Building new Shasta door.

Older Shastas had h trim with aluminum trim on the door frame. I had some made at a local metal shop for my Cardinal door.

Scroll down to the door build in this album: 58cardinal.shutterfly.com/pictures/477 In the middle.

nccamper,

In the photos where you used a break machine, on the inside of the door (latch side) it looks like a double bend where one end goes on outside of trailer and the other bend serves as the stop for the screen door. The bend that serves as a stop, it looks rounded. How did you do that? I am going to rent a brake from HD and use the spare siding I have left over. I just don't know how to round off that inside piece so I don't cut everyone as they enter the trailer.

Also, how and where did you attach the H and L pieces on the door? I don't see any screws on that masterpiece.

The H pieces attached to the door with the flat nail. Originally they were screw type nails Which kept in place better. One nail and every foot up the door. The nail sit on the inside of the door frame (jam) so that they don’t show on either side of the door. Hopefully this makes sense.

I can try to help. First of all, your trim is a lot thicker than what I use.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/51575520138/in/dateposted-public/" title="023 j Door Trim (3)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51575520138_cc497edc78_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="023 j Door Trim (3)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The trim is also installed with thin 1/2 x 1/16 pure butyl on the edges. It should fit very flush to the trailer metal without gaps.

Also, the top of the door might be a little thick. My trim around the door itself was thin.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/51574486692/in/dateposted-public/" title="023 j Door Build (6)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51574486692_1555d04720_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="023 j Door Build (6)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/51574486627/in/dateposted-public/" title="023 j Door Final (6)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51574486627_f6b56341d3_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="023 j Door Final (6)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I think if you use thinner material around the door opening, it will help a lot. The door fit can also be tweaked to fit flush to the door trim.

Eyebrows do help but the gaps are just too big to seal. Putty has to be installed with the trim rather than poked in later. You get a better seal that way. Good luck with it. Nice work by the way. We've all been there-that's how we learn.

I didn't use anything under the door trim but a person could use Gutter Seal. Something that would squish flat and wipe away if it oozed. I tend to have a goopy mess when trying to seal tight fitting trim. I would say the door is supposed to "drain" if it really pours. Also, a person could drill holes in the bottom but I've never seen that.

There isn't a way to keep ALL water out since our trailers aren't aquarium sealed. There's bound to be a little water creeping in here and there. My trailers are kept under cover all winter to keep heavy rain and snow away. The freeze/thaw cycle is really rough on them.