The roof on this trailer, the flat part, is galvanized steel. The Frolic has 2x2 framing. Where the roof meets the framing there is a black substance, looks like tar, has a rubber consistency, and has fabric tape embedded in it. It is clearly different than the putty tape. I'm "lifting" the roof enough to add insulation. (I'm saving the ceiling, I'm peeling the plastic covering off of it and will paint it.) Apparently, this black stuff is good stuff. So far I haven't seen any sign that water got in. Any advice on what I should put back will be appreciated.
Thanks. The product you mention looks like it would do the same thing as what was there. What kind of trailer do you have? I'll see if I can get a picture that shows this stuff for what it is. Most of the descriptive qualities, however, are not visual. It is still sticky after 50+ years. It has the cloth embedded in it. It is like black putty tape with a thin cloth core. Thanks, all.
Hey Oldman, I read a bit on the 2-sided eternabond. I already knew the reputation of the stuff. "Once it's stuck it's stuck. That's a big piece of metal. I'm concerned about misalignment. I was already planning to use the corner seam tape under my aluminum edge molding (mine isn't really J-rail. It's the kind you can put the vinyl strip on to cover the screws. So, I've about decided to use thin putty tape between the galvanized roof section and the 2x2 framing that runs on each side. There are a couple of inches of overlap where the steel sets over the aluminum on the front and rear. I haven't totally made up my mind on that, but will probably use side-by-side putty tape. I may cover the edge of the steel front and rear with a piece of the corner-seal tape. I plan to paint the whole galvanized portion with elasomeric, including the first few inches of aluminum after the transition.
I'm installing a Norcold 323, 1.7 cu.ft. refrigerator in the Frolic. The Installation manual says it takes 617485 (upper) & 617454 (lower) vents. It also says I can use universal vents, 620505. I'd rather not use these because they are bigger. It seems everywhere I look the 617s are out of stock. I also have a question about the 620: Does it open easily so as to get to the controls?
I've installed a couple of 323s with orig. vintage venting. Depends on the trailer and what was there originally. I will say that the manual light (or piezo ligher) type fridges are better than a 2 way with a circuit board. When a fridge relies on a circuit board, you must have a 12 volt system (at least a battery and fused line) to operate it.
Thanks. I appreciate the encouragement about reliability. This trailer has no ref. vents. It had an ice-box. So I have to install some new vents. This is a first for me, but I have read a lot of manuals and tried to follow a lot of directions. I'll say this for Norcold: their installation instructions are quite clear. As my dad used to say, "This time and once more will make twice that I've done this." Right now, though, the enclosure I've built in the cabinet is the best frig enclosure I've ever built. Thanks again. hm