msgoehring
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Just call me Margaret the shellac, buff, sand an shine queen.
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Post by msgoehring on Jan 27, 2017 21:13:18 GMT -8
Also been reading up on electrical..................my motto has always been "Wish it, Dream it, Do it" but I cannot seem to get a grasp on this electrical. I find it sooooo confusing. I'm right there with you on the electric. I've read all the information on the forum about what is needed and how to install it but I'm still way confused. My problem lies in trying to figure out how to run the 110 volt stuff off the batteries when off grid. I have to be able to at least use a outlet and I don't want to add a bunch of 12 volt lights, that would just make the trailer to cluttered up. I'm at the point where I think I'll have to save up and have the systems set up for me. Good luck with your flooring, I'll be watching for pictures of it
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Jan 27, 2017 21:19:06 GMT -8
I dont know about the electicals. As for the floor temerature. hang the plastic around the base of the camper to the floor then put Your heater pointed in under the frame/floor. That should keep the flooring at a nice workable temp, I would think.
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Post by vikx on Jan 27, 2017 21:37:43 GMT -8
The only way to run ANY 110 volt item off the batteries is with an INverter. That will run small things, but unless you have a battery bank, very little else. Some inverters have a 110 receptacle but running anything but a light bulb will eat the batteries for lunch. A CONverter would run 12 volt items when the trailer is on shore power, but does nothing off the grid. The 12 volt system reverts to the batteries then.
If you want lighting, consider LED battery operated lights. They can be mounted or set on the counter or table.
A small Honda (or equally quiet) generator would give you enough power to operate a small appliance or fan. They are expensive to buy and expensive to run for what they do...
Our vintage trailers were designed to operate off grid using the propane system (stove, gas light and heater), hand water pumps (or a compression tank) and possibly one 12 volt light that worked only when the vehicle parking lights were on. I love the ingenious ways they provided everything off grid! They'll still do it today.
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Jan 27, 2017 22:00:15 GMT -8
mrmarty51 Yes we talked about that, but were too lazy tonight to change it all. If we can't keep a consistent temp, we'll have to probably do both, heat from bottom and inside.
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theresa
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from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
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Post by theresa on Jan 28, 2017 13:42:59 GMT -8
CorvettCrzy what do your VCT adhesive's instructions say for installation? Mine called for a steady 65 degrees of the adhesive, as well as the surface and tiles, for 48 hours before and after installation.
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Jan 28, 2017 13:48:11 GMT -8
theresa Same as yours. So far it looks like I should be able to keep it pretty warm, I haven't gone out in the middle of the night yet, probably do that tonight. I'm going to keep the tile in the house until we get ready. If we don't use this method, we might not be able to tile until April or May. I want to get this project finished for many reasons, gotta strike while the irons hot and the husband in willing!!
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theresa
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Post by theresa on Jan 28, 2017 14:56:00 GMT -8
theresa Same as yours. So far it looks like I should be able to keep it pretty warm, I haven't gone out in the middle of the night yet, probably do that tonight. I'm going to keep the tile in the house until we get ready. If we don't use this method, we might not be able to tile until April or May. I want to get this project finished for many reasons, gotta strike while the irons hot and the husband in willing!! I found that at exactly 65 degrees, it took much longer to set than I'd hoped. I said 30 - 90 minutes I believe, and we were a full hour and 45 minutes... literally watching glue dry. On Christmas Eve no less, because that's when I had a shop available to use for free. SaveSave
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Jan 28, 2017 18:20:11 GMT -8
mrmarty51 Yes we talked about that, but were too lazy tonight to change it all. If we can't keep a consistent temp, we'll have to probably do both, heat from bottom and inside. Might not be lazy, I like to think of it as being too tired to continue for another hour or two.
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Feb 2, 2017 20:17:20 GMT -8
Now that we've put the floor on the back burner and are concentrating on the cabinets, I've got to play with color some other way. Countertops. If you hate purple - Turn Away................ I've been considering a couple of options for the countertops and table. 1. Attempt to repair/clean the burns and fairly deep scratches then epoxy the top. 2. Spend $400 + on Yellow Cracked Ice formica 3. Cover both with Yellow Cracked Ice vinyl then epoxy on top. 4. Use one or a combination of the wilsonart that I received today. Keeping in mind that the sliding doors on my upper cabinets are Yellow Cracked Ice, the stove top is White with a Yellow Backplate, and the ice box is yellow, I would love some opinions.................. Below - the large samples are Wilsonart, the narrow rectangles are my VCT, the thin strips are Canvas for the bunk, the larger squares, vinyl for the seats/gaucho............... Color swatches/samples by sept913 009 by Corvett crzy, on Flickr Corvett crzy, on Flickr I'm going to try to save the bench seats that you can see at the right of the above photo, if possible. DSCN0748 by Corvett crzy, on Flickr It actually looks much better in the picture than it is. I'm wondering if the "brushed" texture on the yellow wilsonart would clash wit the cracked ice above? I also need to decide on the color scheme outside.
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Post by vikx on Feb 2, 2017 20:30:10 GMT -8
I love cracked ice but the cost is outrageous... I think a matching tone of yellow would work well. Can't tell by the pictures which one.
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msgoehring
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Just call me Margaret the shellac, buff, sand an shine queen.
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Post by msgoehring on Feb 2, 2017 21:04:30 GMT -8
Yeah I'd stay with the yellow also, either the vinyl covered with epoxy or the cheaper wilsonart, just because I'm too cheap to spend so much on counters. You don't want to put too much of the purple in the trailer, even though I love purple, because it will really darken the interior and with a small trailer you want as much light as you can get so it doesn't feel closed in on you.
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Feb 19, 2017 17:38:02 GMT -8
A few weeks, warm weather and progress. Frame and sides of tall cabinet rebuilt and flooring installed. 0219171843 by Corvett crzy, on Flickr Large yellow area will be under the kitchen cabinet and white area will be under the gaucho. We ran low on purple tile creating and re-creating the flower so we opted to put white under the gaucho rather than order and wait for more purple. Hoping it will help see into that storage area as well. 0219171842b by Corvett crzy, on Flickr Unfortunately the leveling compound Jim used on the plywood reacted with the vct glue and became a gummy mess. We didn't know we had a problem until after 2/3 of the floor had been glued. In order to stay within the recommended time frame for the glue and scraping, leveling and re-gluing the seams we had to install tiles in the center first. This caused some drifting and resulted in some gaps. Researching how to fill those, the yellow shows the gaps the worst. 0219171841b by Corvett crzy, on Flickr
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Feb 19, 2017 17:41:41 GMT -8
Camper wrapped up tight and keeping it warm and toasty for the curing period of the floor. 0219171845a by Corvett crzy, on Flickr
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Feb 19, 2017 17:47:36 GMT -8
Regardless of the gaps, I wish I was so creative. That looks very nice.
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Feb 19, 2017 17:50:42 GMT -8
mrmarty51 Thanks, I'm sure sometimes my husband wished I wasn't so, but he usually just gives me a shake of the head and does his best to help.
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