jdizzle
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1971 Shasta Compact
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Post by jdizzle on Jan 20, 2014 16:45:22 GMT -8
So basically, I have this new (to me of course) '71 Shasta Compact, and I want to wire a 12v system. I don't need a converter as I don't need shore power to run my 12v things I want to use. Basically, I want to wire up a deep cycle and run maybe a charging port for cell phones, 12v lights when we are boondocking, and maybe a couple other small things. I can't really find any reference to this so that is why I am asking here. Does the ground go directly from the battery to ground or do you run it to the fuse block and then to the ground? Does anyone have a diagram of wiring up a simple system? Also, when you guys have wired things, how do you hide the wiring? Thanks in advance!
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Post by bigbill on Jan 20, 2014 17:12:23 GMT -8
You can do this in many different ways and if you read all the post in this section you will see many different ideas. I personally like to run all 12 volt lights an plugs with a positive and negative wire. as far as running or hiding wires that is up to each person and what they want. you will need a charging system. That can be as simple as a wire to your tow vehicle or a 12v 110 charger. The most important thing is the battery must be mounted in a well ventilated area away from sparks or any type of ignition. Also if you put it inside the trailer you need to vent it to the outside because of the gases it will produce during use, harmful to you, stinks, and can explode with a deadly force.
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jdizzle
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1971 Shasta Compact
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Post by jdizzle on Jan 20, 2014 17:19:23 GMT -8
What about a sealed battery, though?
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Jan 20, 2014 17:51:23 GMT -8
Even though the sealed batteries are not supposed to vent hydrogen, they do. NOTHING is foolproof, nothing is 100 percent safe. Do your research and make the choice that best meets your needs.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 20, 2014 18:13:27 GMT -8
You ask about fuses I always use an auto reset breaker on the battery positive very close to the battery then I fuse the 12volt items in the circuit as needed to protect each thing in use. You can use a 12 volt fuse block in one location or fuses inline near the item. I like to use a fuse block with plug in fuses so that all fuses are in a central location and easy to locate. The reason for the auto reset breaker (usually 30 amp) at the battery is to protect the whole system against a problem. I like 16 ga wire from fuse block to terminals that is heavy enough to run most lights and accessories. Also I fuse most circuits with no more than a 15 amp fuse and many with a 2 or 5 amp fuse. If you miss figure your load and start with to small of a fuse you can increase up to 15 amp safely if you use 16 ga. wire. I run a ground wire to each terminal because most 12 volt problems come from a failed ground when trying to use the frame or skin as your ground (to much wood and paint). Fuses are not needed on ground wires. Also use 10 ga to wire from the battery to the fuse panel as a minimum.
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Post by vikx on Jan 20, 2014 21:26:38 GMT -8
Here is a simple fuse block; grounds are the white wires. Here is the diagram: Here's another fuse block, circuit breaker and ground bracket: And the battery maintainer: I agree that all batteries should be vented.
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jdizzle
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Post by jdizzle on Jan 21, 2014 15:14:32 GMT -8
Thanks for the info! So I am guessing that the easiest way to run wires to new lights and whatnot is to fish them through the ceiling? I didn't think it would be too difficult but I figured I would ask someone that has done it already. Also, where do I find a ground terminal like that? And I suppose the best idea is to just mount the battery outside? Thanks again!
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Post by vikx on Jan 21, 2014 22:54:43 GMT -8
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Feb 3, 2014 16:57:42 GMT -8
The only reason that "sealed batteries don't gas" (of course they do, ALL lead/acid batteries release gas during charging, the chemical reaction is identical in every type) is because their specified charging voltages are considerably lower than for a regular wet battery, and these lower voltages allow gassing within the battery to stay at a low enough quantity and pressure that it doesn't escape the battery case. That's the only way a manufacturer can make a sealed battery work, by charging it sloooooooooooowly (between the slow charging, high price, and less energy storage per volume and weight of sealed batteries, I'll stick to wet batteries, tyvm). If you charged a regular wet battery at the voltages specified for, let's say AGMs, it "wouldn't gas" either. Conversely (or inversely, I never remember which is which), if you charge a sealed battery at wet battery voltages (overcharging), it WILL gas in the same manner as a wet battery. The difference is, really gassing a sealed battery blows the safety valves and then kills it because you can't replace the water.
You either need an adjustable-voltage charger, or one specifically matched to your particular battery manufacturer's charging specs, or you'll be replacing batteries more often than you should.
I've read, in more than one place, that the only way a standard RV converter like a Progressive Dynamics will EVER get your batteries fully charged is if it is left plugged in constantly, because the converters don't put out high enough voltage for what the batteries really need.
My golf cart batteries haven't lost any water in months (no water loss means "no" gassing), and they are hooked up to a 210-watt house solar panel 24/7, and are charged to voltages much higher than my Prog. Dyn. converter puts out, about 15 volts. I've watched them gassing, and a bottle cap full of ginger ale puts out more gas than my 130 pounds of batteries (only a slight exaggeration, I actually saw very few bubbles breaking the surface).
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Post by Nomad on Feb 19, 2014 14:29:19 GMT -8
*snip* I use J hooks to anchor the propane tank: I like the hooks. Going to have to come up with a set myself.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 19, 2014 18:13:28 GMT -8
I like to mount my batteries "inside" for theft security. Mounting it on the tongue makes it "easy pickin's" for anyone looking for a new battery. As long as it's "sealed, and vented", it's safe inside under a bed and your not going to be smelling any fumes with a battery maintainer turned on 24/7.
The propane tank(s) should be mounted sturdy enough that you can roll the trailer around on the jack wheel by pulling or pushing on the propane bottle. If it's mounted that sturdy, your good to go.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 19, 2014 19:03:09 GMT -8
As was stated in a couple of places above where ever you mount it make sure it is well ventilated, until you see a battery explode you can't believe the force. They are safe inside if properly vented.
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Post by vikx on Feb 19, 2014 22:29:42 GMT -8
J hooks are used on tent pop ups. Available thru A-Liner dealers and sometimes Coleman...
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jdizzle
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Post by jdizzle on Feb 20, 2014 7:45:44 GMT -8
Do you have a recomendation on how to ventilate a battery if you put it inside? Also, recommendations for a battery?
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Roothawg
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1963 Avalair Mark II
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Post by Roothawg on Feb 20, 2014 11:43:52 GMT -8
I like these for my hot rods. www.odysseybattery.com/batteries.htmlHowever, I opted for no 12 volt system on the Avalair, due to their limited use. It's really the most inefficient system there is. Lots of good info on this thread. Good luck with your adventure.
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