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Post by campparadise on Jun 12, 2021 11:53:43 GMT -8
Hello all and welcome to our attempt at restoring our 1972 Shasta Compact. Just a couple of newbies with the dream of going camping this summer, now just hoping we can get her back to life. Bear with us, as we are complete novices and will likely find ourselves with many questions. We realized we had some issues when after a light rain led to a steady drip and then closer inspection of areas yielded mold and rot. Fun! So here's where we're at. Roof, siding, windows, door removed. This side didn't look too bad in areas, but under the window and along the bottom there was significant rot.  more rot along the roof and lower corners 
Much of the wood in the rear was rotted away and crumbling  things up front, much of the same  found this under the roof   roof looks better than i expected 
 some closer looks 
 let the journey begin... |
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Post by vikx on Jun 12, 2021 12:18:35 GMT -8
Great Pix! I love rott....
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jun 12, 2021 14:52:11 GMT -8
You may make the Rot of the Month Club. Although I wouldn't say you're the winner. Your camper looks definitely rebuild-able. Take it one section at a time. I usually do the sides, bottom to top, then start at the rear and rebuild over the top to the front one panel at a time. Enjoy!
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Post by danrhodes on Jun 12, 2021 15:52:46 GMT -8
You are doing great. That big first step of pulling the skins is the hardest part. Now it's a board at a time to get it back to safe. Imagine all the Facebook gut and paint guys who don't even know they are driving around with all that hidden rot.
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Post by campparadise on Jun 18, 2021 11:04:36 GMT -8
Have a few days off coming up and what looks to be some favorable weather so hoping to get some progress made this week. I feel confident that we can do a majority of the work, but it's the underneath and floor that I'm really intimidated by. most of the floor seems solid. at some point the previous owner put down some laminate over the original floor, but there areas where you can still find it uncovered. 
some areas, primarily front and rear corners are really bad.  front right area under the sink  front left  front left corner or door side I'm not entirely sure how to approach these areas. damage like this to underneath studs. do i need to remove the whole length or can i cut to an area that is still solid and do like a sister stud? hoping to minimize the invasiveness of the rebuild, but don't want to cut corners that will just lead to future headaches(or worse) also does anyone know if I need to be concerned about asbestos with the flooring? it looks like sheet laid vinyl or linoleum, not tiles. Thanks again for all the guidance and words of encouragement! We can't wait to get her on the road! |
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Post by vikx on Jun 18, 2021 11:19:21 GMT -8
It depends on how bad the floor is on how far you have to go. My compact style trailer had to go down to the frame as piecing the floor corners would have taken most of the strength away. A solid piece of ply is 3 x stronger than pieced... I hung the body in the shed and pulled the frame free to re-frame and floor before anchoring the body again. Also, your paneling is pretty much gone in the pictures. I say you'll need to replace that with the usual "sandwich" at the lower walls. You can marry the corners but I would try to go at least 3 feet up before joining. CORNERS are so important; they must be firmly attached at the bottom and sturdy enough to support both the front and side walls. Since the trailer is apart, I would study closely on what needs to be done before proceeding. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/51254852007/in/dateposted-public/" title="002 j Body Lift (10)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51254852007_a2ccbc1877_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="002 j Body Lift (10)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/51254852007/in/dateposted-public/" title="002 j Body Lift (10)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51254852007_a2ccbc1877_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="002 j Body Lift (10)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/51256334424/in/dateposted-public/" title="002 k Pulling the Frame (4a)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51256334424_b4e445b87f_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="002 k Pulling the Frame (4a)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/51255582121/in/dateposted-public/" title="002 l Redd Subfloor (1)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51255582121_d9d1623e45_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="002 l Redd Subfloor (1)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> |
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jun 18, 2021 14:01:33 GMT -8
Although in a 1972 trailer, it’s unlikely that asbestos was used in an adhesive, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and proceed as though it is present. The most important thing in removing small amounts of asbestos-adhered flooring is to keep it from becoming airborne. That means misting the area as you work on it. We just assumed our 1959 with real linoleum had asbestos, we wore masks, worked in a well+ventilated area (the driveway) and kept the exposed areas moist as we removed the tiles. If you are careful, and remember that your 60 sq ft floor is a very small area, you should be fine..
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Post by campparadise on Jun 20, 2021 8:31:53 GMT -8
thanks for the pics vikx. newbie question - where does the body attach to the floor?
is this covered in your book?
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Post by vikx on Jun 20, 2021 10:30:40 GMT -8
As you can see, the joists are bolted to the frame. In this trailer, I bolted thru the floor as well as screwed it to attach. (floor bolts were countersunk and went thru the whole floor/joist/metal frame) The body was rebuilt around the bottom and then also bolted to the floor/frame section. At each corner, I used heavy angle braces as well. In some areas, there are two layers of strong new wood attaching the outer body thru the floor. This is where your cabinetry starts holding the whole thing together; they not only square the walls, but anchor to the floor (usually deck screws). Firmly attached at the wall, a cabinet is the main strength of the cabin. This is why we say DON'T GUT. Those cabinets and closets are there for a reason! Here is the link to the Red Dale build: reddaletrailer.shutterfly.com/ Click on pictures and videos to see the build albums. You can also PM me for my email address for one on one discussion of the attachment process. I just don't have the space to upload that many to Flickr. |
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