Tire size, springs, and ground clearance

The axle is already below the springs. No easy way out for me. 🤕

Thanks, Teachndad. All very good points. I like the low look, too. It makes entry easier as well, but preventing damage is more important. It's definitely getting taller tires, and will likely get new springs. I'll add small blocks after those two changes if it's still riding too low.

Thank you!

Thanks for adding to the conversation.

I want to clarify that the pictures I posted are from an Aristocrat trailer, not the Nomad that is the focus of the thread. I only pointed out the drop floor frame pix as the Aristocrat floor design was similar to the Nomad.  I have since edited my post above to now indicate that the frame images are from an Aristocrat. 

As to the suspension design in my post above, I don't know if it mirrors what's on the Nomad or if its different.

Mocamino can enlighten us.

Sorry about the confusion.

Rod

Just remember that clearances will change as the suspension cycles. What looks good sitting in the driveway may not be so good hitting a pothole at 50mph.

A couple of observations.

You're going to have fun getting the spring bolts out of that frame design. The shackle end might be OK, but the stationary end might be tough, just my guess.

Don't try to save the stripped and rusted U-Bolts, just cut them off and have new bolts made AFTER you figure out exactly how and what way you're going to perform the height rise. Do not purchase the bolts with the springs. Have your local spring shop bend up a new set to your custom dimensions, while you wait. They cost $15/bolt.

It's just a guess, but I would be surprised if you can buy "off the shelf" replacement springs to fir your application. Modern trailer springs (all from China) are not the same length/width/height/weight rating as vintage trailer springs in most cases. It's not that big of a problem to weld-on new mounts to fit the newer style springs, but NOT on your "step down" design. You want to use your old mounts.

3500# rated springs will be fine for your trailer. (1750# each)

If it were me, I would cut the U-Bolts, I would inspect the brakes/hubs/drums very closely to make certain they are still serviceable. Are they something that you can still buy parts for in the future if you ever need to make repairs? No point in doing the springs and U-Bolts now, and then have to do a new axle/hubs/brakes next. Note, new axles are round tube, your axle is square forged, the U-Bolts are completely different. Take your springs to your local Spring Shop and have them rebuilt. Make certain they replace the Main Leaf, the one with the eyelets. They will re-arch the other leaf's. The old spring steel is better quality than the new steel according to Fernando, the owner of the "three generation old" Spring Shop I use.

The reason I suggested NOT buying the U-Bolts is because after you get the new, or rebuilt springs installed you will want to check your Ride Height to see what you have changed. Just use a "C" clamp to connect the axle and the spring pack. Use a floor jack under the axle just until the trailer begins to rise. You want to make this benchmark measurement both before you begin your changes and after they are completed. By doing the repair this way you will know exactly how much change occurred in the spring change. If your still not happy, just make a couple of "thick wall" square tube riser blocks to place between the axle and the springs. Check the benchmark measurement again, THEN order your new U-Bolts in the correct length for your application.

Good luck

John Palmer