hola33
New Member
Posts: 3
1971 Serro Scotty Sportsman 15
Currently Offline
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Post by hola33 on Feb 8, 2022 13:11:22 GMT -8
Hi there all,
I have a 1971 Serro Scotty Sportman 15. I am the second owner, yeah! The previous gentleman put one coat of hengs/Henry’s roof coating on the roof. I am preparing my trailer for a respray and I’m going to remove the rubber coating on the roof. Other than sanding it off … is there another way to remove it? It sands pretty easy. Just slow going.
Thanks for any suggestions y’all may have!
Hola33
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Post by vikx on Feb 8, 2022 13:57:39 GMT -8
Getting it off may be more work than new metal. Also be aware that people coat the roofs in a mistaken idea that it will stop leaks. Inspect your trailer carefully (especially the edge trim and putty) before spraying so you can do repairs beforehand.
I've literally spend DAYS trying to get that stuff off and have never completely removed it. If sanding works, that sounds like the way to go.
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hola33
New Member
Posts: 3
1971 Serro Scotty Sportsman 15
Currently Offline
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Post by hola33 on Feb 8, 2022 16:01:57 GMT -8
Thank you Vikx. I’ve been reading some of your threads on your Scotty.
I’m lucky in that the coating is very thin. I can peel it with my finger nail. I’ve sanded the front & back curves so far. Taken it down to the fresh aluminum. I definitely plan on resealing all of the seams with new sealant!! I would love your opinion on which sealant to use!
I replaced the original ceiling vent with a 12V exhaust fan and used Dicor sealant for that. I’ve read about eternabond tape. (That scares me a little) I would like for the sealant to be paintable.
Once the entire trailer is sanded and prepped for paint, I plan to spray her with a Grace 5x magnum. I’d also love your recommendation on paint materials. I’ve read some say Rustoleum Oil Based Prof latex. Another YouTuber used Benjamin Moore DTM (direct to metal) no primer.
Always good to learn!!
~Hola
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Post by vikx on Feb 9, 2022 13:47:55 GMT -8
I use Proflex for roof seam sealing only. It is not for sealing the entire roof, but it will also work for flaws and small holes. You'll need 2 -3 coats. This is the paint on product, do not substitute no matter what the RV shop says... There's quite a bit of info here but this is a good thread: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/1599/roof-seams-when-sealing-necessaryI'm hoping you used putty under the roof vent flange. Some come with a foam seal which will work as well. Dicor has to be inspected every year and touched up as needed. Also, inspect the roof metal very carefully for pinholes. You would see deteriorating metal, possible bubbles and rough areas. The peeling is exactly why we don't recommended roof goops. The thicker they are, the worse they peel. I'm guessing the leaks weren't too bad if the goop is very thin. I always lift the roof metal to inspect the edge wood and rafters for rot. Don't get too far ahead of yourself on the roof before being SURE there is no wood rot under it. |
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hola33
New Member
Posts: 3
1971 Serro Scotty Sportsman 15
Currently Offline
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Post by hola33 on Feb 11, 2022 15:19:21 GMT -8
Thank you so much vikx! I will definitely use the Proflex for the roof seams, flaws, and small holes. As I am sanding, I see that the previous owner has done the same thing before applying the paint on roof coating. My aluminum roof looks like it has an acne problem. LOL. Additionally, my trailer has had one small leak that he caught pretty quickly. He had hit a tree branch and dented the upper rear driver's side corner at one point. It's right at the top and hard to notice ... hence the leak. As soon as he noticed the leak he immediately located the dent and sealed it. But there is a little bit of softness there. He was sure to point it out to me when I bought her. He was a military man and owned my trailer since '71. Very type A! (Until he got a little older)
Thank you for the link! I will have some quality time reading that.
Roof vent: I removed all the original materials, took it down to the aluminum. Made sure the surface was extra clean. The wood framing looked brand new, which was reassuring! When attaching the new vent, I first used Butyl tape, applied the vent, installed the screws, then applied the Dicor lap sealant around all the edges of the vent and screws. Let it dry for a few days, then I let the hose run up there for about 45 mins to an hour. No leaks. I hope I didn't forget anything.
We are finally getting some decent weather this weekend in Seattle, so I will be spending some quality time on the roof this weekend. I want to remove all the old, inspect and reapply with newer materials. That way I know when and what was done moving forward.
I just got my Scotty in June of last year. This is my first trailer and I am in love! I have joined a vintage trailer club and have gone to my first rally last September. The next one is May 5th. I am hoping to have my gal re-sprayed by then. But I gotta get all the right prep done first.
Again, I super appreciate all your input & knowledge!!
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Post by vikx on Feb 11, 2022 21:39:01 GMT -8
I'm glad to help.
When you work on the roof, be sure to remove the edge trim and inspect the edge wood. Scotties are notorious for leaking at the roof edge seam because the metal is "butted" rather than folded over the siding. You can't always notice the leaking, as the water runs down the walls. Better safe than sorry.
Let us know how it goes.
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