lakewoodgirl
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1954 Lakewood
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Post by lakewoodgirl on Jun 6, 2014 19:42:38 GMT -8
Oh! And a good ol' fashion paper map just in case you have to take back roads all the way home Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 17, 2014 21:31:43 GMT -8
A title application form with circles around the couple parts they need to complete. In Texas you can't just stroll in with a signed title, they will stroll you right out with a blank title app form that the seller needs to sign too. A total load of bunk if you ask me but it is what it is. This is especially important when it is a long drive and the seller probably has no interest in seeing you again without money in your hand.
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kathleenc
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Post by kathleenc on Jun 18, 2014 6:45:38 GMT -8
Thomas - I am happy to report that I proved you wrong this morning.  But I did pick a less "cosmopolitan" office to visit - and had no issues at all. The seller had given me a title, signed by PO, with no dates or notary and did not even have THEIR name on it, just the owner previous to them - from Kansas. The DMV office did not blink an eye, just had me sign in various places, took my money and sent me on my way. Northeast Tarrant county tax office on Harwood Road in Bedford. Sooo glad I didn't have to either lie about it or drive to Kansas and try to find the previous owner!
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soup
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"I hate cold Soup"
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Post by soup on Jun 18, 2014 14:22:14 GMT -8
Lucky. I could have never gotten away with that!
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kathleenc
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Post by kathleenc on Jun 18, 2014 16:13:00 GMT -8
One time I took my title paperwork to an office in a major city- and they sent me away. Said the vin was wrong because it was only 5 characters. Seriously! I could not convince them otherwise.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2014 20:17:47 GMT -8
I have proven myself wrong too. MY '74 Prowler came with a clear title in the previous owners name. The problem is that he dated it fifteen years ago when he signed the back. The lady told me *in my town of 1300 people) that she let it go because of this. That next time I came in with my mom's camper and a perfect signed title, she sent me packing for a signed form.
So you might just get lucky, just don't bet on it and get the seller to sign the form!
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 18, 2014 5:39:41 GMT -8
Hi,
Grease is on the list, but most folks would probably assume that it's for regreasing the wheel bearings. It is, but also for slathering it on the coupler. I bought my trailer after it sat for 6 years in a large grassy area. It sat years before that somewhere else, so it had few tows in many years. The coupler was dry as a bone with surface rust. I srayed some WD 40 in there at the sellers location so the locking pin could move. Grease would have been better.
When i got it home, I had a dickens of a time disconnecting the ball out of the coupler even though I had put ball grease on the ball before leaving with the trailer. Just yesterday when I had to move it again to license it, I greased underneath and any openings I could find. The locking pin started to move freely and twist as it should.
Cheers
Rod
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coloradocamper
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1956 Terry Trailer
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Post by coloradocamper on Aug 13, 2015 9:46:35 GMT -8
I bought an electric adapter that plugs in to my hitch wiring, it has 4-prong and 5-prong outlets and enabled me to bring home a 1956 trailer (4 prong) with the rear lights functioning. I have been grateful to have that adapter several times since then, and I think it was an $8 investment...
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Monabones
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1966 Aristocrat Land Commander
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Post by Monabones on Aug 13, 2015 11:23:25 GMT -8
If the trailer has a spare tire mounted to the rear bumper.....check that for stability and rust. My Winnie had the tire mounted to a thin wall sewer hose Bumper. Very rusty and weak. When I checked the tire mount it swayed way to much due to deterioration of the metal. Best to remove the tire and mount. Don't want it to fall off while towing.
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goshawks
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working on the trotwood when not camping
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Post by goshawks on Jan 29, 2016 15:11:48 GMT -8
I always carry cardboard. If any windows are even slightly cracked I cut cardboard to fit window and frame and duct-tape everything. GOOD! Even if not cracked or broken it's always better to secure windows and for that matter any outside doors with good tape... It will save you wondering where that window or hatch door went along you 10-1000 mile haul. Along with the hassle/cost of replacing them.
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 29, 2016 16:49:33 GMT -8
I bought an electric adapter that plugs in to my hitch wiring, it has 4-prong and 5-prong outlets and enabled me to bring home a 1956 trailer (4 prong) with the rear lights functioning. I have been grateful to have that adapter several times since then, and I think it was an $8 investment... Hi Friends,
These adapters are great. Here is the one I have. www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Wiring-lights/Adapters/Multi-Tow-Adapter-7-to-6-4?id=726 You never know what you gonna tow, but it helps to ask before looking.
Also, here are some more items to add.
I recently picked up a 66 Scotsman on a cold and rainy day when the outside temp was in the high 40s. The trailer had been sitting for ten years in one spot. Who knows what the prior history of sitting was. First plan of attack was to remove the old trashed tire/rims and replace with ones from my other trailer which I had brought with me. When doing that, I went into the hubs. The grease was like molasses. Literally. The wheels barely moved. Old grease and cold temps do not make good pals. I cleaned up the bearings as best I could and wiped out the old grease out of the hub with half a role of paper towels. Yep, those work great. The thicker the better. I dug into the pit of the hubs constantly removing the old grease by a gloved hand and a paper towel. I discovered yet another use for human fingers. I got most of the old grease out this way and then added new grease. Not optimum, but better than pulling the trailer without that clean up over 200 miles back home.
Take also a garbage bag(s) for all the junk you need to throw away if using paper towels and whatnot. Lumber for crossbracing and charged battery operated drill with screws. Hand saw or battery operated saw if having to block or brace. Let's not forget the tape measure and the staple of all carpenters - the pencil with pencil sharpener.
For those new, here is a the blocking thread for a How To Block. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/5335/blocking-framing-support-camper-trip This is extremely valuable.
Also, mount your new rims with hand tools. When I picked up the Scotsman, the PO was a tool junkie and insisted that I use his impact wrench. It helped with removal, but would later find out at my home, just a week ago, that it would be impossible to remove the wheels with hand tools. I even tried a breaker bar. Eventually, I had to use a borrowed impact wrench and some PB Blaster (add that to your list for stuck lug nuts). Moral of the story: Mount with hand tools, incase you have a flat on the way home. I would have been stuck with no means of tire removal - impossible while on the road - if I had experienced a flat.
Finally, bring some tape, bungie cords or long cable ties to more securely attach the temporary lights. One of mine fell off even though I was positive that the solid iron bumper made a good contact mount for the magnet on the temp lights. Now I know why that guy in the pick up honked at me back there (somewhere). 5 miles later when I stopped for gas, I discovered that I had been dragging one of my lights. The damage had been done and the light was broken and torn up. I can tell you all about friction.... I bungied the remaining light to the bumper and tied up the fallen one. I ended up driving home on the interstate with only one tail light and 2 hours of a 4 hour drive were in the darkness of night in pouring rain. Ask me if was relaxed on the way home, LOL.
One last thing, call ahead and have your honey hand you a nice cold one as you walk in the door. You just might need it, LOL.
Cheers,
Rod
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iowagal
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Post by iowagal on Sept 2, 2016 4:28:14 GMT -8
Where does one find those magnetic tail lights?
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Post by bigbill on Sept 2, 2016 5:00:46 GMT -8
Harbor Freight
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iowagal
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Post by iowagal on Sept 2, 2016 6:05:26 GMT -8
What do you stick the magnetic lights to if your camper is all aluminum? (Forgive me if this is a dumb question.)
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theresa
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from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
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Post by theresa on Sept 2, 2016 6:32:55 GMT -8
What do you stick the magnetic lights to if your camper is all aluminum? (Forgive me if this is a dumb question.) The metal bumper.
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