tpcm5000
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Yellowstone 1966
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Post by tpcm5000 on Sept 25, 2022 10:31:14 GMT -8
Hi, Before I make my third trip to the big box store, ha, was hoping someone could set me straight on my fitting options. I would like to plug three of my 5 propane lines, the ones not in use yet as I pulled the fridge, heater, and hot water heater. I am planning for appliances down the road, but would like to test the system now that I have a new regulator. So the fittings to the heater and hot water heater are flared, and I found plugs for them. To confirm, I do not use tape on the threads, correct? heaterflare by Tom Myers, on Flickr And then the fitting on the fridge, I believe is a compression fitting, correct? fridgeflare by Tom Myers, on Flickr I take it I need a different plug for this fitting, but have tried two and am lost. I think the first plug was 3/8" and maybe intended for a compression fitting, but was slightly too big, the plugs that fit the flared fittings might fit, but will not slip over the sleeve. Two questions, one, what sort of plug do I need for the compression fitting and how would I measure to get the right size? Or two, should I just convert this fitting to a flared fitting like the others? Not sure if the connection to a propane fridge will need to be of the compression type (vs to a heater or hot water heater which for me are flared)? Thanks!
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Post by vikx on Sept 25, 2022 21:17:30 GMT -8
You are correct. No tape on flares or compression. (it can ball up and ruin the seal) 3/8 flare to stove and water heater. Fridge looks like compression. 3/8?? 1/4?? You'll have to get a compression fitting that will fit into the existing nut. I'm thinking a compression coupler. Then get a 3/8 (or whatever size) cap for the other end. They make them but caps can be hard to find.
You can also get the correct size stop for the end of the fridge line or cut and flare the existing line and use another flare plug. You will have to make a short line to go from flare to compression for the fridge. I would flare the end of the cut off piece and connect it to the new flare with a flare union when the time comes.
If the fridge line is teed under the trailer, you can disconnect it and flare cap the tee. Be sure to tape the ends of the open line so spiders don't make a home. They love the smell of propane.
You will need a fairly good quality flaring tool. The older copper lines are tougher than today's so you have to be precise.
Let us know how it turns out.
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chriss
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Post by chriss on Oct 1, 2022 12:00:36 GMT -8
I might be wrong about this, but I thought compression fittings were a no-no on LP and NG lines. I was thinking maybe in the past, the original flare connection was damaged and they didn't have the flaring tool to make a flare.
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Post by vikx on Oct 1, 2022 17:52:23 GMT -8
I've had a lot of compression fittings in the gas lines of vintage trailers, especially at the appliances. You'd have to research codes and years that certain fittings were allowed or not.
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Oct 2, 2022 6:09:00 GMT -8
I might be wrong about this, but I thought compression fittings were a no-no on LP and NG lines. I was thinking maybe in the past, the original flare connection was damaged and they didn't have the flaring tool to make a flare. Agree
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Post by vikx on Oct 4, 2022 10:08:44 GMT -8
I've done quite a bit of sleuthing since this discussion began. TODAY, COMPRESSION FITTINGS are NOT ALLOWED FOR GAS LINES. In the past, that rule depended on each jurisdiction and years allowed.
Over the years, I have found several stoves and a few refrigerators with a compression fitting connection for gas. Some were not removable being built into a valve, etc. I even found a very old stove with a rubber nipple connection. (late 40s?)
My advice now would be to switch the appliance to flare if possible. If not, using the original fitting (assuming it was not leaking) will help seal the connection. I've not run into this issue and luckily (knock on wood) have had no leaks.
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