skipnwendy
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Post by skipnwendy on Mar 11, 2014 3:47:54 GMT -8
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Mar 11, 2014 8:14:29 GMT -8
Thanks for sharing this.. I appreciate seeing how the framing is done. I have a soft front corner on my trailer that has separated from the frame and needs a rebuild. Seeing the badic framing takes some of the mystery out of it.
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Post by vikx on Mar 11, 2014 21:48:11 GMT -8
SkipnWendy, to post photos "here" rather than a link, go to your photobucket photo. Click on the little wheel at the top, then links. When you see IMG, click and you will see a yellow "copied" stripe. PASTE in your post and the photo will show. Like this: Hope this helps.
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skipnwendy
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Post by skipnwendy on Mar 12, 2014 3:09:52 GMT -8
Hey Vikx I thought that is what I did but I went back in there and I guess I did "direct" instead of the bottom "img"
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skipnwendy
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Post by skipnwendy on Mar 12, 2014 3:14:38 GMT -8
Ladywendolyn, I felt the same way, I looked for structural pictures to see what others got into before I started mine so I would have an idea what I was getting into and it sure helped so I wanted to share what I found in mine for others who wish to fix their campers themselves, It is certainly a lot of work but now the camper is ready for years of camping trips
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farmographer
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Post by farmographer on Mar 15, 2014 5:20:25 GMT -8
I have also discovered rot in the front corners of my '68 airflyte and I'm attempting to pull off the paneling to repair from the inside. I have unscrewed the dinette bench supports, but I'm unsure how to take out the dinette entirely. It appears to have been stapled in to place from the outside? Any recommendations on how to take them out (so I can get the front wall panel out - just the piece under the window)? Or is there another way I should be doing this?
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Post by vikx on Mar 15, 2014 22:46:44 GMT -8
Hi Farmographer, welcome.
Most of the time, the cabinets and dinettes are either screwed or nailed from the outside. They can be a bear to remove.
I highly recommend you pull the front and rear skins up and remove at least the lower side skins. I think you will find more rot than you expect and it's so much easier to repair from the outside in. Once the skins are pulled, you will see what is anchoring the dinettes in place.
It seems to be more work to do it our way, but we've been there, done that... I'm sure others will chime in.
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skipnwendy
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Post by skipnwendy on Mar 16, 2014 5:19:41 GMT -8
If at all possible remove the outer lower skin, I found mine to be built from the "inside out" which made it 2 times harder to rebuild from the inside and at times had me scratching my head thinking it couldn't be done the way I did it and probably shouldn't have been done the way I did it, Very hard to do it the opposite way it went together.
I have a few more things to do to it and at that time I will pull the skins so life/work isn't so hard and I know the skins are refastened correctly.
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farmographer
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Post by farmographer on Mar 16, 2014 10:38:19 GMT -8
k, so read these responses after replying to my other "intro" thread. I I looked at these pictures that Ross posted a link to ... the ones at the bottom where he's propping the skin up with wood - is that what I should do? Feeling really nervous. Hold my hand (a bit). presumably the camper should be under cover before removing the skin? (although it doesn't look like Ross did that) And there's a drill bit to use to unscrew the skin? What is the bit called?
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skipnwendy
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Post by skipnwendy on Mar 19, 2014 2:58:53 GMT -8
I saw where the guy replied on your intro and suggested that tool, I have one of those tools and it is the bomb! I got mine at lowe's, Not shure which screws are in yours to be able to suggest a tool for that. Today I take mine for a high school reunion camp trip
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Post by bigbill on Mar 19, 2014 5:20:34 GMT -8
A Drill Bit to unscrew the siding screws? Take a sample screw to your local hardware store and they should be able to help you. Most trailers will either use clutch head, phillips or hex screws. If your unit has hex head screws I have found that if you take the proper sized socket and grind the end of it flat eliminating the tapered/rounded edge that is on them it gives you more griping area allowing you to remove most of the rusted screws. Buy a 1/4 adapter to mount the socket on your cordless drill to turn the socket. Using a drill mounted socket will usually be more successful than trying to take them out by hand because most people can hold the drill straighter. We tend to pull the socket sideways when turning with a ratchet causing it to slip off the screw.
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skipnwendy
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Post by skipnwendy on Mar 20, 2014 5:07:54 GMT -8
Ours has the hex head screws and I had a few rusted ones I couldn't get out and will use your tip in grinding the bit. Here we are waiting for the others to pull in for the reunion
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 21, 2014 10:35:02 GMT -8
The ceiling looks fantastic!
If you have to remove, from the inside, a cabinet that was attached from the outside, you can slide your sawzall blade, or a hacksaw blade in a handle, between the wall and the cabinet to cut the crews. I did that removing the bunks from mine. It can be tricky to avoid collateral wood damage, if you plan to re-use the cabinet, but if you take it slow and gentle you can do it.
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skipnwendy
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Post by skipnwendy on Mar 26, 2014 4:04:19 GMT -8
Thanks Cowcharge! We had a great week in the camper and all went fine with the front end remodel
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farmographer
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Post by farmographer on Mar 27, 2014 6:25:09 GMT -8
So cool! I'm glad everything went smoothly. We're still waiting for snow to melt and temps to be consistently above zero!
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