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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 11, 2021 14:12:06 GMT -8
I'm using 40 mil aluminum (used in the trucking industry) for my camper skins. The problem I'm having is stapling through two layers of this material. My 1/4 narrow crown stapler does a fine job for one layer, but where the roof comes over the edge, there are two layers. My staples don't penetrate both layers and just curl back.
Anyone have a solution? Would a medium crown stapler using 16 gauge rather than the 18 gauge narrow crown gun work better?
Any other ideas?
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Aug 12, 2021 8:20:20 GMT -8
I had a similar problem, only one layer of the .40 ml aluminum, though, and the original skin behind it, guess it is closer to .30. Larry replied recommending 'Portacable Chisel Tooth staples'.
I never gave them a try as I had already fallen back to 5/8" brads. I had to play with the pressure on the compressor a bit, some of the heads went right through when too high, but overall when I got the pressure down they worked fine. Given there will be jrail screwed in over the top of the seam I think the brads should be sufficient, to hold in place, to help fit properly, etc., until the jrail goes on top.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 12, 2021 10:49:19 GMT -8
Good point about the brads. I'm thinking of investing in a 16 gauge medium crown stapler. I can get 1/2" high tensile strength staples designed for metal. Another $150, but considering I'm saving about $1,500 by using the heavier aluminum,it seems worth it. Wondering if anyone else tried that.
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Aug 14, 2021 2:33:28 GMT -8
As pointed out above, does one even need to staple the roof? I can see doing the siding to hold it in place until the roof and j rail is installed. But gravity and straps can hold the roof until the j rails secure it.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 14, 2021 5:44:41 GMT -8
Yep, I'm going with the suggestion from tcpm5000 and using brads. Thanks. I did a little experimenting and it seemed to work fine. Brads shot in and not all the way through. I had to hammer-tap in a little farther on some shots, but the connection was secure enough to hold in place. That J-rail has a lot of screws to clamp the top onto the trailer.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 17, 2021 9:48:16 GMT -8
The straps aren't good enough. You need to staple or nail the roof down at the fold over before J Rail. The Porter Cable staples are the only ones that I have found that go through two layers of .030 metal. For .040? I don't know.
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Post by vikx on Aug 17, 2021 10:55:31 GMT -8
The roof needs to be stapled or nailed before J rail. Be sure to use OSI gutter seal on divots and flaws before putty and J rail.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 17, 2021 15:55:48 GMT -8
I did try using 18 gauge brad nails and was surprised how well they held. Usually they need an extra hammer tap, which is fine since the head is so small. I figure it will hold down well, especially if spaced about every inch. Then J-rails screwed on top of that. All gutter sealed too.
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