torval
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Post by torval on Mar 13, 2014 13:28:02 GMT -8
New user here. Found some interesting and helpful information here, and so figured I might as well create an account and ask my question.
My wife and I are camper-hunting, and we are going to (hopefully,) be going to look at a 1983 Fleetwood Prowler 25ft camper this weekend.
It appears to be in decent shape from the pictures, (as most do,) but is there anything in particular I should be looking for when I go to see it for the first time? I read the thread about rot, and I'll be sure to check for that, but I figured it couldn't hurt to get some more experienced camper-hunters opinions on it.
Thanks!
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soup
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Post by soup on Mar 13, 2014 13:53:20 GMT -8
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torval
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Post by torval on Mar 13, 2014 15:46:10 GMT -8
Read all of your links. Thank you so much for the information. Yep, I had planned on taking a ladder with me, and will check for CLEAN title. Also taking a propane tank, as he said that the two on it are empty, and I want to function-test that part of it. He did agree to run electric to it for me so that I could test everything else. Here is the listing, if anybody wanted to see it and maybe voice opinions. louisville.craigslist.org/rvs/4367258465.htmlThe only thing that concerns me, is when I asked about leaks. He said that it had one small leak that he either caulked or silicon'd up, and that he then "went over the whole roof with some sort of mobile home roof sealant." Is this a common process for older trailers? Kind of raised a red flag for me, but I guess we will see how it looks when we get there. Oh, and he said that two of the tires have a very slow leak; you can fill them, but they empty in a week or two. For the price, I can put new tires on it easily, and we only need to pull it about 30 minutes down the road when we get it. |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 13, 2014 17:54:30 GMT -8
It's common but it's not right. It's not the proper way to take care of leaks. It's what most people think will work cheap but it doesn't and it's not. The metal expands and contracts from the elements and then all that goop is stuck on half the surfaces and doing nothing but acting like little funnels for water to show it exactly where to go to do the most damage. Then you get to spend countless hours scraping the crud off...
I stay away from calked trailers. They will leak forever now.
OH! And welcome to the board...  |
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Post by vikx on Mar 13, 2014 20:23:59 GMT -8
Welcome to the board.
If you like this trailer and it will suit you size wise, it may be the one for you. However, Mobile is correct on the goop and caulk.
Being a 1983, 25 feet plus tandem axle, it is not exactly what vintage trailerites look for. It is doubtful that you will recoup money spent if you have to do repairs. I'm not seeing an air conditioner on the roof; if there is one and it works, that's a plus. At this price, ($2500) EVERYTHING should work.
Good luck!
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soup
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Post by soup on Mar 14, 2014 1:28:40 GMT -8
Don't forget to take a good flashlight and an ice pick too for the inspection. What Vikx said above ^ is correct about it not having the "WOW" value of a 50's or 60's canned ham camper and 83 is really borderline of actual vintage. However the unit looks to be in good condition for being around 30 years old. I do see it has a roof air conditioner and the ad mentions it's a newer AC unit. If it has an electric heater built into the AC unit the value would be more. Be advised though, there will be no way of checking the total operation of the roof AC unit without 30 amp electrical service at his house. You may want to meet him at a camp ground or RV center close by where you could hook up to 30 amp service camper plug for AC check out. You can take a 30 amp camper plug to regular 110 "house plug" converter plug but that will only allow the blower to work slowly on the AC and not the cooling or heating function of the roof unit. The converter plug will allow you to check all the rest of the 110v functions though. Since the seller offered to hook up electric, maybe he has a generator or 30 amp service plug there at his house. Also here is the NADA listed value as long as I guessed correctly what options it has. Be advised too it looks to have had the 2 way fridge replaced with just a 110 volt only dorm fridge that might be a little small for such a large "family" unit. NADA lists value at a low retail of $2400 and an average retail price of $2900 as long as I guess correctly what options it has on it. See NADA Value here; www.nadaguides.com/RVs/1983/Prowler/M-25N/4051109/ValuesAlso since I live in this area, from my past experience the NADA "book" value may be up to 30% too high for this area of the country. I have never been able to sell anything around here for book value. That price is usually what a bank will loan you if you have excellent credit rating. The book price is usually what you want to insure it for replacement value but you may want to add a little to the price for replacement value insurance purposes. In my past experience the Prowler is a fairly decent brand of unit and they are usually sought after on resale. If you do due diligence on the inspection you might have some wiggle room on the price (especially sense they have replaced a $1000+ refrigerator with a $150 refrigerator). Since they are asking $2500 OBO (Or Best Offer), my gut feeling is even if everything is in excellent shape I think the your first offer would be at $1800 and probably will realize a final price of $2000 if you play your cards right when making the deal. I also sent you a message with my phone number. Log in here and hit the messages button under header at top of this page. Good Luck, Soup |
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 14, 2014 5:38:24 GMT -8
It is unfortunate that they went and did the whole roof-coating thing. As has been discussed here, once applied it requires constant maintenance to keep it working, otherwise it will eventually rot the whole roof. I have yet to understand why people think that coating the whole thing is necessary, when sheets of aluminum with auto-finish-quality paint would never leak through....
Definitely plan on new tires. If you can, carry a spare or two with you when you first tow it home...
One other thing I would mention. Even if your propane system checks out...i.e. the stove and oven light, furnace works, etc.... Get the whole system professionally checked for leaks before you camp with it. Safety first!
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Post by vikx on Mar 14, 2014 20:02:17 GMT -8
AND: if the Air Conditioner is not an RV unit on the roof, the value is less. Sort of like the RV fridge vs. a dorm fridge...
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soup
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Post by soup on Mar 15, 2014 3:29:53 GMT -8
Also, take a Phillips screw driver with you.
The ceilings look to have been recently painted that means their might be water damage in ceiling being hidden.
Take the Phillips screwdriver and go to one or both of the roof vents. Remove the crank handle and the 4 screws holding the vent trim ring to ceiling. Remove screen. Look up above the painted ceiling around the exposed roof vent for water damage. Also check to see if the actual side walls of the body of the vent are plastic or metal. If they are made of plastic, check for cracks in sides of vent wall/flange and also check for leaks where the rivets are where the crank frame meets the side of the vent body. All this can only be seen if the vent trim ring, handle and screen are removed from the interior side of the roof vents.
Also check kitchen side walls behind sink, they look to have been recently painted too.
Also where the exterior running lights have lenses missing (see back rear curb/passenger side) If the lenses are missing those running lights will leak water too.
There also looks to be something going on in the back upper corner of the side wall next to roof line on the street/driver side too. (when standing on street/driver side it's in the upper right rear corner next to roof line)
Check in all cabinets for water damage, people often forget to paint there. Especially bottom cabinets under kitchen and bathroom sinks.
Main leak points for camper is extreme bottom 4 corners next to floor, pipes under sinks, cabinet where water pump is hidden and bottom corners of windows.
It also looks like it has been set up for load leveling hitch (see hooks on frame rails behind gas tank rack on both sides) and possible anti sway bar. Have them throw in the self leveling hitch, bars/chains and sway bar too on the deal. The self leveling hitch etc. new cost $600-$800 for whole set up. This size of camper should not be towed without using them.
Have fun this morning and control the seller, don't let him/her run the show!
You are the one in control.
soup
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torval
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Post by torval on Mar 15, 2014 12:20:08 GMT -8
The Prowler was absolute junk, looked far worse inside and out than the pictures did. We looked around at some others throughout the day though, and we found one that is considerably newer, (far outside of the realm of "vintage," so I'll leave the details out,) and I do believe that it will be making its way home to us here before too long. Thank you all for your advice and assistance. I do appreciate it.  |
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 15, 2014 14:22:56 GMT -8
Keep us posted here. You know the definition of "vintage" is rather subjective. Sorry that it did not work out, but remember that each one you look at is more experience as to what you should look for. I have a feeling that no matter how "new" your find may be, that you will be looking at the older "vintage" ones anyway. It is quite addictive...
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Post by vikx on Mar 15, 2014 22:01:30 GMT -8
Congrats Torval and please do stay. 10 is right, you will have a vintage one someday...
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