txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Jun 19, 2013 16:05:03 GMT -8
I am replacing the propane lines on our camper.. what is the best new material to use for this?? I want to do away with the copper lines if at all possible.
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Post by vikx on Jun 19, 2013 21:13:15 GMT -8
Txoil, the old copper pipes are better than new! Of course, they must be inspected for rubs and kinks, but the copper is much thicker that what is used today. I believe that's one of the reasons more modern trailers changed to black iron under the trailer and copper up and into the trailer.
When replacing copper, 3/8 OD copper tubing is available at hardware and home stores, use 3/8 flare fittings.
You really don't need to replace the old lines. Any RV shop can do a manometer test for leaks and visually inspect your copper lines.
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gonekayaking
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enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
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1956 Shasta 1500
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Post by gonekayaking on Jun 20, 2013 6:19:14 GMT -8
You really don't need to replace the old lines. Any RV shop can do a manometer test for leaks and visually inspect your copper lines. That's what's most important!!
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jun 20, 2013 6:45:34 GMT -8
You really don't need to replace the old lines. Any RV shop can do a manometer test for leaks and visually inspect your copper lines. That's what's most important!! Ditto from here. We use our gas all the time, but we have a healthy respect for it. I had a teacher in high school that did a lot of traveling with his wife in their cab-over camper, Big Blue. He talked about Big Blue all the time. All the time. A couple years after we graduated, we were shocked to hear of his very premature death. His camper had blown up while he was in it. Those copper lines really are the best, but absolutely, have them checked out, and do your own checking from time to time. We keep a leak kit under the kitchen sink.
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Post by universalexports on Jun 20, 2013 10:26:59 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Jun 20, 2013 21:57:23 GMT -8
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247stream
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Post by 247stream on Jun 25, 2013 7:54:04 GMT -8
I just read a great & easy tip for testing for leaks...
I pressurize the gas system. Usually I get one burner on the stove going. Once it is lit and operating ok I turn off the burner and shut the gas off at the tanks. In a half hour I'll return to the stove and attempt to light the same burner (without turning on the gas at the tank). If it lights and burns for a short period, I'm sure I have no gas leaks.
what say you Vikx?
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boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Jun 25, 2013 11:40:36 GMT -8
Don`t know what vikx would say but that sounds like a great self test to me. I would however have it tested before using on a newly purchased new/old camper. We also turned the gas off at the bottle each time we were finished using it on our old camper.
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Post by vikx on Jun 25, 2013 22:24:56 GMT -8
247 test works for me and here's a few more...
If you have an auto regulator, (two tanks) light the stove top, then turn it off. Turn the tanks off. If the indicator stays green for 30 minutes, you're good to go.
Test the fittings at the appliances with soapy test solution. No bubbles is a good thing.
SNIFF. Nasty rotten egg smell isn't welcome. V
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shastabear
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'66 Model 1500 Shasta
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Post by shastabear on Oct 6, 2013 9:39:31 GMT -8
I just scrapped out a gas grill I had but kept the valve and the regulator. My question is...Can I use that valve and reg (I know I'll need a longer line) for my camper stove and/or a 2 burner cast iron cook stove?
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Post by vikx on Oct 6, 2013 23:15:27 GMT -8
BBQ regulators are not "two stage" so shouldn't be used in a travel trailer propane system. However, they are fine to use for outside stoves, firepits, etc.
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Post by danrhodes on Dec 18, 2016 15:31:40 GMT -8
BBQ regulators are not "two stage" so shouldn't be used in a travel trailer propane system. However, they are fine to use for outside stoves, firepits, etc. Been googling for a while and can't find any definitive link that explains why 2 stage regulators are better?
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Post by vikx on Dec 18, 2016 22:51:28 GMT -8
Two stage regulators provide a more consistent flow. The RVIA requires a two stage on all new RVs. They are apt to have multiple appliances running at once that require a steady gas supply. I'm not sure why single stage are illegal on modern RVs, other than providing consistent flow.
Most of our vintage trailers used single stage regulators and many still work today. They ARE legal on an older trailer if used back in the day. Since our trailers rarely have two items running at a time, a two stage isn't going to provide an improvement.
If anyone has more information, please post.
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ontario
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Post by ontario on Apr 26, 2019 10:36:24 GMT -8
Txoil, the old copper pipes are better than new! Of course, they must be inspected for rubs and kinks, but the copper is much thicker that what is used today. I believe that's one of the reasons more modern trailers changed to black iron under the trailer and copper up and into the trailer. When replacing copper, 3/8 OD copper tubing is available at hardware and home stores, use 3/8 flare fittings. You really don't need to replace the old lines. Any RV shop can do a manometer test for leaks and visually inspect your copper lines. Are caps or plugs obtainable for the old copper propane lines? I want to remove two appliances on one side of the trailer, so I need to cap the lines at a junction. would rather not have to replace the lines altogether.
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Post by vikx on Apr 26, 2019 11:11:22 GMT -8
The lines can be plugged at the appliance nut or capped at a tee under the trailer. Most are 3/8 flare but it depends on the year of your trailer.
Also be careful removing appliances on one side as it could affect how the trailer tows. Appliances are heavy and removal could cause a list as well.
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