soup
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Post by soup on Feb 21, 2014 17:38:57 GMT -8
Thought this deserved it's own thread sense I know I have typed this out more than once in the past couple of years. Learn from my picks. (See Avitar< at left LOL) Post additional items as needed! Back by popular demand; FYI, here is the short list of things to show up with when "picking" a trailer. (This is the bare minimum items list) 1: Magnetic trailer lights 2: Duct tape (incase there is no place for magnets to stick) 3: Shovel and wood blocks 4: Floor or bottle jack 5: spare set (3) 13" rim/tires aired up and in almost new condition 6: can-o-grease, cotter pins, rubber gloves 7: tools for possible tire changes and getting some grease shoved into the outer bearings/hubs. 8: flash light 9: 2" and 1 7/8" balls with drop hitches. 10: Pin or pad lock to lock the hitch onto the ball before leaving. 11: Safety chains 12: Orange triangles 13: Look at the title before paying. (Heck even make sure it has one before considering leaving) 14: CASH! LOL 15: Paid up road side assist for campers if you don't complete the above ^ list before leaving for the pick. This list will hopefully keep you from making a second trip. Enjoy! Soup 
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 21, 2014 18:07:39 GMT -8
I would add a "roll of mechanic's wire" to the list.
If find the trailer lights are not working, just back out a couple of the "J" rail screws and wrap a couple of turns of the soft mechanic's wire, then go across the rear and do the same to the other side. The temporary tail lights that you brought can be hung from the wire securely. It sure beats taping the lights to the skin, and is easy to remove when you get it home.
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soup
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Post by soup on Feb 22, 2014 1:38:50 GMT -8
Cool! Just make them tight. You don't want them banging against the skin. Just so you know....I'd still take the duct tape too, I never leave home without it LOL When picking a trailer "more" stuff to take the better in my book.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 22, 2014 5:34:57 GMT -8
The easy way to bring one home is Soup's truck or my tandem axle flat bed. Then you fix everything after you get it home.
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lovnvintage
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Post by lovnvintage on Feb 22, 2014 8:01:28 GMT -8
#10 on the list, I would highly recommend a lock.And if not stop and check if on bumpy road. Take an extra pin/bolt or whatever. We pulled a trailer this week and somehow over all the bumps the pin came out. It was very scary and all that ended holding it on our truck was one chain. Nothing like losing it on a 2 lane road with lots of traffic, trailer swaying uncontrollably, and damage to tow vehicle, camper. We got lucky that nobody was close enough to get slammed by the trailer. And all this was at 35mph speed. After losing the pin, probably over rr tracks, we had nothing but some screws that were not big enough for slot so ended up wedging them in and bending to hold the latch down, then stopped every 10 miles or so the check on them. Not a fun trip at all. Be safe and over prepared!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 22, 2014 19:30:48 GMT -8
A complete walk around starts and ends at the hitch point. You always check that twice. Never leave a hitch un locked or unchained. You could kill people if you lost that thing on the road and it slammed into pedestrians or other vehicles. If you aren't sure? Don't move it until you are.
Of course I did a video on this LOL...
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slider
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Post by slider on Feb 23, 2014 18:52:50 GMT -8
Pretty good list, I checked last minute (night before) on the ball size, most new camper are 2 5/16", which is what I keep on my truck, but I have a 2" for when I pull my utility trailer, glad I checked.
Just to add to number 11 (safety chains) you need something to connect the chains such as extra screw links, etc. Most of the vintage ones I've seen don't have a place to hook them. When I bought mine, I wrapped both chains on either side of the aframe of the hitch and "tied them off" with screw links. I still didn't feel great about this but was better than nothing.
My rear cargo door wouldn't stay latched so duct tape was great for that.
Might also want to check that anything attached to outside (propane tanks, spare tire, etc) are secure for trip or just put them inside.
After seeing all of the rot on mine, I'm wondering if it would make sense to somehow have some straps to go around the camper and hold the body to the frame, that may be overkill, but I am pretty amazed mine pulled so far so well without incident. Kinda scary after getting into it.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 23, 2014 18:57:30 GMT -8
Soup has a great remedy to make sure the box doesn't drop down to the asphalt if you think the rot might be on the heavy side and possibly dangerous. It HAS happened. To someone on this board no less. And they had to do emergency repairs in the street to get the thing home. I forget who it was but we got to see photos along with one heck of a story.
Ask Soup about this because has photos.
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Post by Nomad on Feb 23, 2014 21:31:01 GMT -8
Soup has a great remedy to make sure the box doesn't drop down to the asphalt if you think the rot might be on the heavy side and possibly dangerous. It HAS happened. To someone on this board no less. And they had to do emergency repairs in the street to get the thing home. I forget who it was but we got to see photos along with one heck of a story.
Ask Soup about this because has photos. It was boandsusan; here's the link to the thread. Worst Experience EVER
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soup
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Post by soup on Feb 24, 2014 3:03:25 GMT -8
Soup has a great remedy to make sure the box doesn't drop down to the asphalt if you think the rot might be on the heavy side and possibly dangerous. It HAS happened. To someone on this board no less. And they had to do emergency repairs in the street to get the thing home. I forget who it was but we got to see photos along with one heck of a story.
Ask Soup about this because has photos. Cheater blocks attached to inside walls under bench lines so they don't show. Try to hit a wall stud. The cheaters have to be wide enough to over lap the floor to hold the walls up. All you need is 4 of them with screws, pre-drill the cheater blocks. Only takes moments to install before that 1st transport. Heck install 8 of them and camp all season before repairs LOL 
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pam
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Post by pam on May 16, 2014 5:08:47 GMT -8
I use pipe cleaners as ties when I have to secure something. you can twist two or three in a long rope and use them two or three thick. If you want to go the extra mile you can wrap a bit of black electrical tape around the connections to cover any exposed wire. No scratching and no adhesive to worry about. You can pick up 100 at the Dollar store. Just a thought...
Thanks for the great list, Soup! I printed it out and laminated it!!
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on May 16, 2014 7:58:57 GMT -8
I keep a supply of tie wraps in various sizes and they come in handy for hanging wires, or dragging chains. Also, duct tape came in handy for loose jalousie panes! Check them before you move it!
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Post by vintagechick on Jun 6, 2014 19:12:15 GMT -8
I am clearly a newbie here and have what are probably stupid questions...
I am hoping to purchase a trailer this weekend. It has been sitting on jacks in an orchard since the 1970's. The tires apparently still hold some air.
1)Will I most likely need to replace the tires to get it home 3+ hours away? 2)Can the underside be rusted to where the wheels won't rotate?
I am concerned because I have not done this before and the person I am purchasing it from does not know anything about trailers either--this was on his property when he purchased it.
Thanks for your help and for (hopefully) not laughing at me:)
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Post by bigbill on Jun 6, 2014 19:37:31 GMT -8
That puts the tires around forty years old I wouldn't pull them across the street let alone a three hour trip. Replace the tires and yes if has brakes they could be rusted solid, You should repack the bearings and replace if needed. next examine springs, attaching hardware, and the frame for defects. also make sure the coupler is free and latching properly with a safety retaining pin and good safety chains. You also want to make sure the walls aren't rotted around the bottom as this could allow them to fall while towing it home that is addressed above and in several other places. It will be a miracle if the tail lights work so take along a set of magnetic lights as soup suggests above. Also make sure all window glass is secure so that it won't fall out going down the road. Next be sure all doors, including compartment doors are securely fastened to prevent them from flying open. Not trying to scare you just trying to keep you and your new trailer safe on your trip home. My final suggestion is tow it at a reduced speed no more than 50 or 55 mph. slower is better until you get it completely checked out. Stay safe and enjoy or new trailer and welcome to the board.
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lakewoodgirl
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Post by lakewoodgirl on Jun 6, 2014 19:39:13 GMT -8
Bungee cords & clamps. Don't ask why, just pack them! LOL
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