adderall
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Post by adderall on Nov 30, 2021 18:09:18 GMT -8
Will this be hidden when the roof is installed and folded over, or will I need to glue in a small strip? As you can see, I was rushing, and the snips got away from me.
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Nov 30, 2021 19:25:27 GMT -8
what was the temperature when you installed it? I’m thinking it will cover with the j rail if it’s less than an inch but you would need to know if it’s going to shrink any.
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Post by vikx on Nov 30, 2021 21:46:19 GMT -8
I use Eternabond tape or similar. Overlap the metal slightly and the J rail should cover the flaw. Be careful situating the tape, as it doesn't like to be moved.
You can also cut a narrow piece of metal and overlap the lower piece. The overlap will be more with metal than tape.
Don't dispair-a lot of factory trailers had short metal. The tricks above will stop leaks.
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Dec 1, 2021 3:57:44 GMT -8
what was the temperature when you installed it? I’m thinking it will cover with the j rail if it’s less than an inch but you would need to know if it’s going to shrink any. The temperature was around 60-70 degrees in the shed. The metal was slightly cool to the touch. Thank you both for your replies!!
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Dec 6, 2021 7:40:45 GMT -8
I use Eternabond tape or similar. Overlap the metal slightly and the J rail should cover the flaw. Be careful situating the tape, as it doesn't like to be moved. You can also cut a narrow piece of metal and overlap the lower piece. The overlap will be more with metal than tape. Don't dispair-a lot of factory trailers had short metal. The tricks above will stop leaks. Vikx thank you so much. We put a small strip in and the new roof metal hammered down fine. The biggest issues I'm having now are that my relief cuts for the bend are tearing. I cut triangles for the severe curve and slits for the mild curve and they're all either ripping side ways or up. And also I cannot find good instructions or photos anywhere that discuss how to seal an inside 90 for the luggage/storage hump.
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Post by vikx on Dec 6, 2021 11:45:24 GMT -8
OSI gutter seal will help seal the slits and tears. The trick is to end up with the gutter seal flush with the metal. I use paint thinner (the real, poisonous stuff) on my finger and smooth as I go. Use a paper towel and wipe the finger often. Throw the sticky wipes away, don't try to re-use them. I have paper towel "snow" all over the floor as I smooth.
Tap the slits or humps flat before gutter seal. Also, it helps to predrill the J rail holes before setting in putty. (smaller than 1/8 bit for #6 screws)
Can you add a photo further back on the cargo door? Not sure what I'm looking at...
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Dec 6, 2021 12:33:04 GMT -8
OSI gutter seal will help seal the slits and tears. The trick is to end up with the gutter seal flush with the metal. I use paint thinner (the real, poisonous stuff) on my finger and smooth as I go. Use a paper towel and wipe the finger often. Throw the sticky wipes away, don't try to re-use them. I have paper towel "snow" all over the floor as I smooth. Tap the slits or humps flat before gutter seal. Also, it helps to predrill the J rail holes before setting in putty. (smaller than 1/8 bit for #6 screws) Can you add a photo further back on the cargo door? Not sure what I'm looking at... Sure thing!
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Post by vikx on Dec 6, 2021 13:35:05 GMT -8
Ah, the back metal... How was it done originally? That will give you a good clue on how to proceed.
One way to do this is to have a duct company do a brake in a single sheet of metal. The part that fits up and into the lip can be cut down for a perfect fit, so leave the upper tail a little long. I suggest experimenting with scrap metal to form exactly to the trailer so the brake will fit.
I've had retro noses formed at the duct shop and they turned out very well... Good luck and keep us in the loop.
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Dec 7, 2021 8:29:24 GMT -8
Here is the mess the builders made at the factory. At first I thought that this was a mistake made by a previous owner but my girlfriend found a Phoenix Facebook group where someone told her that this was how all of the mid 70s Phoenix models were constructed. Basically Wood -> silicone -> metal -> silicone -> rail -> screws -> Maybe more silicone Mayne not.
Zoomed in
After removal
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Post by vikx on Dec 7, 2021 11:47:13 GMT -8
I doubt the silicone was original. It came out in the 1980s... The photos show a mess, that's for sure. My 57 Shasta had similar trim on each lower corner. The putty used had embedded cloth and the trailer had no leaks for 60 years! One of the few that held up over time.
AND: the pictures are perfect to show the person braking the metal what you want to accomplish!
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Dec 10, 2021 8:57:08 GMT -8
We ended up bending at a 90 on a brake a friend has. Much better fit.
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Post by vikx on Dec 10, 2021 11:29:59 GMT -8
It looks like it will work very well! Congrats.
Be sure to seal your staples with a thin coat of OSI gutter seal before installing the J rail. Much easier to do this now than wait...
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Dec 10, 2021 16:15:37 GMT -8
The local hardware store sells Dap gutter seal in clear, beige, and white. Is the OSI worth the trip to the big box store?
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Post by vikx on Dec 11, 2021 20:14:08 GMT -8
The reason "OSI gutter seal" is recommended is because it is the ONLY product I recommend for this application. I also try to get people to buy the smaller 5 oz. tube instead of the big caulk. The 5oz. tube will last a couple of years if you keep the threads and cap clean.
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Dec 16, 2021 10:01:11 GMT -8
Looking better than I expected!
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