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Post by vikx on Jul 14, 2014 21:12:22 GMT -8
No sealant, no goop... LOL.
Thank you for asking. Your roof should not need a thing. Of course at the edges, you can dab the staples and any cuts with Gutter Seal before the putty/J rail. If there is a vent or Fantastic Fan in addition to the A/C, it should be sealed with Dicor self leveling lap sealant. Takes a caulk tube to do one vent. It's removable in case repairs are necessary but a pain in the butt.
The A/C comes with a rubber gasket. It is placed on the 14 x 14 hole and the top unit is lowered onto the gasket. You can see from underneath, make sure it's square with the hole. There are 4 bolts in the upper unit and a bracket fits on them. As the nuts are tightened, it squeezes the gasket tight to the roof and prevents leaks. No other sealant is needed. Also, do not over tighten. Just super snug, but leave a bit of lee way. You'll be taking a turn or two on the bolts now and then... The plenum goes on last (electrical, outlets and controls).
It's a little hard to describe. Feel free to ask more questions. I may move this. It would be nice to have it's own thread, so folks with air conditioners would get the info...
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jul 28, 2014 15:53:38 GMT -8
I just re-read this thread. I didn't mean to sound so adamant, lol. Just bein' a grumpy ol' yank.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Sept 11, 2014 6:26:03 GMT -8
I've had a Di-Cor Lap Sealant experience. I used it on my vent and then it rained before it had time to cure; rain, like while I was doing it. I left it for several months and it did not leak but I was uneasy about the fact it had been rained on it before curing, so I removed it and did it again. It actually wasn't difficult to remove, perhaps because it didn't cure properly? It lifted up in a rubbery strip with some bubble gum-like residue.
My biggest problem with the lap sealant was squeezing it out of the caulking gun. I have little woman hands, (contrary to popular belief) and it took both hands and all my might to squeeze it out while trying to keep my balance and calm my fear of heights. The second go round, I cut the end bigger so it was a little easier but still it was a tough job for me.
Also, as Vikx so accurately stated, it does take an entire tube to seal one vent.
Ordering it online, with shipping, it cost about $13, so it's worth it to get it right the first time.
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Post by vikx on Sept 11, 2014 21:12:39 GMT -8
Dicor can be touched up because it sticks to itself. It also should flow readily out of the tube. If it takes a lot of strength to operate the caulking gun, it's probably been on the shelf too long...
I've also seen Dicor peel when it shouldn't have; on a brand new toy hauler. Perhaps it was too wet/damp at the factory when applied.
One reason for using Dicor around the vent is that it IS removable if repairs are needed.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Sept 12, 2014 3:23:22 GMT -8
I wondered about the shelf life, too but I think the problem is mostly me. I've struggled with the caulking gun on other projects. My hand barely reaches around the trigger. I have a new tube and one more little vent to caulk so we'll see how it goes next time.
Oh, and the fumes were breathtaking, even outdoors.
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Post by bigbill on Sept 12, 2014 5:41:33 GMT -8
SusieQ have you ever considered a battery powered caulking gun? Just a thought.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Sept 12, 2014 8:35:05 GMT -8
SusieQ have you ever considered a battery powered caulking gun? Just a thought. I didn't even know there was such a thing. But if I do this again I will look into it. |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 14, 2014 12:27:03 GMT -8
LOL, For me.....I like the fumes! I'm the guy walking around the Nitro Pits at the drag races smelling the Nitromenthane Fumes, Eyes Burning, and the Tears are a flowing!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 14, 2014 19:55:02 GMT -8
LOL, I like the smell of jet fuel and shellac. Not at the same time though.
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soup
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Post by soup on Sept 15, 2014 23:43:30 GMT -8
I've had a Di-Cor Lap Sealant experience. I used it on my vent and then it rained before it had time to cure; rain, like while I was doing it. I left it for several months and it did not leak but I was uneasy about the fact it had been rained on it before curing, so I removed it and did it again. It actually wasn't difficult to remove, perhaps because it didn't cure properly? It lifted up in a rubbery strip with some bubble gum-like residue. My biggest problem with the lap sealant was squeezing it out of the caulking gun. I have little woman hands, (contrary to popular belief) and it took both hands and all my might to squeeze it out while trying to keep my balance and calm my fear of heights. The second go round, I cut the end bigger so it was a little easier but still it was a tough job for me. Also, as Vikx so accurately stated, it does take an entire tube to seal one vent. Ordering it online, with shipping, it cost about $13, so it's worth it to get it right the first time. Leave the tube you're about to use in the sun a while right before using it and it will be easier to flow out of the tube. In the cold mid-west lakes region, where I live if doing in early spring or late fall when it's cold out, I usually leave it on a furnace duct in my house to get hot before I use it. In the past, at remote locations in the cold at campgrounds, I had even built a small wooden box to hold 3-4 tubes flat with a light bulb fixture inside the box to heat the tubes before using them. Flows out like hot pudding with hardly any effort on the caulk gun.
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lalaland
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Post by lalaland on Oct 1, 2014 13:01:40 GMT -8
warming it up before you use it is a great tip! would have never thought of it - I also find hand strength is not the best and find caulk guns challenging.
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Oct 6, 2014 16:32:04 GMT -8
I'm going to be the "test case" with respect to "Eternabond" tape. I'll let you know when & if it fails.
By removing all the windows and trim on my trailer, I was able to lift & peek under the skin pretty much everywhere. I removed and re- putty taped EVERYTHING, windows, J-rails, awning rails, lights, water inlet, etc. Dicor on roof vent, replaced every screw with stainless, with gutter seal under each screw. Neatly applied gutter seal over all trimmed putty tape. I determined that there were only a few places with rot, and I was able to address them without removing the roof. Although the screw-holes in the roof were a bad thing, they were not the "kiss of death".
I was able to completely remove all of the goop, glop, and slop right down to clean, bare aluminum and my (somewhat lumpy) roof is essentially as watertight as a new one, except that I have the stupid little holes at each rafter. They are from #8 screws. The "Eternabond" is 2" and 4" wide....there is NO WAY that this will leak until the tape actually fails. I used white "Eternabond" and am going to paint the roof white as well.
Somewhere there was a thread from a guy who commented that only a ten foot tall gorilla would be able to see the roof of his trailer, I have to agree with him. Sometimes a compromise between the "ideal and correct" way to do something is OK! Perhaps, when-and if -the roof starts to leak in a few years I will replace it...but I'm guessing that since I will be in my mid sixties by then....I'll buy MORE "Eternabond" tape!
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Oct 6, 2014 16:47:55 GMT -8
Please tell me how you gutter sealed neatly. Just curious.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 6, 2014 18:20:33 GMT -8
Nothing here is set in stone. We only offer our experiences to those who have not done this before to use as a baseline or starting point. I have used Eternabond tape on newer trailers and it does work. That stuff is about the stickiest thing I have ever worked with and when used properly can be a real life saver. When economics or lack of time dictate, we must use what we have or what we can get a hold of. It'a all a matter of balance.
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Post by vikx on Oct 6, 2014 22:42:58 GMT -8
I Gutter Seal *neatly* by using paint thinner. You can smooth with a wetted finger and remove excess as well. It's not perfect but clear is hard to see. I just did a tiny Hehr window tonight that the PO annihilated. Looks almost OK.
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