Rain Dancer
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1966 Shasta
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Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 6, 2014 18:32:05 GMT -8
Does anyone know a good source for buying drip edge. I have a 1966 Shasta; the PO painted over the drip edge which really needs to be replaced after I decide about a paint job. Hopefully new drip edge will be an easy job. I also think I will replace the baby moons. I saw some on line at Hubcap Mikes; however, mine are not completely curved; they have sort of a peak in the center. Any other resources? Thanks.  |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Mar 6, 2014 19:07:46 GMT -8
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Rain Dancer
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Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 7, 2014 8:59:37 GMT -8
Thanks!
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1958 Shasta "Penny"
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1958 Shasta Airflyte 16
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Post by 1958 Shasta "Penny" on Mar 7, 2014 9:06:14 GMT -8
Another option is to call a local RV trailer supply store. Most can order them for you, ask for a J-rail or channel rail they can look it up in their catalog. Can be a bit cheaper than having to pay for VTS's postage for those.
HTH!
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Rain Dancer
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Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 8, 2014 14:44:18 GMT -8
Yes, shipping and handling can really add up. The baby moons have a SH fee of $11 at VTS and $14 at Hubcap Mikes. The reviews at VTS say they are flimsy but there are no reviews for the caps at Hubcap Mikes. Decisions, decisions.
Ok, what does HTH mean? Hit the highway?? :-)
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kathleenc
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Post by kathleenc on Mar 8, 2014 15:22:14 GMT -8
Hope That Helps. HTH!
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Post by vikx on Mar 9, 2014 22:35:19 GMT -8
Old J rail can be stripped and straightened. It's not necessary to replace. Use wide jawed sheet metal pliers/vise grips, wood blocks and a rubber hammer...
Our hub caps from VTS "barely" fit their new wheels. Both have a dent from trying to gently pound them onto the wheel. They really look great on the wheels tho.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 10, 2014 8:16:01 GMT -8
I spent the weekend at a drag race, with a large swap meet. I made several trips around the swap meet looking for a nice pair of 8" clip diameter hub caps, without any success. I live in an area close to many specialty auto business's (Hubcap Mike's is local to me) and have found no caps that met my requirements. They are all "really thin, cheaply made imported copies". I found "some nice thick" reproduction "no name, baby moon" caps at a local company, for a 49 to 51 Chevy, but they were $160 per set of four!
Getting old original caps re-chromed would be a last choice option. Your going to pay over $100 "per cap" for chrome in most shops.
I think you just need to look at your local car swap meets and you will find what you need. Just take your time, and carry a tape measure with you.
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Rain Dancer
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1966 Shasta
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Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 10, 2014 9:42:23 GMT -8
Thanks all for your input. I think I am going to keep my original baby moons; clean them up and spray paint them (and the rims) a color. They just don't make things like they used to. And I can always keep my eye out for replacements.
I spent quite a bit of time this weekend buffing the screen door and that was a job so regarding the J rail (depending on the price) I will just get new material. I can't imagine trying to clean the old one up; it's loaded with paint and caulking material.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 10, 2014 13:03:24 GMT -8
"J" rail, or drip rail (same thing, different name), is available to your local RV store. They might need to special order it for you. The reason that you want to source it locally is the very high cost of shipping, the VTS 8' "shipping tube" charge, the damage shipping will do to the new aluminum rail, and the fact that you want to use it in the original 16' long sections for the minimum of joints/seams. You might also consider ordering the awning (rope rail) rail at the same time if your replacing the trim. It usually takes at least three 16 foot sections depending on the awning rail to do a small trailer.
The only hard part is finding a local RV store that wants to work with you today.
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 11, 2014 18:24:46 GMT -8
Might want to watch this...
And this...
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Rain Dancer
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Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 12, 2014 13:56:22 GMT -8
Thanks Mobiletec. You have some great videos out there. I watched one on stripping aluminum window frames as well as the ones in this thread. So now I am thinking about stripping the J Rail as you had suggested. You mentioned that after you strip the metal the next step is an acid bath. Can you direct me to the video on that as well as the polishing step. I also heard you mention that you can find people to strip your whole trailer for a couple of hundred dollars. Can you tell me where? Where are you located? I am in Austin, TX.
Thanks for all your help.
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Rain Dancer
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Post by Rain Dancer on Mar 12, 2014 13:59:02 GMT -8
My mistake vikx recommended stripping. Vikx you said:
"Old J rail can be stripped and straightened. It's not necessary to replace. Use wide jawed sheet metal pliers/vise grips, wood blocks and a rubber hammer..."
So are you saying I have to remove the J rail. Can I do the job while it's on the trailer?
Thanks,
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 12, 2014 15:31:19 GMT -8
The acid bath is an acid you can buy by the gallon at an auto detailing supply place. Clarity is what I use. It's made for cleaning mag wheels. $15 a gallon. I mix it 50/50 with water but then again I'm usually in a hurry LOL.
Wear protective everything. Just like in the windows vids. Spray it on, let it set for a few minutes and then hose it off real good. Not on your yard....  |
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Post by vikx on Mar 12, 2014 22:34:38 GMT -8
Yes, remove the J rail. You have to re-putty anyway, it's mandatory. The edges are the main LEAK of most trailers....
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