CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Mar 16, 2014 19:58:24 GMT -8
I got straight muratic acid and diluted it in a sprayer at the local gamers co-op. You may have to ask for it as the druggies have decided to us it to make meth. Got mine for under 5$ a gallon We get muratic acid at the local big box, we use it for the ph in our pool, comes in gallon containers. |
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Mar 16, 2014 21:09:02 GMT -8
Great info thanks
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wiartonwillie
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1953 McGuinness Silver Duke
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Post by wiartonwillie on Mar 19, 2014 14:20:26 GMT -8
I took 1 window up to my work today and tried to clean it. I used a scotch pad and mag wheel polish. It only took 5 minutes and it turned out very good. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 21, 2014 14:15:48 GMT -8
Wow you guys are all doing very well with the polishing. Shiny really is a great attribute to these old trailers. Shiny will make any paint job look good.
I use Clarity1 Acid wash. I get it at a place near here that deals in auto detailing supplies. It's a "fast acting hydrofluoric and sulfuric blend"... "Heavy Duty Acid Wheel Brightener" I use a 50/50 solution and never leave it on for more than 3 minutes. Remember that if you use a 8 or 10 inch wheel buffer like I use leave the glass in while polishing. It's much easier to control the piece as it can be ripped out of your hands in the blink of an eye. Speaking of which use a full face mask and heavy gloves. Have no loose clothing on as it can get caught up in the wheel and tear your arm off and then beat you a few times with it before you hit the ground.
It feels good that some of my videos are helping all of you. Thanks so much for watching. I don't know it all but I try to share my limited experiences.
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Mar 26, 2014 20:14:45 GMT -8
Mobletec.. Do you have any experiencce in using a dremel to clean the aluminum? It seems like the small size of it would be ideal and they come with all kinds of attachments and brushes etc.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 26, 2014 21:52:36 GMT -8
You need to have some experience in polishing aluminum window frames to really appreciate Larry's above wisdom.
He's 100% correct.
Leave the glass in the frame while your using the large buffing wheels. It's much safer for the part, and also for YOU.
Also, I go from the "Black Emory" bar, directly to a "Green" bar for a nice polished finish. Green is a special "aluminum polish" bar compound. It helps to pick up a couple of bench grinders at yard sales so you can have one dedicated to each polishing compound pad. Never mix compounds on the same buffing pad. If the surface is pitted, you need to sand it smooth "before" you even start the polishing steps. It's much cheaper and you have a better selection, to purchase your buffing materials from a store that only sells abrasives.
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CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Mar 27, 2014 3:12:05 GMT -8
You need to have some experience in polishing aluminum window frames to really appreciate Larry's above wisdom.
He's 100% correct.
Leave the glass in the frame while your using the large buffing wheels. It's much safer for the part, and also for YOU.
Also, I go from the "Black Emory" bar, directly to a "Green" bar for a nice polished finish. Green is a special "aluminum polish" bar compound. It helps to pick up a couple of bench grinders at yard sales so you can have one dedicated to each polishing compound pad. Never mix compounds on the same buffing pad. If the surface is pitted, you need to sand it smooth "before" you even start the polishing steps. It's much cheaper and you have a better selection, to purchase your buffing materials from a store that only sells abrasives.
John, Safe to say that is the only place you can get the "green" bar?
The tutorials I watched said to use white rouge, and it happened to come with the small buffing wheels I got at Harbor Freight. Didn't see green. It didn't tell me how to apply the rouge so I just held it against the wheel while rotating, was that correct?
I'm really nervous about sanding aluminum so I chose not to attempt on my first pieces, but I have a couple that could really use it, what kind of grit do you use?
What was nice about the Oxalic acid was, that although dangerous (needing gloves, breathing protection, etc.) it seemed to be very mild (depending on concentration, of course) to the metal. I left most of mine in overnight.
Also, one more thought to add, I have aluminum screens on my house, many of my windows have a residue from them that will not wash off. A hired window washer told me that they use muriatic acid to remove it (very carefully). Just thought I'd add that in case any campers might have that residue. I haven't tried it yet, but since I'm feeling a little more comfortable using these substances, will probably try it on a few this spring.
Ok, think I'm done, sorry to go on and on.....
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CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Mar 27, 2014 3:22:41 GMT -8
As far as the skin, does anyone have a method/materials tutorial?
On campers where the strip is bare aluminum, I assume you polish the stripe first, then tape, and paint? You must have to thoroughly clean off any polishes at edges prior to paint?
I saw an interesting rattle can paint at an auto store. It was colored but also clear, said it was used to paint on chrome. I liked the look, thinking about polishing the bottom half and using that.
A little concerned about even coverage on a product that is supposed to be translucent, any suggestions? Would it look odd to have an opaque paint (white) on the upper half?
Interested in all comments and suggestions.
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John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 575
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 27, 2014 8:08:09 GMT -8
As far as the skin, does anyone have a method/materials tutorial? On campers where the strip is bare aluminum, I assume you polish the stripe first, then tape, and paint? You must have to thoroughly clean off any polishes at edges prior to paint? I saw an interesting rattle can paint at an auto store. It was colored but also clear, said it was used to paint on chrome. I liked the look, thinking about polishing the bottom half and using that. A little concerned about even coverage on a product that is supposed to be translucent, any suggestions? Would it look odd to have an opaque paint (white) on the upper half? Interested in all comments and suggestions. I'm far from a "Pro Painter", but here's something that has helped me in spray painting. If you look at the surface "at 90 degrees" while painting you will just see the color, and it's hard to judge how much new paint is on the surface.
I'm right handed, so I place a light source (even the sun) to my right side. Then I move my head to the left and only look at the reflection on the surface while spraying. For me at least, it makes it much easier "to actually see" how much paint is on the surface and how even you have sprayed the coverage. You still need to keep the spray gun at 90 degrees to the surface, and move it straight across, not in arc's.
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John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 575
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Mar 27, 2014 8:52:14 GMT -8
You need to have some experience in polishing aluminum window frames to really appreciate Larry's above wisdom.
He's 100% correct.
Leave the glass in the frame while your using the large buffing wheels. It's much safer for the part, and also for YOU.
Also, I go from the "Black Emory" bar, directly to a "Green" bar for a nice polished finish. Green is a special "aluminum polish" bar compound. It helps to pick up a couple of bench grinders at yard sales so you can have one dedicated to each polishing compound pad. Never mix compounds on the same buffing pad. If the surface is pitted, you need to sand it smooth "before" you even start the polishing steps. It's much cheaper and you have a better selection, to purchase your buffing materials from a store that only sells abrasives.
John, Safe to say that is the only place you can get the "green" bar?
The tutorials I watched said to use white rouge, and it happened to come with the small buffing wheels I got at Harbor Freight. Didn't see green. It didn't tell me how to apply the rouge so I just held it against the wheel while rotating, was that correct?
I'm really nervous about sanding aluminum so I chose not to attempt on my first pieces, but I have a couple that could really use it, what kind of grit do you use?
What was nice about the Oxalic acid was, that although dangerous (needing gloves, breathing protection, etc.) it seemed to be very mild (depending on concentration, of course) to the metal. I left most of mine in overnight.
Also, one more thought to add, I have aluminum screens on my house, many of my windows have a residue from them that will not wash off. A hired window washer told me that they use muriatic acid to remove it (very carefully). Just thought I'd add that in case any campers might have that residue. I haven't tried it yet, but since I'm feeling a little more comfortable using these substances, will probably try it on a few this spring.
Ok, think I'm done, sorry to go on and on.....
My limited understanding on the different polishing grits is that the White Bar was formulated for hard metals, like stainless steel. You will not go wrong buying from a specialty Abrasives Store because they sell this stuff every day, they get feed back from their "Professional Polishers" everyday, and will give you expert advice. It has also been my experience they stock a much larger inventory selection, and prices are much cheaper because they buy and sell in quantity. Buy the "full bars" to save money. You also need to have a "hand held" star wheel to clean your pads of build up. The waffle style pads work best on a bench grinder because they do not get the "build up". Yellow waffle (stiffer) for Black Emory, and White (softer) waffle pads for your Green finish compound. Do not mix compounds on the same pad. Make sure you have metal worked the window or eyebrow smooth of all dents and divots, before the sanding and polishing starts.
"Sanding is Sanding".........it's hard work......it's dirty.......it all sucks! It really does not matter if your sanding steel, wood, or in our case aluminum. It's all pretty much the same, in that you want to make the larger scratches smaller and smaller, in steps. You cannot polish scratches and get a nice shine. The surface needs to have the oxidation removed first, by either chemicals or mechanically. The older the surface, and depending if it was subject to salt spray (snow belt, or ocean beach areas) will determine how much time it will take. I have spent "up to a day" per small window on this step alone! My record so far, is 40 hours of polishing and assembly on one "five pane" front early Hehr window assembly. The grit you start with will be determined by the severity of the pits. You just work your way up to sand paper with higher numbers (finer grits). If you can get it nice and smooth to 400 grit, it makes the buffing process go really fast. On smooth (none detailed) surfaces, I use a DA sander with a 180 grit disc to start, then move to hand sanding with 220/300 dry paper, and finish up with 320 and 400 wet paper. After you start buffing, you will find areas that you missed and need to go back several steps to sand out. It's all very time consuming if you want a nice job. It really gives you an appreciation of how much work it took when you walk past a very nice trailer at a vintage rally. Nice polished windows "make a vintage trailer".
One more thing, IT'S DIRTY WORK!
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