franko
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Post by franko on Aug 21, 2022 15:23:20 GMT -8
Well I joined the forum a while ago and I have been looking at a lot of really good advise. I started out trying to cut some corners but I found out cutting corners actually makes it harder I think. I ended up stripping the whole exterior except the roof. Once I got a look at the frame I am glad I did because I had to change almost every piece of frame wood. I am sure I would have been one of those pictures where the cabin unloads it self on the highway. There was basically nothing left holding it to the trailer. The roof had not leaked at all I'm surprised to say. But the windows had leaked and made the inside of the walls into a sauna and rotted wood all over the place. A lot of the front and rear framing ( big windows and the bathroom) areas were just gone and I had nothing to use for templates. I had to kind of figure out what they were supposed to look like. I looked everywhere I could think of but there are no frame diagrams that I could find for these units anywhere. I have been taking a few pictures once in a while but I missed most of it. I know I should have asked this first or some where else but I wanted to know what kind of stapler ( staple sizes etc ) that you guys use to put the tin back on. I have a stapler but I don't think its big enough for the job. Thanks for everything guys even if you didn't know I was picking up great advice all along. Frank Oh Ya I'm going to try posting some pics but they are not very good and don't follow any kind of order except when I thought of taking some.
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Post by vikx on Aug 25, 2022 11:59:39 GMT -8
Hi Frank,
You learned, as I did, cutting corners just makes for more time. I had to take my Hanson back apart and start over...
I suggest you slide (float) the roof side to side for rebuilding the edge wood and checking all within the ceiling. This also allows you to raise the roof vent and do some wiring if you want to.
I use 3/4 staples for the siding. They are 18 gauge, 1/4" crown. When the trim and J rail go on, the screws help hold the metal as well, so you don't need tons of staples. Just enough to hold the metal in place. Air stapler.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Aug 26, 2022 7:10:29 GMT -8
"...cutting corners actually makes it harder"
Truer words have never been spoken
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franko
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Post by franko on Aug 26, 2022 16:45:15 GMT -8
Thanks alot guy's. I have a stapler that does brad nails or 18 gauge staples. I have picked up a box of 3/4 inch stainless staples to use with it after reading these replies. I figured I was changing all the screws to stainless so I might as well get staples too.( expensive though compared to galvanized ones) And they only come in boxes of 5000 locally. Vikx I have moved the roof over on the sides and lifted as much as I could and I haven't found any ceiling damage. The side rails and rafters on top are nice and solid so I am not going to remove them. I had serious window leaks though. I changed pretty much all the framing and the sills on the sides and had to reinvent the ends with new wood. The only wiring I am going to add is one 12 volt led light in the ceiling over the table for playing cards or reading at the table. No bunk beds left so it's wide open. Yikes its a lot of work by myself but worth doing it right. Thanks again for a great site with serious advice. Frank
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Post by vikx on Aug 26, 2022 20:36:41 GMT -8
You lucked out on the roof/ceiling being in good condition.
Also, window leaks can be cause by edge trim putty failure, so pay special attention to that area when you get to it.
Have fun.
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franko
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Post by franko on Aug 30, 2022 16:06:27 GMT -8
Vikx I have 1" x 1/8 real butyl tape for the windows and J rails. I know it will be a pain to get the paper off if it gets too warm but I have a small freezer close by. I hope I can chill it and get it on and remove the paper before it gets warm. Should I seal the edges of the butyl after I trim it or just smooth it out with a wet finger and leave it? Thanks Frank
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Post by vikx on Aug 31, 2022 10:41:26 GMT -8
The butyl is hard to work with. It's so sticky that it often sticks to the very tools you're trying to trim with. I usually trim very carefully with a utility knife. A wet finger really won't do much but pull the putty out of place.
Be sure to fill the skin "dips" with a little putty. 1/8 won't fill those gaps.
Extra sealant shouldn't be necessary.
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franko
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Post by franko on Sept 1, 2022 9:17:34 GMT -8
Vikx
Do you suggest filling the dips with small pieces of butyl cut to size first or is there something else I should be using to fill the voids. The original sealant seemed to be thin tape that had hardened in a lot of places. It almost seems like 2 sided foam tape in some areas. And there was nothing put in the voids at all. I know that it will take quite a while to use butyl in the spaces but I don't mind the extra time As long as I am doing it right.
Frank
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Post by vikx on Sept 1, 2022 10:00:45 GMT -8
I would look into "RV butyl putty tape" rather than pure butyl. I don't really like the pure for windows. It works, but it's a real mess to trim. Any putty should ooze after window installation, it is not cut to fit before. I like to leave at least 1/8" past the flange to start with. The tape should be sticky when you buy it; it has the crinkly white paper rather than slick. The pieces of putty in the dips should be a little longer than you will need, again, about an 1/8 past the flange. The dip putty should not overlap the dip, in other words, fill the dip only. Putty will actually prevent a good seat if too thick... NOTE: Click on the photo and then click again at Flickr to enlarge. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/52327548129/in/dateposted-public/" title="004 g Birdie Door (2)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327548129_2f6e9c2a91_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="004 g Birdie Door (2)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/52327673795/in/dateposted-public/" title="004 d Birdie Windows (1)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327673795_afd45c1670_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="004 d Birdie Windows (1)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> The putty will be trimmed with a dull screwdriver. (pure butyl takes a utility knife) |
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