mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,821
Likes: 3,745
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 26, 2014 11:30:24 GMT -8
That's a great price for welding. Especially a house call. You might want to try a heat gun on tiles that are a little tough to get up.
|
|
jannica
Active Member
Posts: 185
Likes: 26
Currently Offline
|
Post by jannica on Jan 26, 2014 12:30:00 GMT -8
Very frustrated right now! I tried to remove the tiles, and it's not working. I was afraid this would happen. Part of the tiles are coming up, but they are leaving behind the bottom half on most of them. I'm sure with my luck that is the part with the most asbestos. Yikes. Please see my pics below. What should I do? I am keeping them wet and using a big scraper that's meant for tile removal. I've also been wearing goggles and a mask. How can I get the rest of the tile to come off? I bought adhesive remover but it says not to use on wood, so I guess I bought the wrong kind. Could I try it anyway? Not sure what would happen but my guess is that it might eat through the wood... Please help!
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,821
Likes: 3,745
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 26, 2014 12:51:36 GMT -8
Jannica try this. Once you have an area of tile up, place a couple of sheets of newspaper over what's left from under the tiles and then using a spray bottle, soak the news paper. Just do this in an area the size of one page as a test first. Let the wet newspaper set on the area over night. Might even want to give it another wetting after a few hours and then let set over night. The next day pick up the paper and try scraping that stuff up with a flat blade like a small drywall taping blade or a wide putty knife. Let me know what happens.
The stuff left behind from the tile should be soft now and scrap up. What's left in glue after that can be lightly sanded with a belt sander and then new glue spread over that. I usually sand it really good with a breather on and then paint the floor with oil based Kilz. Usually two coats. That seals the floor and new glue will stick to it just fine also.
Hope that does the trick for ya.
If worse comes to worse you can always just put luan down over the floor and start fresh.
|
|
jannica
Active Member
Posts: 185
Likes: 26
Currently Offline
|
Post by jannica on Jan 26, 2014 13:14:35 GMT -8
Jannica try this. Once you have an area of tile up, place a couple of sheets of newspaper over what's left from under the tiles and then using a spray bottle, soak the news paper. Just do this in an area the size of one page as a test first. Let the wet newspaper set on the area over night. Might even want to give it another wetting after a few hours and then let set over night. The next day pick up the paper and try scraping that stuff up with a flat blade like a small drywall taping blade or a wide putty knife. Let me know what happens.
The stuff left behind from the tile should be soft now and scrap up. What's left in glue after that can be lightly sanded with a belt sander and then new glue spread over that. I usually sand it really good with a breather on and then paint the floor with oil based Kilz. Usually two coats. That seals the floor and new glue will stick to it just fine also.
Hope that does the trick for ya.
If worse comes to worse you can always just put luan down over the floor and start fresh. That seems like it will take an eternity to scrape by hand not to mention the potential for more asbestos exposure which has me a little freaked out. Ugh I may just put luan over it, that seems like a much easier option. I have been inspecting the floor some more and I think once the frame is fixed, the floor will lay down flat again. If I can get that to happen, I'll be able to level it without replacing anything. That's what I would really prefer to do at this point. Thanks again for everyone's advice! It's definitely frustrating when things don't go as I hoped they would.
|
|
jannica
Active Member
Posts: 185
Likes: 26
Currently Offline
|
Post by jannica on Jan 26, 2014 14:27:06 GMT -8
I think I'm going to roll on a coat of some type of sealant over the remaining bits of tile before covering with another piece of wood, just to be on the safe side.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,821
Likes: 3,745
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 26, 2014 14:27:51 GMT -8
OK well I will be doing exactly that in the 59 Shasta soon so we'll see how well it works there.
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Jan 26, 2014 15:10:51 GMT -8
Another way that I have not seen mentioned here to remove tile but we used to do when making a repairs was to lay a wet towel down and then run a hot iron over it the steam would soften the tile and the adhesive so that you could take them up in one piece with no dust. also if you cover the floor leaving tile in some locations you may get an uneven spot later on. I would either remove all the tile or take leveling compound and taper the edges between the different levels over a long distance (a foot or two).
|
|
jannica
Active Member
Posts: 185
Likes: 26
Currently Offline
|
Post by jannica on Jan 26, 2014 16:34:17 GMT -8
Ok thanks for the advice. If I cover the floor with a thin layer of soundboard (1/4"), do you think I'll still get uneven spots? The tile is so thin, it doesn't seem like it would really make a difference. I just finished putting a layer of Kilz over the floor to lock in any particles that might try to get in my lungs. My plan is to add a layer of soundboard after the welder fixes my frame, assuming I can get the bowed part of the floor to level out at that point. I know this might not be the absolute best way, but I'm frustrated and want to get past this part. Hopefully this will work well enough.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,821
Likes: 3,745
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 26, 2014 16:46:26 GMT -8
Looks good to me...
|
|