Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 28, 2021 6:19:05 GMT -8
Soon the windows will be installed on my build. I'm wondering what the proper sequence should be. I'm thinking of first driving all the screws in first, then removing and adding the putty tape (to the window itself as opposed to the body?), and finally re-screwing. Make sense? I remember Vikx saying to add some gutter seal to screw holes (or screw heads?).
Also, I'm wondering about how to install the eyebrows. The ones I bought from VTS have only two screw holes at the ends. How many should I add? And should I use putty tape, or just some gutter seal on the screws?
1. Predrill screw holes. 2. Putty is applied to the window flange. If you have patterned siding, add small pieces of putty in the "dips". 3. Screw window in place. Before driving, you can add a small amount of OSI gutter seal to the hole if desired. Poke the screw thru the putty firmly into the screw hole to start. 4. The putty should ooze at each screw and seal to the next. Trim with a dull knife or screwdriver.
Most eyebrows have several spaced screw holes. I always place wood backers to support the eyebrow screws. The putty should fit tightly against the skin and eyebrow flange. If you have no backers, you might consider mounting the eyebrows as was originally done. Flange to skin attachments don't grip very well and every screw added can be overdriven, enlarge the hole and cause leaks.
Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 29, 2021 17:26:45 GMT -8
Little confused by the sentence "you might consider mounting the eyebrows as was originally done." I do have solid wood backing up the eyebrows. So, it sounds like you do use putty tape. I suppose that helps keep water from dripping down the siding onto the window, which in turn could leak.
What kind of screw spacing is used on those eyebrows? Mine have only two holes on the ends.
So, this is one of the eyebrow windows that I stripped paint from. Tried burning as well as paint remover. The latter worked better. Note the two holes at either end. Besides more holes in a line (3 to 4 inch spacing), should there also be a hole below on either end?
Should Joe flip the drip cap over and drill from the back with it supported against a piece of wood. It seems to me, he might start to dimple every spot he drills a hole from the "front" side. But maybe my question doesn't matter, because when you tighten the screws to mount a typical drip cap, it can dimple anyway as it squeezes out the putty.
Might be overthinking this.
Last Edit: Aug 30, 2021 21:49:53 GMT -8 by Teachndad
"I get that queasy how in the hell will this thing ever go back together feeling.” - PT
I think you have a good point Rod. The holes can be flattened after drilling, but the screws will dimple anyway. I would certainly clean the burrs, etc. Along with using a wood backer, with aluminum, a person could use less "push" and let the bit slowly drill the hole.
Yes, thought of the drilling problem too. Will place a backer board under when drilling. Thanks folks for looking after me.
so, while creating it the drilling process is tough, I am getting nervous, me and my dad brought trailer, so that whenever we to some place , we dont have to realy or search for hotels, we are going to customize it but now as i was watching threads and videos on youtube it lookes like i will be going to be very hard and maybe we will never end it up.
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