paigect
New Member
Posts: 9
Currently Offline
|
Post by paigect on Jan 17, 2014 21:13:40 GMT -8
Hi all, and thanks so much for this great website! I have spent some time snooping around and wonder if someone can help me navigate a possible purchase of a 1962 Shasta Compact. The current owners have had it for 4 years, kept it outside, had the roof seams resealed each year at a local rv place (I called the place - he said he used some kind of urethane sealer on the seams, not sure what that means). They had some other work done - upgraded electric, new tires, new spare tire. The people who owned it before them did a kitchen remodel. The new kitchen has no sink and no stove, just cabinets, countertop and electric minifridge, which is actually good with me - - we want something as lightweight as possible and are used to more hard core camping, so we don't need running water and we cook outside. But I would think that should lower the price a bit.
The paneling is birch and original. They say there is no visible water damage anywhere. I am trying to go take a look at it and need to know exactly what I should be looking for. I read on here that I should look under the windows and in the corners at the floor. Will I really be able to see what's going on, if the paneling looks fine?
Their RV guy told me the current owners asked him about removing and resealing the windows and he told them it could cost $2000, which they chose not to do. I can't say if the previous owners did it. If I see no damage under those windows on the interior, should I feel fairly confident that I am looking at a trailer without any serious rot issues? Is this possible in a 50 year old trailer? And will I have to spend $2k to remove, clean and reseal the windows, if they look pretty good?
Alternatively, can I crawl around under the trailer to see damage, and if so, where exactly should I be looking? Photos would be so, so helpful to me - - I am only moderately handy and don't understand all of the terminology used on this site, although I really am trying!
I read the ice pick advice. I am fairly certain these people would have a heart attack if I started poking their claimed "excellent condition" trailer with an icepick. Is there a good way to do this discreetly, without causing damage?
Sorry so long, but perhaps I should also explain what we are trying to accomplish with this possible purchase. My boyfriend and I are avid campers, but I have back problems now and tent camping isn't cutting it. We want a lightweight trailer we can tow with my Honda Element, which means I would ideally keep it under 1200# with electric brakes (1500# capacity). So - - no a/c, no water tanks, no propane tanks. I will not be replacing the Element soon - - we are kayakers/canoeists and the Element is the perfect boater car. We will use this trailer a lot, most weekends in the summer and some shoulder season, and bring it to a lot of places, up mountains, down mountains, cross country even. The reason for looking at the Shasta Compact is that I like the layout because of the ability to sleep on either two twins (if I go away with a friend) or make the bed into a queen for my boyfriend and I, while also having a dinette. I also like the idea of a closet that will fit a portable toilet for those middle of the night emergencies. Alternative would be a very pared down Scamp 13, but I have not much use for their bunk bed set up, and the Scamp has the full kitchen, which adds weight I don't need. Also hate the Scamp's carpeted walls - major dust allergy here.
I am not interested in purchasing a trailer to restore - - if anything major needed to be done, I would want to hire it out. Does a vintage trailer make sense for us, or should I try to shop new? And should I be scared of rot if there is no visual evidence, anywhere, of rot?
I hope that helps with any advice you may have for me. Sorry if some of these questions are elementary.
Paige
|
|
pirateslife
Active Member
Posts: 426
Likes: 137
1969 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by pirateslife on Jan 17, 2014 21:28:04 GMT -8
hi paige, and welcome. You ask is a vintage camper right for you? well i can say i got throwed into a freebie and havent looked back since. there can be a lot of hidden rot under the skin where it rolls under the frame. look for sags in the skin as it can show hidden rot in the support structure. if you have a good budget, and dont mind an investment you will never get back, go for it. if you like older things, the compact sounds perfect for your needs. chances are there is rot, nothing stays perfect for over 50 years. im sure mobiletec can let you know if it is worth it to hire it out or not and what to expect if you do. there is not much way to give an estimate as you always find more around every corner.
if your just looking for a camper and not exactly vintage, i would probably go newer. and if you do go vintage this is a great group to help
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jan 17, 2014 21:30:13 GMT -8
Hi Paige,
What is the price of the Compact? That would give us an idea if you should go for it or not. If you lay under the trailer, you should be able to see the skirt wood and what condition it's in. Skirts are described in our labeled diagram and are what the metal connects to at the bottom. An icepick isn't always necessary, just a fingernail will tell you if the wood is in bad shape.
No, windows should not cost 2K. It's very easy to do a window: remove screws, pry window flange away from the trailer skin, clean the flange and skin. Apply new RV putty to the flange and re-install the screws, being sure the putty fills all gaps. I would say no more than an hour per window, tops. (this doesn't include polishing or cleaning the window mechanism) So, at today's rates, 6 windows=$600, depending on location.
This Compact "sounds" like it is in good condition, but we need photos to judge. Sealing the roof seams is OK but sealing the J rail/edge trim "every year" is not. New putty should be installed to properly seal the J rail. Also, if the trailer has not had any structural repairs, I would guess there is hidden damage. Look inside the cabinets at the ceiling edge. If ANY water stains are there, there is damage behind, probably in the top edge wood. Look at the rear panel near the floor for stains and under the back window.
Please let us know the Price. Does it have Wings? New paint? Give us a link to photos please.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jan 17, 2014 21:44:44 GMT -8
Your Element may not be up to towing the Compact loaded. I would research carefully and even ask to weigh the trailer. Thing is, most trailers are weighed "empty", which doesn't include all your stuff. Check out some Element forums for members towing experiences.
Also be sure the Compact has brakes, many do not. That would be an added expense that is necessary with your Element.
Please view our Towing section for more info.
|
|
paigect
New Member
Posts: 9
Currently Offline
|
Post by paigect on Jan 17, 2014 21:57:07 GMT -8
Wow you guys are fast! Thanks so much. The asking price is $7000 obo. They do not sound super flexible. It has been professionally painted recently- - not loving the colors, kind of bland, but it's fine. Interior looks pretty good in photos - - original birch, new cabinets a good match, new cushions. Original windows, broken panes replaced. RV guy said he thought they were riveted in, hence the high cost to reseal. Missing the canvas bunk. This may sound silly, but I don't necessarily want to post the listing, because I don't want to encourage competition before I get a chance to look at it. :-) Bad form on my part? If so, I will post it.
Another issue is that it does not currently have electric brakes. RV guy said if the axle was the right type, it would cost $500 to install brakes. If he needed to put in a different axle, up to $1500. So that is another factor.
I feel like the $7000 should be the top of my price range, including repairs, for a trailer in good vintage condition. Without the brakes, the original kitchen or a new sink/stove/oven, and the windows and j rail resealed, should the price be lower? I don't want a sink/stove/oven, but the fact that it doesn't have it should help me out on price, no?
And I definitely don't want to spend $7000 on a trailer with possible hidden rot sufficient to affect structural integrity. But if I can do enough of a visual exam to ensure that is not the case, I might be be able to negotiate a price I can live with.
Keeping in mind, there are no similar trailers available in my area. They are quite rare here, and it is an expensive area.
|
|
paigect
New Member
Posts: 9
Currently Offline
|
Post by paigect on Jan 17, 2014 22:06:48 GMT -8
Thanks Vikx, I have considered the weight This particular model supposedly weighs in just under 1000# - - I'm sure removal of the sink and appliances helped. I would not tow the trailer with any additional real weight in it, aside from bedding - - we have plenty of room in the element for all of our stuff, and with the back seats out of the element, the interior weight would be fine, in addition to the tongue weight. I think I can even put our kayaks on the roof and still be within the total weight restrictions. We are very light travelers, used to be backpackers.
|
|
paigect
New Member
Posts: 9
Currently Offline
|
Post by paigect on Jan 18, 2014 5:25:31 GMT -8
Ok, having done more reading around here, I found this thread super helpful. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/760/mid-late-60s-shasta-compactThe big unknown is what the owners before the current owners did with this thing. The current owners either did not ask lots of questions about that, or are not sharing that information with me now. So aside from checking for rot with the icepick or similar method, I should check the sealing tape under the j raiils and around the windows and see if it looks fresh and gray (for how many years might it do that?) or dried and black. If the former, it could be that the owners before the current owners did the right things, and it is in decent shape. If not, it is definitely not worth what they are asking. Does that sound about right? And is hard to see this sealing tape? Assuming no deal here, anyone interested in selling me a fully restored trailer? WIll pay a fair price! :-)
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,822
Likes: 3,749
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 18, 2014 7:47:09 GMT -8
When purchasing a "restored" trailer it's good to see photos of the work that has been done. Otherwise you don't know what may have happened. You don't know if rotted framework has been replaced or covered up. First check to see if any of the interior paneling has been covered up with new paneling. If you find such a thing anywhere then just walk away from this trailer. How the paneling seams are covered will tell a lot. Removing one or more of the interior window frames may show this also.
The worst thing I heard from your original post was the exterior metal seams being "re-sealed".... They should not ever need to be "sealed" or "re-sealed". The seams are built to last pretty much forever if not damaged along the way. There must have been a reason that they decided the roof seams needed re-sealing and it can not be a good one. When the roof starts to leak due to bad seams, it's time for a new roof.
Without photos It's very hard to tell you much. Without seeing it in person it's hard to give you good advice. I've seen people buy "restored" trailers before and all they got was a pig with lipstick. One big piece of rotted junk that was all covered up with new paneling and fancy new curtains.
One question that you need the answer to. If they replaced any interior paneling, did they do it from the inside? Or did they do it the right way by removing the exterior metal skin. In other words from the outside which is the correct way.
This isn't rocket science and you do not need to be a professional to do a quality job. So this trailer could very well be a good buy. But if it was done wrong from the get go, you will be wasting a lot of money. Ask them to describe the project as they performed the work and how it was all accomplished. If they do not wish to disclose the info and have no pictures of the work as it was done, I would be skeptical of the quality.
|
|
Hamlet
2K Member
Posts: 2,819
Likes: 925
Currently Offline
|
Post by Hamlet on Jan 18, 2014 9:18:24 GMT -8
Hmm. Methinks this is too much for what really seems to be an unrestored trailer. Leaks can follow framing pieces long before they show up on paneling. This doesn't always happen, but it does happen. Mobiltec is right. If you find ANY signs of rot, just walk away. There is almost always a lot more than meets the eye. Vikx mentioned getting under the trailer and looking at the skirt boards. You can easily use an icepick here without marring any visible surface. Under the door, just in front of and behind the wheel wells, in the corners are the most common areas for problems. Bring a little blanket or tarp, wear your comfy clothes, get down and look around.
Good luck!
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Jan 18, 2014 10:27:56 GMT -8
When you are checking towing capacity of any vehicle make sure that figure DOES NOT INCLUDE the weight of things inside the vehicle including passengers. Talk to your dealer and ask for a print out of factory specs in regard to weight hauled inside including passenger and weight that can be safely towed also max tongue weight your vehicle can handle. Most times as you add weight one place it will subtract it some place else. You need to know this information not only to protect your vehicle from expensive damage but also for your own safety and to avoid serious civil suites in case of an accident. Also the terrain you travel can effect what you can tow. another thing to consider is wind resistance at the speeds you wish to tow. You may want to look a one of the larger tear drop trailers.
|
|
paigect
New Member
Posts: 9
Currently Offline
|
Post by paigect on Jan 18, 2014 10:57:20 GMT -8
Thanks all, you really are all a huge help. I actually forwarded the listing to Vicx, who said it was way overpriced, just based on the photos. Gave me some other helpful impressions as well. I am very grateful for that. Interesting note - - after I asked the current owner about the windows never having been pulled and resealed, they suddenly were not available this weekend for me to look at it, wanted me to wait a full week because they "had a lot to do". When I said it needed to be this weekend because we will be away the next two weekends, she said she would get back to me, and never did. I think she was hoping someone less "schooled" would show up and buy it, and if not they could keep me on the back burner. My radar was up, glad to have had it confirmed.
I would still consider a structurally restored Shasta. I really do prefer that nice birch interior with vinyl or linoleum flooring, and the retro vibe, over the beige carpeted floor and walls of my more modern alternative in my weight class, a pared down Scamp. I will post a "wanted" post, but if anyone has a truly restored 13 footer they want to part with (cosmetics not as important as structural integrity, and appliances not a concern), I am interested. And if anyone knows a reputable person/dealer/mechanic in the Northeast who I might buy either buy from or enlist for repairs down the road, also interested in that.
And BigBill, I appreciate the input on towing. I do know the total weight limits of the Element, and have ways of dealing with it. For example, the back seats are totally removable, and sitting in my garage. The online Element owners club is a huge help for discussions on this. I know that I have to account for our weight (we aren't that big), anything inside or on top of the car, the tongue weight, etc., and I would leave a cushion. Also have to account for wind and the extra weight that adds- - already used to dealing with that with my boxy car with kayaks on top. My plan is to have electric brakes, as well as a transmission cooler. Almost nothing extra would be transported in the trailer, probably just a comforter and pillows and some kind of portable toilet, and really all of that could be in the back of the E if necessary. If I end up with a trailer with water tanks, they will either never be filled, or they will be removed - - we will be doing all cooking and all cleaning outdoors, or we will be eating sandwiches. We will not have a/c, propane tanks, televisions, batteries, etc. And we really and truly are very, very light packers and bare bones campers. We use the same plate/cup/silverware for each meal, we don't buy lots of food in advance, and our heaviest thing is usually the beer cooler, which will be in the Element. We consider it a luxury if we each have a folding chair. :-) The only other luxuries I want in a trailer are a ceiling fan and a canopy, and the latter can be carried in the E. I do appreciate the concern - - I know it is a serious issue. But we aren't glampers, we will just be thrilled to be sleeping off the ground and have a dry place to hang out if it is raining.
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Jan 18, 2014 15:37:10 GMT -8
No problem I just wanted to make sure that you were looking at all the things that can effect your having a safe enjoyable future I would hate to have your family come on here and post that you really enjoyed the posts here before you got zapped do to you not realizing the total weight of your load was more than your Element was designed for. I don't know anything about the Elements ratings as I have never owned one We have a CRV and a Silverado that weighs 5800 lb, pulls up to a 9600 lb trailer and still gets twenty MPG + on the highway. I don't have a hitch on the CRV as it short wheelbase makes me comfortable pulling a trailer, All though back years ago we towed a 15 foot boat with a VW 1300 beetle. But 45 years ago traffic was lighter and I was less educated, since then I have learned many things the hard way. Have fun and I hope you find your dream.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jan 18, 2014 23:02:50 GMT -8
|
|
globestar
Member
Posts: 35
Likes: 5
Currently Offline
|
Post by globestar on Jan 28, 2014 5:27:12 GMT -8
There's a really nice '69 Serro Scotty Sportsman for sale in Charlotte, NC for $2900 if you want to take a ride. I looked at it last week, very solid, well maintained... Just too small for my tribe. It could probably be bought for $2500.
|
|
ronnie
Junior Member
Posts: 58
Likes: 11
Currently Offline
|
Post by ronnie on Jan 28, 2014 7:54:14 GMT -8
Well Mobiltec, you have really given me a challenge. I have done everything wrong so far. I purchased on Craigslist, of course, 1968 Aristocrat LoLiner, Had it brought to my residence unseen by me. At the present , I am unable to get into it because of a surgery. I have watched a lot of the You Tube videos, that is what fired me up on this, it's something that I have always wanted to do and when I saw the videos, that is all it took. Now I am in it, I guess. Just wish that I found the forum first. Question, can entry doors be interchange from model to model. Exp. Shasta to Aristocrat, I have not measured yet, but would be easier to look for rather than looking for one exactly, maybe have to have one made. Scratch Sabrina's ears for me. Ronnie
|
|