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Post by monsterpuppy on Jun 15, 2024 12:08:15 GMT -8
Hi All, I am starting this thread for my Shasta - I had posted earlier about buying this beautiful camper and now I will start to share some photos and ask some questions It has been a rainy spring up in the northeast and this is a driveway restoration (unfortunately I don't have a garage and to find space is way too expensive so I am tarping and un-tarping the beast as I go and covering windows as I take them out etc. So all the windows/eyebrows are out and almost all restored I will share a couple of pics - I have been working on these in my shed when it rains. I will post more pics of them soon. I finished taking off all the j-rail and today took off the back skin to have peek at what is under it and I was pleasantly surprised. My question is the inside birch around the window is stained and a little comprised where it leaked - it seems like this window in particular ( and some others) have been out before and re -done (but not well) I would like to either one sand and stain it again and put in a new strip of birch on the seam or remove it and redo the whole piece. It seems like I would have to take apart all the outside construction to put a new piece in. I don't think I could patch a new piece in without it looking awful. None of the wood is comprised but for the birch paneling so I am having a hard time justifying ripping all the way to the birch - the bathroom area as you can see in the photo is fine and that was is right next to the window. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! IMG_4683 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9127 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_4724 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9128 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9129 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9130 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_8711 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_8846 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_8845 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr
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Post by vikx on Jun 15, 2024 16:29:52 GMT -8
Ah, the infamous Shasta leaky dinette windows... We have several threads here on improvements but nothing is fool proof. They LEAK. New seals and resetting the glass with the screws in good, sound wood help a lot.
I believe the panels are ash-lots of grain in white oak looks quite similar if your replacing.
Your work so far looks excellent.
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Post by monsterpuppy on Jun 19, 2024 15:26:20 GMT -8
Hi Again, So I removed the bottom skin on the driver side and again was happy to see no major rot- just need to correct the front and back corners and the piece by the wheel well area. This camper must have been stored inside most of its life! I am counting on most of the work to be roof related. So my question is what to do with the stained paneling inside at the dinette windows and back window? Also I read about the toothpicks and glue for the screw and nail holes and started to have a go at that to see if you all think that I am doing it right. The rest of the skins will come off hopefully by the end of this weekend but another question I have is that the roof is divided into 7 sections - can I remove it by section like the side skins or is it better to remove in one piece - it is huge and I usually am working alone so it feels daunting and I am only 5 feet tall so it really feels big to me. I will get help but what do you all think is the best way to handle this and if i take it in one piece how do you start the roll up part? Thank you in advance for any help - also a big thank you to Larry for all the great window restoration videos! IMG_9165 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9166 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9168 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9163 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9164 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9169 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9171 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr
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Post by Teachndad on Jun 20, 2024 6:45:57 GMT -8
Wow! I love the clean picture of the interior curve. That corner looks pristine.
As for the roof, you should float it or roll it up. The section of the roof (span that is between the tops of the front and rear windows) is supposed to stay together.
I am in a rush right now, but someone should come along and help you with these options with directions. Larry aka Mobiletec, has a video where he shows how you roll the roof. It's on YouTube. It requires two ladders and two people.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by monsterpuppy on Jul 16, 2024 9:04:29 GMT -8
Back at it on and off through the rainstorms - all skins off - ordered new roof from Hemet Valley - Steve was great to deal with and yes it is getting trucked across the country - the roof will have more miles on it than the camper! Windows are completed - took pictures before packframe gasket installed on the rear and small windows. Shout out to Vintage Trailer Gaskets - wonderful to deal with! I also stripped all the paint of the J-rails and polished those as well - going to leave them unpainted. Going to repair and replace all the panels that have been affected by water and redo the cab over as well. Also redoing around the two roof vents and adding fantastic fans. Interior panels coming this week and I'll shellac them first then get going on the repairs. Sanded the door and re-shellac'd that as well that is waiting for its clear coats - like the color - hate working with the stuff - even at 20% dilution it still dries fast or I am too slow. Also working on the wiring - adding grounds to each exterior light and adding a junction box and converting to 7 way (I want to wire electric brakes back in - previous owner cut the wires). Just want to say thanks again to all the information on this forum and all the videos I have been watching - it is such a great source and here are some photos of my progress. Will take pics when I am done with the repairs. Have to go button it back up thunderstorms IMG_9345 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9342 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9343 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9317 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9337 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9339 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9347 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9349 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9348 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9351 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9346 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9360 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr
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Post by vikx on Jul 16, 2024 11:56:49 GMT -8
Your trailer is in amazing condition, how lucky. The only upgrade I can suggest is beefing up the overhang when you get the new wood installed. Maybe re-enforce with metal brackets or?? As you can tell, the overhang is prone to leaks and rot.
Keep us in the loop.
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Post by monsterpuppy on Jul 16, 2024 14:55:06 GMT -8
Hi Vikx, Thanks for the shout out about the camper - I was totally amazed at the condition and under the roof it is the same - someone loved this camper and kept it out of the elements here in the Northeast for 60 years (the camper spent most of it's life in Vermont and New Hampshire). About that dang cab over - I was thinking of running 1/4 steel or aluminum sandwiched to 1/2 width board ( to make up the 3/4") along the cantilever board that is above the dinette window to strengthen those areas and also try to beef up the front by running another vertical board (top to bottom) to that cantilever board - it is a problem area but I don't intend use it as a sleeping area but just to put things so they are out of the way while camping. Also thinking of trying to use some L angle under the cab over on those long horizontal boards to give them some stability as well - just hard to connect every everything together the way they originally built it and stay within my measurements to get everything back together - if you (or anyone else)have any ideas please shoot them out. I am sure I can make it better than what they did originally - but I am still running it through my head - a lot! Any other "Astrodomers" out there - that have any advice??
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Post by vikx on Jul 17, 2024 12:17:50 GMT -8
I like your idea of not using the hangover as a sleeping area. I'm guessing it was designed to support kids-little ones. (example: bunks are rated at 150lbs) As long as the weight is lighter up there, it should not be affected.
Another idea is to make supports for the cab corners when parked. Snug, but not pushing up on it. So, if a person wanted to take a nap up there while camping or use it for heavier items, it would not put pressure on the frame.
That area is always going to be under stress but it's lasted for 60+ years. I like the angle idea. Take photos for us.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jul 19, 2024 22:56:21 GMT -8
Fun thread.
It is getting harder to find a camper in this condition.
You’re doing excellent work.
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Post by Teachndad on Jul 20, 2024 5:51:00 GMT -8
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jul 20, 2024 7:52:05 GMT -8
The only bad/good news with getting a camper in such good condition is that you’ll never make it into the “Rot Hall of Fame.”
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Post by monsterpuppy on Jul 23, 2024 13:53:03 GMT -8
Techndad, yes those are angled(pointed) toothpicks - i can shove about three in each hole - I was experimenting with them to see how they would work - that board is getting replaced when I redo the inside paneling on those dinette windows. Do you feel the rounded picks are better?
Thanks everyone for your words of encouragement! (and I am glad that I am not on making it into the Rot Hall of Fame!!)
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Post by monsterpuppy on Jul 23, 2024 14:16:34 GMT -8
Got to work on the camper this past weekend - changed out the back interior panel that was damaged - need to add some blocks for license plate - interestingly - the tail lights were mounted to the long support board - I might add another underneath the light right before I install the skins - also need to work out the wiring and add my extra grounds before insulating. Started on the front end as well - got it apart in the front and still mulling over what to do with the cab over - my latest thought is to lap joint as much as I can both underneath the cab over and on the sides front to the back on the cantilever board- all the verticals top and bottom and also widen the cantilever board to 2 1/2 inches and place an aluminum flat bar in the inside against the cantilever board for more structural strength. For under the cab over also strengthening the long boards with some "upside down" L angle along the length of the boards with lap joints - the original design was so "chopped up". Still mulling it over so if anyone has any ideas please feel to shout them out. Here are my latest pics: IMG_9128 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9127 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9419 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9435 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9436 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr IMG_9453 by Fyren Brimstone, on Flickr
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Post by Teachndad on Jul 23, 2024 15:41:24 GMT -8
Techndad, yes those are angled(pointed) toothpicks - i can shove about three in each hole - I was experimenting with them to see how they would work - that board is getting replaced when I redo the inside paneling on those dinette windows. Do you feel the rounded picks are better? Thanks everyone for your words of encouragement! (and I am glad that I am not on making it into the Rot Hall of Fame!!) Actually, I was thinking the angled toothpicks might be better, but I have only used the rounded ones briefly. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in on that. I can forsee using this method in a few places on my Westerner walls. That's why I asked. Cheers, Rod
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Post by vikx on Jul 24, 2024 11:58:20 GMT -8
I like round picks-for a round hole. LOL. I don't think it matters a whole lot as long as they are glued and fill the hole.
Add the boards to the front and back. I did that on my 57 Shasta for table and dinette support and tail lights. There were very few boards there to begin with.
Back: <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/53879135948/in/dateposted-public/" title="002 g Butch Back (4)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53879135948_536daf25cc_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="002 g Butch Back (4)"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Front before: <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/53879137118/in/dateposted-public/" title="002 m Butch front original (4)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53879137118_56667b9583_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="002 m Butch front original (4)"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
With added sticks: <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/53879137108/in/dateposted-public/" title="002 m Butch front work (1)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53879137108_198ccd64ec_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="002 m Butch front work (1)"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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