Flat-Tire
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1965 Da-Vid
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Post by Flat-Tire on Feb 26, 2014 17:17:05 GMT -8
Hello, in the following 2 pictures, the ball clamp does not seem to rest where I would like it to: in it's intended holes. The ball is secure even though the cover is not fully down. The ball is tighter if I push the cover all the way down, it loosens up if I allow the lever's locking pins to find their home. I would like the cover to be fully down while the release lever is fully engaged. I can't see any bent metal or mis adjusted parts except the spring on the top.   Any suggestions? I hate to replace the complete unit. Thanks |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Feb 26, 2014 18:45:26 GMT -8
Although I 'get' what you are asking, and really can't suggest how to adjust the latch, the actual engagement with the hitch ball is not compromised. The hole to the rear of the "slide" (shows in the second photo) is designed that you can lock it with a Master Lock and keep the slide from moving rearward, thus locking it on the ball. The lever really does not matter in that case.
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 26, 2014 18:48:59 GMT -8
Your ball may be the wrong size...
It is MOST IMPORTANT that the latch is all the way down in the closed position before you tow. And you should lock that using the hole provided with either a bolt and cotter key or a key lock as TEN says. That thing locks the ball to the hitch so that when you hit bumps it doesn't jump up and off the ball. |
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Post by universalexports on Feb 26, 2014 19:14:42 GMT -8
mobiltec is spot on.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 26, 2014 20:10:54 GMT -8
I would agree that the ball size might be incorrect. That coupler bar needs to drop all the way down to the lip, and the handle pins engage into the coupler.
"Every time" I connect a trailer, I follow the following procedure.
Lube the ball with some grease.
Drop the coupler down over the ball, and latch the coupler.
Roll the trailer "forward and backward" to make sure the coupler is fully engaged with the ball.
Then "screw the trailer jack down until it make the tow vehicle rise. If you can raise the tow vehicle a couple of inches with a connected trailer, IT'S CONNECTED. Then secure the jack.
Then make sure that you put a lock, quick pin, a bolt/nut, or something substantial through the safety hole provided.
Attached your safety chains and light plug.
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Post by vikx on Feb 26, 2014 22:38:42 GMT -8
"Most" of my couplers like this take a 2" ball. Test to see what yours is: 1 7/8 or 2 inch. It won't be 2 5/16...
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soup
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Post by soup on Feb 27, 2014 2:25:58 GMT -8
I have had experience with this several times.
Same as what "TEN" states above^ and all the other posts above also. See also complete hitching list above^ from John Palmer too. Very complete, Thanks John P!
Like stated above should be 2" ball. If the 2" ball doesn't go into coupler with the wrap collar in open "up" position, then you should be at a 1 7/8" ball.
As long as it appears as the first pic above (wrap around collar all the way down) and there is a pin or master lock put through the hole behind that wrap around collar it's cool. It matters not that top lever is all the way in the slots. It does matter VERY much you put something through that hole that is almost as big around as that hole. Just above and to the left of that hole it has the word "LOCK" with an arrow pointing to that hole embossed (stamped) into the metal of the frame rail.
The bigger the pin in that hole the better due to it holding the collar all the way forward to lock onto the ball.
Here's how to test. Once proper ball size is installed you can engage the hitch as in first pic, install bolt, pin or lock through hole. Then jack up the trailer with tongue jack or floor jack if you are missing the tongue jack. If it lifts tow vehicle's rear end with the trailer frame rail, hitch is engaged.
There is a way to adjust for the lift lever on top to rest into the slots but usually too rusty for it to adjust. If you are really ocd like me, visit your local RV center with the trailer and your tow vehicle and let them check it out for adjustment, but for heavens sake use a bolt, pin or lock in that hole behind collar as big around as you can fit through the hole while the front wrap around collar is all the way down. Also test with jack before going to RV center for top lever adjustment.
I've seen more hitches like in the first pic than having the lifter lever seated into the slots like in pic 2 when towing.
Your hitch actually looks like it is very good condition and has had very little rust in the course of it's life.
As stated above too, DO NOT TOW EVER WITHOUT SAFETY CHAINS!!
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