paints claim to have a "ceramic base".
Would a propane stovetop get hotter than 550?
This paint caught my eye initially because I have read several of Mr. Palmer's comments regarding the inappropriateness of powder coating on an oven because of heat. Of course I would love to have my stovetop recoated in porcelain or ceramic, but I'm guessing at this point that it would be beyond my budget.
I like the color selection of the Engine paint but the heat resistance of the Flameproof. I'm wondering if it would work to do a primer coat in the Flameproof and topcoat it with the Engine, heating the Flameproof to the 550 degree point?
Interested in all comments/suggestions.
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txoil
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Post by txoil on Apr 13, 2014 4:04:43 GMT -8
I have to add something here...As John Palmer noted, the VHT paints are for headers or exhaust systems and aren't really what you would want for a cook top. HOWEVER, from the shooting world, there are several products which would work well. Duracoat, CeraKote and Molyresin are different firearms finishes which are sprayed onto a surface, and either air dry or are oven cured (depending upon temp range of intended use). Cerakote is a ceramic coating which is incredibly hard and wear resistant and would be an ideal coating for a cooktop. It is available in many colors and even a clear, so you can put a gloss upon a nonglossy color. I have firearms which are Cerakoted and regularly stand up to extreme heat and wear conditions, with no apparent wear. Google 'firearms coating' in your local area and you will probably turn up coating businesses close by. At much less $$$ than re-porcelainizing a cooktop or oven door.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 13, 2014 8:38:05 GMT -8
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Post by bigbill on Apr 13, 2014 18:53:46 GMT -8
As some of these finishes heat up and cure I would be careful about putting them in my kitchen oven due to foul odors that may be given off. Unless your family/spouse can take a joke the life you save could be your own.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 13, 2014 19:40:21 GMT -8
This would be a "comment in general" about restoration, or some might call it "an opinion" from an old gezzer.
These little trailers that we have come to love were never built with any wild idea that they might last sixty years, or more. They were never intended that someone would be taking them apart and doing extensive repairs someday. They were cheaply built, "in many cases out of WW2 surplus materials".
I have a hard time understanding why some restorers want to take something that has lasted the beating of mother nature so well and try to reinvent all the construction techniques and change materials. It worked well for sixty years or more, just repair the damage and enjoy it for another sixty years or more. Cutting corners on time, or materials is not going to restore the trailer back to an original condition.
New building materials today are not cheap. It is a much better "return on your investment" of time and materials to choose the best year/make/model/size trailer to rebuild that will give you a return. Then follow through and don't cut corners. For example is it cost justified to re-porcelain a stove top? Likely not on a 1970's "box like" trailer, but it would be a good investment on a 1940's, or a 1950's trailer.
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