|
Post by lichenvintage on Apr 9, 2014 20:10:45 GMT -8
Just paid for my 2nd trailer today, a 1956 Travelite…While the trailer is in remarkably good condition, the previous owner thought it a good idea to remove the original 6 hole wheel drop axle and install a 5 hole replacement axle equipped with electric brakes using the wheels off his other trailer…I guess so he could tow up and down a mountain pass. At least he left the remains and most of the parts of the original axle on the ground, which I intend to reinstall. Was on the web today looking at Northern Tools website and they sell a pair of 6 hole drums/hubs bearings backplates and electric brake set up for what seems like a reasonable price. Since the original trailer was hydraulic brakes with a master cylinder, it makes sense to install at least a pair of these so the trailer has some brakes. Anyone have any experience with changing out hydraulic brake drums for the electric brake type? Any help would be appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by lichenvintage on Apr 9, 2014 20:16:47 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Apr 10, 2014 5:19:48 GMT -8
Electric and surge hydraulic brakes are completely different. To switch from hydraulic to electric or vice versa you must change the entire system including backing plates, hubs/drums , and coupler. Before buying parts you need to know bolt patterns for the backing plat mounting and the wheels you wish to run. Then you you need to know weight of trailer so that you can buy the proper size brakes required, next you need to know the spindle diameter a if it is straight or stepped (two different diameters) also the length of the spindle and seal diameter for rear bearing so that you can buy hubs that fit your axle. All of this is critical to get the proper parts you will need. Sounds complicated but if you are buying from a professional company they should be able to guide you through it.
|
|
|
Post by lichenvintage on Apr 10, 2014 5:44:48 GMT -8
Thanks BigBill…Is there anyway to determine the make of the axles..i.e. Dexter etc…?
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 574
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Apr 10, 2014 12:54:31 GMT -8
I have seen compatibility problems when you start to use aftermarket replacement parts made by different manufacturers, and these parts are made in different countries. I would recommend that when suspension replacement parts are finally required (after 60 years), that the entire axle/backing plate/hub/drum/brake assembly be replaced with a modern assembly from a major "known company" such as Dexter, or others. It's not very expensive, and at least you will be able to purchase available replacement parts in the future "as needed". Nothing worse than being in some small town on a Sunday afternoon trying to get home with a burnt out wheel bearing, of some vintage size. You will not be able to tell a replacement axle from an original axle after it's installed. I'm assuming that we are rebuilding these trailer's to actually use.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 574
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Apr 10, 2014 13:01:08 GMT -8
Electric and surge hydraulic brakes are completely different. To switch from hydraulic to electric or vice versa you must change the entire system including backing plates, hubs/drums , and coupler. Before buying parts you need to know bolt patterns for the backing plat mounting and the wheels you wish to run. Then you you need to know weight of trailer so that you can buy the proper size brakes required, next you need to know the spindle diameter a if it is straight or stepped (two different diameters) also the length of the spindle and seal diameter for rear bearing so that you can buy hubs that fit your axle. All of this is critical to get the proper parts you will need. Sounds complicated but if you are buying from a professional company they should be able to guide you through it. Good advice BigBill.
If someone were to go the Dexter site, they would find a very good worksheet to help with all of measurements and options to order the correct replacement axle assembly. They are usually "custom built" to your order, and arrive in a couple of weeks.
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Apr 10, 2014 17:47:16 GMT -8
I have seen compatibility problems when you start to use aftermarket replacement parts made by different manufacturers, and these parts are made in different countries. I would recommend that when suspension replacement parts are finally required (after 60 years), that the entire axle/backing plate/hub/drum/brake assembly be replaced with a modern assembly from a major "known company" such as Dexter, or others. It's not very expensive, and at least you will be able to purchase available replacement parts in the future "as needed". Nothing worse than being in some small town on a Sunday afternoon trying to get home with a burnt out wheel bearing, of some vintage size. You will not be able to tell a replacement axle from an original axle after it's installed. I'm assuming that we are rebuilding these trailer's to actually use. John someone already converted it to a modern axle and he wishes to swap it back to the original for some reason.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 574
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Apr 10, 2014 21:52:54 GMT -8
I have seen compatibility problems when you start to use aftermarket replacement parts made by different manufacturers, and these parts are made in different countries. I would recommend that when suspension replacement parts are finally required (after 60 years), that the entire axle/backing plate/hub/drum/brake assembly be replaced with a modern assembly from a major "known company" such as Dexter, or others. It's not very expensive, and at least you will be able to purchase available replacement parts in the future "as needed". Nothing worse than being in some small town on a Sunday afternoon trying to get home with a burnt out wheel bearing, of some vintage size. You will not be able to tell a replacement axle from an original axle after it's installed. I'm assuming that we are rebuilding these trailer's to actually use. John someone already converted it to a modern axle and he wishes to swap it back to the original for some reason. AHH............I totally missed that BigBill, Thanks.
But if we are talking about a single axle trailer, it seems odd that it would have a 7000# axle, requiring the 12" brakes listed in the link.
Agree that we need some additional information to give any good advice. I would not put Chinese backing plates and hubs, on just any make of axle. All the parts must work together. I had a trailer with a 3500# axle, that the owner replaced the 10" backing plate assemblies with the cheap Chinese made copies, and one wheel brake magnet dragged on the brake drum causing it to overheat the brake going down the road.
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Apr 11, 2014 2:26:41 GMT -8
John you usually get what you pay for.
|
|
|
Post by lichenvintage on Apr 11, 2014 19:06:15 GMT -8
I got the trailer moved after several trips to the salvage yard for wheels and tires. Sorry I wasn't clearer in my post. The Travelite is a 29' twin axle trailer. Original wheels were 6 hole (same as a lot of 6 hole chevrolet wheels), the previous owner had removed one entire axle, left it lay outside after removing one of the drums. He then replaced the front axle with a modern 5 hole drop axle but left me without 5 hole wheels, his reason for doing this was hauling it 400 miles, he wanted electric brakes , hence the installation of the newer 5 hole axle. My dilemma was having to gather up(2) 5 hole wheels. Also the original 6 hole wheels were the 2 piece rims with the solid rings, which none of the tire shops will touch because of liability. So also bought 5 more 6 hole wheels from a Mitsubishi pickup that seem to work fine. Since it's not practical to be carrying 2 different spares I'd like to reinstall the original 6 hole axle assembly that the previous owner removed, if rather not try to redo all the hydraulics and go back with the original surge brakes, instead go with electric brakes. Appears the relacement drums and elec backing plates use the same hole pattern, although the newer drums user a larger wheel stud. I haven't checked to see if the backing plates have the same hole pattern where they bolt to the axle. I'm assuming if I can replace the drums and back plates they will likely require a change in races and bearings to adapt to the original axle spindles. All I'm trying to do is retain the original 6 hole wheel pattern add elec brakes without having to change entire axles . Thanks all for your help. Dave
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 574
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Apr 11, 2014 21:45:57 GMT -8
I got the trailer moved after several trips to the salvage yard for wheels and tires. Sorry I wasn't clearer in my post. The Travelite is a 29' twin axle trailer. Original wheels were 6 hole (same as a lot of 6 hole chevrolet wheels), the previous owner had removed one entire axle, left it lay outside after removing one of the drums. He then replaced the front axle with a modern 5 hole drop axle but left me without 5 hole wheels, his reason for doing this was hauling it 400 miles, he wanted electric brakes , hence the installation of the newer 5 hole axle. My dilemma was having to gather up(2) 5 hole wheels. Also the original 6 hole wheels were the 2 piece rims with the solid rings, which none of the tire shops will touch because of liability. So also bought 5 more 6 hole wheels from a Mitsubishi pickup that seem to work fine. Since it's not practical to be carrying 2 different spares I'd like to reinstall the original 6 hole axle assembly that the previous owner removed, if rather not try to redo all the hydraulics and go back with the original surge brakes, instead go with electric brakes. Appears the relacement drums and elec backing plates use the same hole pattern, although the newer drums user a larger wheel stud. I haven't checked to see if the backing plates have the same hole pattern where they bolt to the axle. I'm assuming if I can replace the drums and back plates they will likely require a change in races and bearings to adapt to the original axle spindles. All I'm trying to do is retain the original 6 hole wheel pattern add elec brakes without having to change entire axles . Thanks all for your help. Dave Sounds to me that your going to end up with a bunch of different parts that will not be compatible. You best solution would be to buy two new "matching" axles with electric brake/hub assemblies. You can specify the bolt pattern you desire. "Sell off" the odd newer axle on Craig's List, and move on.
As far as "split rims" are concerned, you need to go to a real TRUCK TIRE shop, they do split rim tires every day and will not even blink an eye when you roll it in the door. The local corner franchised tire store will give you fifty reasons why they are not allowed to work on them, they are not safe, because of liability, etc. It's all B.S., because they only pay five dollars an hour for a marginal tire changers, and not employ trained tire specialists They have been used for a hundred years on all kinds of vehicles, and like anything else involving your safety, it requires a knowledgeable tech to know how to mount tires on this style of rim. A good truck tire guy can break these rims down on the side of a highway, change a tire and tube in a matter of minutes with just a hammer and a couple of tire irons. They need to be re-inflated inside a tire cage.
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Apr 12, 2014 9:32:20 GMT -8
First off if he has the old actual two piece rims not the newer ones with the lock ring no one in there right mind would mess with them as they are dangerous even after they are inflated. I saw a gentlemen walking past one that blew apart and killed him instantly. If they are the three piece split rims they are safe if you have the proper training and once they are inflated they will not blow apart. As for the five lug wheels on the replacement axle they normally are a Ford pattern usually 4 1/2 on 5 pattern. I agree with John buy new axle and electric brake combinations rated for your load and you will be safer and better off in the long run.
|
|
|
Post by lichenvintage on Apr 12, 2014 18:12:43 GMT -8
Thanks for the advice, that's what I'll do.. thanks to all...
|
|
|
Post by chrisrusch on Jun 16, 2020 8:48:53 GMT -8
Hey Lichenvintage, so I have a 50s era Travelite trailer as well and would love to ask you a few questions if you had a moment. First, was there any identifier in the trailer as to what year it was made? And 2, have you made any significant changes to the electrical system? That seems to be the weak point for me. Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jun 16, 2020 10:42:08 GMT -8
This member has not been online since fall of 2014...
|
|