hotrodjim
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Frame wood
Jun 26, 2022 15:55:23 GMT -8
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Post by hotrodjim on Jun 26, 2022 15:55:23 GMT -8
Hello
My wife and I are redoing a 1956 Terry Can Ham and the trailer floor is rotten.
I’m wonder what type of wood should I use.
And if it a big No, no to use pressure treated wood just for the wood frame built up.
Note that I’m not using any pressure treated wood inside the trailer at all.
I will be putting 3/8 plywood over it and covering the bottom plywood with flex seal paint.
Is there any issue with this plan.
Thanks
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Jun 26, 2022 18:55:43 GMT -8
I’d say a no on pressure treated. Also I don’t think it’s a good idea to coat the bottom with anything. You want any moisture to be able to drain out. I just use regular non treated lumber on mine. Others will chime in with different options.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jun 27, 2022 11:44:55 GMT -8
I agree with aslmx, don’t use pressure treated wood. It contains chemicals that corrode many of today’s fasteners. Plus pressure treated wood may not make a good surface to glue Tile.
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hotrodjim
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Frame wood
Jun 27, 2022 14:47:01 GMT -8
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Post by hotrodjim on Jun 27, 2022 14:47:01 GMT -8
Ok thanks
I will not be using any pressure treated wood then.
The original wood floor has what I believe is called fiber board under it.
It looks A lot like a tar board about 1/4 thick.
I wore a mask because I read it could be asbestosis.
We live in MN so is there any recommendations on sealing the under side of the floor or just leave it.
Also should the 3/8 plywood be marine board.
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aslmx
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Frame wood
Jun 27, 2022 16:25:05 GMT -8
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Post by aslmx on Jun 27, 2022 16:25:05 GMT -8
Some people seal it with paint but I did nothing to mine. You could use marine plywood but I opted out of that too. I figure that it should last enough years for me then someone else can rebuild it again.
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Post by Teachndad on Jun 28, 2022 6:31:29 GMT -8
The question as to whether to coat or not is often debated in these forums. You read both sides. I even have asked myself this question, but I am in California and it never rains here, LOL. So, I am keeping it uncoated. You will get more slush kicked up from the rear tires of your tow vehicle than anywhere else, I think. Member PT has an image of the trailer with dripping icicles after he took it down the road. Maybe he will post it.
Jim, will you be towing it when the roads are slushy and icy? I know some folks take these old trailers and make ice houses out of them. Then, I can see someone would be driving it in wet conditions.
Cheers,
Rod
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Jun 28, 2022 6:48:10 GMT -8
On my GF's, we copied another forum user's idea and painted the bottom of the plywood with asphalt fence post paint. Had I not done that, we would have probably used that white membrane sheeting that other members have used. We wanted rigidity so we used 3/4 ACX (nominal) tongue and groove plywood and fastened it with Tek screws that were countersunk.
We used pressure treated wood for the exterior support piece that goes around the perimeter the outriggers. Every screw used on the exterior wood is coated, stainless, or treated to be PT safe.
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hotrodjim
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Frame wood
Jun 28, 2022 16:51:07 GMT -8
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Post by hotrodjim on Jun 28, 2022 16:51:07 GMT -8
We do not plan on any winter camping, as it does not have a heater.
My main concern is in the winter, it will be outside in the element of our winters where we can get some large snow drifts and the snow under the trailer.
I do plan on using POR15 on the frame metal.
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Jun 30, 2022 6:41:45 GMT -8
In that case, your only threats will be the humidity and moisture. In the winter I'd strongly suggest tarping it and then, around here, almost every RV and trailer stored outside, people use aluminum flashing or foam as a skirt around the bottom to keep the elements out.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jun 30, 2022 9:44:40 GMT -8
The problem with treating or painting the bottom is this. First off, not that much moisture get's there and what does show up underneath your trailer on the surface doesn't last long. It doesn't really have a chance to be soaked into the wood due to gravity. And if you paint it or treat it, moisture will wick in at all the fasteners and then won't have a way out. They knew what they were doing 66 years ago and it's still the same today. I don't coat or treat or paint any of the underside surfaces other than perhaps the inside of the wheel wells. Then another good thing to do is install small mud flaps at the rear most part of the wheel wells.
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gary350
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Post by gary350 on Oct 24, 2022 10:07:03 GMT -8
Don't use pressure treated that comes in contact with aluminum & steel screws. Pressure treated these days is copper sulfate that makes wood a blue green color.
I find the kiln dried wood splits easy. Yellow pine & kiln dry wood are heavier than white pine. White pine it best it is light weight and screws don't split wood.
2x2 boards are the same price as 2x4 boards and they are all bent like a banana. I bought a $200 table saw to cut 2x4s in 1/2 to make my own 2x2 boards.
Door frame should be 2x4 but most other boards are 2x2.
Put real wood in your trailer, no OSB, no particle board, no chip board.
Don't patch new wood to old wood.
Floor needs to be new 3/4" plywood. Camper trailer body attaches to the floor to don't want to body to blow off onto the highway at 60 mph.
Inside walls & ceiling are 3/16" plywood. No plywood on the outside or roof.
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