gonekayaking
Active Member
enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
Posts: 410
Likes: 75
1956 Shasta 1500
Currently Offline
|
Post by gonekayaking on Jun 25, 2013 12:04:49 GMT -8
Hi all Posted this over on VSTF right before the board closed. After living with a less than strong flame on my stove, I've decided to give the burners a good cleaning. This involves unscrewing them from the bar that crosses the top of the stove....but they are really rusted. I'm looking for some good tips. It's a flat head screw. First pic where one burner has the cover off (any ideas on how to secure this?)
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Jun 25, 2013 12:53:28 GMT -8
I would spray them with PB Blaster let them soak over night then place screw driver in the slot and tap with a hammer just enough to cause a little vibration to loosen. Usually that will allow you to turn the screws. Normally the covers are held in place by small spring clips that slide down in the burner. They usually just slide out and back in as you lift or replace cover.
|
|
cowcharge
1K Member
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 328
Currently Offline
|
Post by cowcharge on Jul 24, 2013 18:30:00 GMT -8
What he said. If that doesn't work, spray, let it sit, heat with a torch, spray, let sit, heat, spray. The heating and cooling expands and contracts the two parts, often breaking the rust's grip. Or just cut the screw head off with a Dremel and drill the rest out.
|
|
azshastanut
Active Member
Posts: 279
Likes: 82
1957 Kenskill 16T
Currently Offline
|
Post by azshastanut on Feb 27, 2014 12:07:44 GMT -8
I just finished disassembling, cleaning, bead blasting steel and cast iron, and in the process of painting panels and other previously painted parts with high temp enamel. The easiest way to take the burners out is to remove the bar so you can get at the square nuts. After spraying with PB Blaster you can hold the bar and twist the burner slightly. Mine came right off with a screwdriver after working it back and forth a few times. The aluminum burner cover is held in place by the screw that you see in the center of the cast iron burner. To remove them you hold the burner in one hand and grip the aluminum with the other and unscrew it. Incidently there is a clip on the end of each burner tube which adjusts the air flow and the flame. They are just spring loaded and you twist them to open or close the draft tube on the burner which increases or decreases the flame. Hope this helps.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 569
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Feb 28, 2014 19:48:04 GMT -8
I just did the same on my stove top this week.
You can polish the aluminum tops of the burners that you unscrewed. They will look like new. Also, regular black paint works just fine on the cast iron part of the burner bases, because "it does not get hot to the touch". Make sure you pull the fuel jets out and clean the spider webs out if it's been sitting. You can adjust the "air valve" for each burner after you get it lit for proper air/fuel mixture. If you camp at higher altitude, you might need to adjust them a little again.
My stove had a nice white porcelain top, but the metal base was just painted and rusty/crusty looking. Since the top was originally white, I just sprayed the base with Polar White for a perfect match. If you only need to touch up part of the base you can sand, primer, paint it. Then color sand it with 2000 grit paper and buff it back to a shine.
|
|
Rain Dancer
Junior Member
Posts: 52
Likes: 4
1966 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 3, 2014 12:38:40 GMT -8
Hi all, I would like to repaint my stove and understand it can be done with Drivetrain paint from an automotive shop. Any input would be great. I also would like more details on how to shine up the chrome parts. John, what do you mean by "color sand". Thanks,
|
|
Rain Dancer
Junior Member
Posts: 52
Likes: 4
1966 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 3, 2014 12:45:06 GMT -8
Here is a photo of the kitchen area. I hope I did the link correctly.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Mar 4, 2014 0:25:35 GMT -8
Beautiful, Rain Dancer.
|
|
Rain Dancer
Junior Member
Posts: 52
Likes: 4
1966 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 4, 2014 13:36:31 GMT -8
Thanks. Here is a more current photo, after I painted the drawer fronts.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 569
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Mar 4, 2014 13:46:38 GMT -8
Hi all, I would like to repaint my stove and understand it can be done with Drivetrain paint from an automotive shop. Any input would be great. I also would like more details on how to shine up the chrome parts. John, what do you mean by "color sand". Thanks, I have not heard of "Drive Train paint". I have used Chassis Paint, and would not think it's a good choice to paint a stove. Frankly it's durable for stone chips under a car, but it's also ugly. You can just use regular Krylon rattle can gloss black for the inside of the stove top because it does not get hot. It will also do the cast iron burners just fine. If your worried about heat, just spray it with Bar-B-Que black. I would not paint the inside of the oven, even with high heat paint, because it stinks, at least till it's cured.
The parts that I "shinned up" were aluminum, not chromed steel. You can polish them on a buffing wheel with emery grit to a mirror like shine. It also makes them easier to keep clean without the porous pits.
You can "color sand" by using increasingly finer grits of sand paper, and finish with even finer grits of rubbing compounds. You always want to start with something "too fine" to figure out exactly where to start. I had a 1950's refrigerator door with scratches and rust around the edges, but the center looked OK. I sanded the scratches and rusted areas with 400 grit. Primed, and painted the door edge with Polar White Krylon rattle can paint. Let it dry for a couple of weeks, then color sanded the door edge (with 1000 grit wet paper) in the area of "overspray" where the new paint met the original paint. Then sanded the entire door with 2000 grit wet. It was finished with a short machine buff with a wool pad, and some 3M rubbing compound. It looks like new, but only the edge was painted.
|
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Mar 4, 2014 15:13:05 GMT -8
Thanks. Here is a more current photo, after I painted the drawer fronts. I have seen so many of the avocado green appliances lately that I had forgotten they used the white ones in the middle-60-s models. I usually cringe at paint too, but this type paneling is better after it's painted. Nice original floor too.
|
|
Rain Dancer
Junior Member
Posts: 52
Likes: 4
1966 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 4, 2014 15:26:49 GMT -8
John thanks for the info. My stove is really in good shape as you can see; I just want to change the color. So how do I prep the "colored" part of the stove to change the color? The inside looks great so no worries there. Also, I believe the trim around the stove top is aluminum so I can probably get that to shine with fine steel wool and vinegar or polishing compound as suggested on this site. Oh btw I didn't know what the burners were made of; I may have misspoke when I said chrome. Are they aluminum?
|
|
Rain Dancer
Junior Member
Posts: 52
Likes: 4
1966 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 4, 2014 15:30:56 GMT -8
Thanks Ten. The stove is actually a almond color. I guess the lighting makes it appear white. I was shocked when I pulled up the carpeting and the original floor was in really nice shape. There is one spot that has a burn mark. I posted a question on one of the boards where I saw that someone had cut out a heart shape in the flooring and put in a piece of heart shaped red linoleum. Looked cool. So I was thinking I may want to do that. Just waiting on and answer as to how.
|
|
SusieQ
Global Moderator
Posts: 4,781
Likes: 1,197
'62 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by SusieQ on Mar 4, 2014 18:03:02 GMT -8
I saw that someone had cut out a heart shape in the flooring and put in a piece of heart shaped red linoleum. Looked cool. So I was thinking I may want to do that. Just waiting on and answer as to how. Rain Dancer, have you checked your messages?
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 569
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Mar 4, 2014 21:29:39 GMT -8
John thanks for the info. My stove is really in good shape as you can see; I just want to change the color. So how do I prep the "colored" part of the stove to change the color? The inside looks great so no worries there. Also, I believe the trim around the stove top is aluminum so I can probably get that to shine with fine steel wool and vinegar or polishing compound as suggested on this site. Oh btw I didn't know what the burners were made of; I may have misspoke when I said chrome. Are they aluminum? The bottom of your burner (the rusty part in the photo) is cast iron and can be wire brushed and painted with regular paint. The top part of the burner that you unscrewed from the bottom "is aluminum" and it can be polished to a bright mirror like finish. Remember if your in doubt, a magnet sticks to steel, but not to aluminum.
I would not suggest that you try to "paint over porcelain". It's baked on glass, and it's hard to get paint to stick to glass. If you need to make it happen, start with a two part epoxy primer first after proper preparation.
|
|