Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jan 14, 2014 19:03:37 GMT -8
If I were pressed to guess...and especially in the older canned hams, I would also think the putty tape was at fault. However, there is all the other seals around the glass within the frame that are equally as old. As long as you want the job done right, the hassle of replacing it all, even if it means another few dollars for a new pane of window glass, is well worth the effort to protect the interior for the next generation of restorers...  . Besides it's so much fun to wreck things.  'Specially GLASS things...! |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 14, 2014 21:41:30 GMT -8
Make sure that you clean the glass, and also the glass frame with alcohol before you apply the new butyl glass tape. Also, do not touch the butyl tape after you remove the protective paper. If you look at the tape, it is usually not centered on the paper backing (a good thing). You can use the edge of the paper as a guide to help get the tape on straight (it's only 1/4" wide) because you don't have much fudge factor in width.
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pirateslife
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1969 Shasta Compact
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Post by pirateslife on Jan 15, 2014 8:31:13 GMT -8
susieq, looks like me and you are in the same boat. i just asked larry about this over the weekend. unfortunately, mine is missing the metal strips. so if you can stretch yours to make two sets id appreciate it lol. good luck, even though i am a pretty good carpenter, i will say i have found some supprises this week when i started taking some skin off.
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Jan 15, 2014 8:49:21 GMT -8
susieq, looks like me and you are in the same boat. i just asked larry about this over the weekend. unfortunately, mine is missing the metal strips. so if you can stretch yours to make two sets id appreciate it lol. good luck, even though i am a pretty good carpenter, i will say i have found some supprises this week when i started taking some skin off. Here's one out of a '68 Compact on eBay Buy It Now price $115 or make offer Says it has all the trim. I know that would be a last resort but just thought I'd let you know about it. Has dimensions listed, too. www.ebay.com/itm/Vinatage-Shasta-Scotty-Hehr-Back-Window-RV-Camper-Trailer-/131073585541?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e84983185&vxp=mtrI am almost certain you could fabricate that trim yourself. Here's one of Ross's pics I borrowed:  |
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pirateslife
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Post by pirateslife on Jan 15, 2014 8:59:52 GMT -8
thanks, i actually placed an offer on it this past weekend and got declined. lol seems a little expensive knowing the first thing i would do is break the glass and replace the seal. i sure wouldnt risk a leaky seal afer all this work. thought i would see if he lower the price after it ends, yea im a tightwad
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jan 15, 2014 9:01:54 GMT -8
thanks, i actually placed an offer on it this past weekend and got declined. lol seems a little expensive knowing the first thing i would do is break the glass and replace the seal. i sure wouldnt risk a leaky seal afer all this work. thought i would see if he lower the price after it ends, yea im a tightwad Look at the pic I added. I think I could make that! |
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pirateslife
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Post by pirateslife on Jan 15, 2014 9:29:09 GMT -8
thats the trim? that very well could be made. i was thinking it would have more of a concave side to it and thinner. now you got me wheels a turnin
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 15, 2014 9:37:46 GMT -8
The trim is the glazing. It holds the glass in. It's very thin aluminum and its made to hold itself in by spring tension. I have a much larger window here that works the same way. It was out of my Deville. I only have three pieces of the trim/glazing but it's long enough to cut up and be used I think. Of course if I give it away I'll hate myself later LOL... Shoot me a PM and maybe we can work something out.
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pathfinder3081
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jan 15, 2014 9:49:49 GMT -8
8-|One piece of tempered aluminum bar stock, a variety of fine grade to course grade machine files, 30 or 40 hours and you'll be there!
Plus it can be done indoors!
On 2nd thought, I would think that a little search and discover might be in order first, but I like the way your thinking. I am the same way, and almost to a fault at times.. If Mobile Tech can't hook you up, surely there is someone who can.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 15, 2014 9:54:23 GMT -8
This is just a random thought , I have never tried this but if you installed the new glass with the black sealing tape then took a silicone sealer and Filled the front/outside space where the missing alum strips should go and smoothed it down like you would glazing putty on a wooden window so you had a nice smooth surface to deflect the water as the alum.pieces do. It seems like it would work as good or better and if you used clear or a decent color it should look good.
A second option would be use a latex caulk and then it could be painted to suit if you wanted.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jan 15, 2014 9:55:46 GMT -8
The trim is the glazing. It holds the glass in. It's very thin aluminum and its made to hold itself in by spring tension. I have a much larger window here that works the same way. It was out of my Deville. I only have three pieces of the trim/glazing but it's long enough to cut up and be used I think. Of course if I give it away I'll hate myself later LOL... Shoot me a PM and maybe we can work something out. Just to clarify, there's not actually a spring, right? It's the tension between the glass and the rim of the frame that holds the glass in place, correct? That would be very generous of you to share with Pirate. I'm sure it would make things a lot easier on him. I have to go now and work on mine since the ice has finally melted. Maybe i'll bring the windows in tonight and work on them. |
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pirateslife
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Post by pirateslife on Jan 15, 2014 9:56:56 GMT -8
This is just a random thought , I have never tried this but if you installed the new glass with the black sealing tape then took a silicone sealer and Filled the front/outside space where the missing alum strips should go and smoothed it down like you would glazing putty on a wooden window so you had a nice smooth surface to deflect the water as the alum.pieces do. It seems like it would work as good or better and if you used clear or a decent color it should look good. i have accomplished this on house windows before, using spring clips that rest against the bottom of the frame to provide the tension. |
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jan 15, 2014 9:57:59 GMT -8
And they actually sell snap in vinyl glazing kits, you cut to size. But we all want that shiny look.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 15, 2014 10:07:17 GMT -8
And they actually sell snap in vinyl glazing kits, you cut to size. But we all want that shiny look. If you wanted a polished alum appearance you could just cut flat polished alum strips with mitered corners and insert them into the glazing, building the alum trim to match the original in form and function is most likely beyond the skill and tool level of most people I would think. Again just a thought. |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 15, 2014 10:51:04 GMT -8
Yes SusieQ there is no actual spring. It's just a term. Spring Tension. They over lap each other in the corners going in either a clockwise or counter clockwise direction depending on where you start and which way you go. It's been a while. But not too difficult really.
I actually went through 3 of these windows on the Deville. The original one had been glazed with window glazing putty on the bottom because it was missing the one piece. That's the window I have now and the three pieces of metal glazing trim. |
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