topper
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Post by topper on Mar 2, 2014 13:32:18 GMT -8
I own a 1962 Shasta Airflyte and would like to replace the wheels and tires with a factory correct size wheel and tire combination. I would, however, like to have a nice set of body color painted wheels, whitewall tires, baby moons and beauty rings on the combo. If anyone out there has something similar to this, could you please post photos along with the specs associated with what you have (e.g. tire size, tire manufacturer, where you got the wheels, beauty rings, ect.)
I have used the search function and found many members with the above. I have reached out to them via PM, but have not received very many responses. Anything your willing to share would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Topper |
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Post by vikx on Mar 2, 2014 22:46:36 GMT -8
Welcome Topper!
I haven't exact sizes for you but please be aware of the "tightness" of vintage trailer wheel wells. The tires need to fit each individual trailer. Sometimes they need to be flattened to just clear the hub and mount on the trailer.
To fit my last build, I went to Les Schwab and talked to their resident hot rod expert. He lent me wheels and tires to try until we came up with the correct size. I bought bias ply Cokers; quite narrow by today's standards. Bias have strong side walls.
One of our 57 Shasta 1500s has 205/75R/15s and they fit well but still need to be flat to clear the hub. The other has low profile tires that must be replaced; the trailer is almost sitting on the ground. On the 57 Deluxe I had, the tires were too big; they had less than an inch of clearance to the top of the wheel well cover. Needless to say, there were rub marks on the underside...
So, the answer is every trailer is different. The springs may have less arch, wheels bigger or smaller and tires bias or radial. It's possible that Shasta may have used different sized wheel wells. Hopefully, other members will chime in with the wheel/tires on there Airflytes so you can come up with a good average.
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Post by bigbill on Mar 3, 2014 7:34:28 GMT -8
With the trailer sitting on the tires measure the clearance between the frame and the point on the axle/ubolts that would hit on a severe bump add one inch to that figure. Now measure from the top of the tire to the top of the wheel well. the difference between these two measurements will tell you how much larger or smaller you can (or have to) go on your total tire diameter. Next measure the total diameter of your existing tire. Finally remove the tire and set the frame on a jack stand allowing the axle to hang free now measure the smallest gap between the hub/ brake drum and the edge of the wheel opening. this will give you the max width tire that will fit while inflated. With this information any good tire shop should be able to help you select the proper size tire and wheel you will need. I would go with the largest diameter tire/ wheel combination that will fit with in reason, this will increase the weight carrying capacity plus allow the slowest rotational speed, which will increase tire and bearing life. I personally like my tire width to be at least an inch smaller than the gap between the hub/drum and the edge of the wheel opening.
If you are buying new wheels with the tire removed and the axle on jack stands lay a straight edge across the wheel mounting surface and measure to the suspension or inside of wheel well which ever is closest for what they call back spacing then measure from the wheel mounting surface to the back side of the outter wheel well. Make sure you measure the closest point/ narrowest gap. These measurement will allow them to select the proper wheel with the right back spacing and width that you need.
I hope you are not totally confused by now.
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Post by bigbill on Mar 3, 2014 8:12:47 GMT -8
another thing I ran across a while back was a gentleman was watching me put the wheels back on his trailer after a brake service and he was amazed that I could installed the wheel with air in the tire. I showed him he had all kind of clearance for it to slide in the opening and he said not when he does it. So I ask him to tell me in exact detail how he changed a tire. He started out by saying that he placed the jack under the axle then jacked the trailer up, removed the hub cap loosened the lug nuts sometimes letting the jack back down to break them loose then jacking trailer back up taking nuts off but then if tire wasn't flat he couldn't get it off. I laughed then suggested that he look to see where I had the trailer supported on the frame right behind the spring allowing the axle to drop down several inches giving much more clearance. He then laughed and said he had never thought of that he just always left it sitting on the axle.
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azshastanut
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1957 Kenskill 16T
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Post by azshastanut on Mar 3, 2014 8:47:28 GMT -8
I have original wheels on my "59" and "61" Airflyte's. The wheels are stock Ford car wheels and were used from about 1948 to 1956. Truck wheels are not the same size, so be careful. Original rims are hard to find because they are used by "street rod affecienados". They are steel stamped with the Ford oval and the size, 15x5, 5 lug 4 1/2" bolt pattern. I have seen some stamped Kelsey Hayes. They have 3 nubs to hold the hub cap. I have 205/75/15S tires on them. Beauty rings and hub caps are available thru vintage car/street rod parts suppliers.
The issue of removing wheels may be a result of the jacking point you are using. You must place your jack under the frame to allow the axle to drop down fully. If you place your jack under the axle you will not be able to get the wheel/tire out of the wheel well. I have never experienced difficulty removing and reinstalling.
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zippidydoda
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1964 Shasta SCS
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Post by zippidydoda on Mar 24, 2014 18:37:48 GMT -8
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theresa
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from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
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Post by theresa on Aug 15, 2016 10:28:00 GMT -8
I have original wheels on my "59" and "61" Airflyte's. The wheels are stock Ford car wheels and were used from about 1948 to 1956. Truck wheels are not the same size, so be careful. Original rims are hard to find because they are used by "street rod affecienados". They are steel stamped with the Ford oval and the size, 15x5, 5 lug 4 1/2" bolt pattern. I have seen some stamped Kelsey Hayes. They have 3 nubs to hold the hub cap. I have 205/75/15S tires on them. Beauty rings and hub caps are available thru vintage car/street rod parts suppliers. The issue of removing wheels may be a result of the jacking point you are using. You must place your jack under the frame to allow the axle to drop down fully. If you place your jack under the axle you will not be able to get the wheel/tire out of the wheel well. I have never experienced difficulty removing and reinstalling. If you get a chance, would you mind taking a photo of these for me? I'd like to see what the originals looked like.  THANKS! |
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azshastanut
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1957 Kenskill 16T
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Post by azshastanut on Aug 15, 2016 14:11:41 GMT -8
I don't have any surplus wheels at this time, but I will try to get a photo for you. Here is some additional information. The hubs are standard Ford 5x4 1/2 (5 lug 4 1/2 inch diameter hole pattern)and the replacement grease seals are available on line at about $12.00 each. The replacement is SKF 16811. If you purchase from an auto parts or trailer supply you will pay about double. If you send me a personal message with your phone number I can take a few pictures and text them to you this afternoon.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Aug 15, 2016 15:22:39 GMT -8
I bought these off Craigslist they are from a murcury comet, they look the exact same is my Shasta compact, they only differance between yours are the size, mine are 13", but you get the idea of what they look like now.  |
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decodan
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1963 Shasta Astrodome
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Post by decodan on Sept 21, 2016 17:32:07 GMT -8
I have a few 13" four bolt wheels. What is the bolt circle that fits the trailers using 13" wheels. My astrodome uses 15" with a Ford, 5 on 4-1/2" circle.
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THANKS!
