lilwayne
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Post by lilwayne on Mar 7, 2021 17:50:25 GMT -8
Hi- I need to make a decision in the next 48 hours or so regarding the aluminum sheets I need to order. I want to go with the mill grade look.
My options are .025 and .032
My questions are do you think the .025 will be to thin, and do you think the .032 will be too difficult to bend over the edges? I have access to a brake so am going to try and do a 3-4 inch pattern.
I have been thinking over on this for a few weeks and have came to zero decision.
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Mar 7, 2021 18:41:07 GMT -8
If I'm not mistaken, .025 is about what size the trailers originally came with. (for example; soffit / facial coil stock for houses is .019) .032 is the upgraded thickness I've heard folks go with on roofs for better performance / durability. (don't dent near as easy) But I think it's still workable without having to use a brake. I actually used .040 on my TD. Now that did require a brake to make my bends. Just my opinion, didn't say it was a good one... Whitney
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lilwayne
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Post by lilwayne on Mar 7, 2021 20:20:48 GMT -8
If I'm not mistaken, .025 is about what size the trailers originally came with. (for example; soffit / facial coil stock for houses is .019) .032 is the upgraded thickness I've heard folks go with on roofs for better performance / durability. (don't dent near as easy) But I think it's still workable without having to use a brake. I actually used .040 on my TD. Now that did require a brake to make my bends. Just my opinion, didn't say it was a good one... Whitney Thanks. I know hemet valley sells the white at .024- but the raw mill is .030. So I was wondering if there was a really good reason why the mill grade wasn't sold at the .024? When you say you needed to make the bends- was it the pattern in the aluminum or just to get it on the round parts to fit? My trailer is not so round, more squarish. I was thinking I could use the brake to put the pattern in the aluminum. Both gauges are essentially the same price.
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Post by vikx on Mar 7, 2021 20:38:45 GMT -8
I've had good luck with .024 but most people here like .032. I recommend you buy metal with the brakes already done. I don't think it costs much more. They have huge big brakes and can do any thickness of metal.
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Mar 8, 2021 7:30:51 GMT -8
Mine is "squarish" as well. Couldn't just "fold over" the angles, they had to be bent on a brake (wasn't sure if broke was the proper term or not ) With the leftovers, I bend all my own trim. I used the .040 mill finish "raw" aluminum purchased from a semi trailer repair place that comes off a roll. It's a lot of work, but it can be polished...
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 8, 2021 8:56:13 GMT -8
I go with the heavier aluminum. .032 takes a beating a little better and bends easily enough. It also doesn't buckle as easily when handing if the breaks are in the sheet.
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lilwayne
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Post by lilwayne on Mar 8, 2021 10:40:13 GMT -8
I go with the heavier aluminum. .032 takes a beating a little better and bends easily enough. It also doesn't buckle as easily when handing if the breaks are in the sheet. Thank you- everyone has been so helpful. I am going to take your advise and go with the .032. I am going to order it today!!! This is exciting!!
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lilwayne
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Post by lilwayne on Mar 8, 2021 10:44:11 GMT -8
That looks amazing. Really good work. Did you make the jrails too?
I am going to go with the .032. How did you do the seams? I have a few different ideas with s-locks, I am not sure I can re-create the cleats just right- but will try. I am also worried about the seams since I can only get it in 4x10 sheets. I am going to actually ask about 5x10 today before I place the order. They had 4x12 sheets but the brake is only 10 feet anyway.
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forkzilla
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Post by forkzilla on Mar 8, 2021 18:23:23 GMT -8
I did my 1961 Shasta with steel, .015 thick. I had access to a twenty foot cnc brake to bend the 6” spacing and the “S” folds. The paint on the steel is guaranteed 40 years and I’m positive I’ll be dead by then. I bought the steel from a company that manufactures pole building metal. I bought the steel before it was to be formed with ribs. It cost me $400 instead of thousands for aluminum. The money I saved was used to paint the siding with Sherwin Williams automotive paint to match my tow vehicle, a 1990 Ford C8000 custom pickup, with a turbo charged Caterpillar 3208 engine. I don’t consider myself a conformist and like to be different. I’m sure someone will say dissimilar metals will cause problems but the original construction has steel nails and screws thru aluminum skin, so it isn’t a worry for me.
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Mar 8, 2021 19:44:46 GMT -8
That looks amazing. Really good work. Did you make the jrails too? I am going to go with the .032. How did you do the seams? I have a few different ideas with s-locks, I am not sure I can re-create the cleats just right- but will try. Thanks lilwayne. The only seam I had was there in the front. I over lapped the top over the bottom a couple inches, ran a thin bead of gutter seal, and put screws every few inches. The seam is visible there on the front. They've overlapped the older trailers for years. Didn't use J-rail, but did bend my own corner cap rail (L). It's double thick on top and single on the side. I don't think you can go wrong with the .032 Whitney
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Mar 8, 2021 19:47:49 GMT -8
I did my 1961 Shasta with steel, .015 thick. I had access to a twenty foot cnc brake to bend the 6” spacing and the “S” folds. The paint on the steel is guaranteed 40 years and I’m positive I’ll be dead by then. I bought the steel from a company that manufactures pole building metal. I bought the steel before it was to be formed with ribs. It cost me $400 instead of thousands for aluminum. I've always pondered that. We have a manufacturer fairly close by. How wide is the metal before they put all the ribs in it? How's the weight of it? Whitney
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lilwayne
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Post by lilwayne on Mar 9, 2021 15:20:48 GMT -8
I did my 1961 Shasta with steel, .015 thick. I had access to a twenty foot cnc brake to bend the 6” spacing and the “S” folds. The paint on the steel is guaranteed 40 years and I’m positive I’ll be dead by then. I bought the steel from a company that manufactures pole building metal. I bought the steel before it was to be formed with ribs. It cost me $400 instead of thousands for aluminum. The money I saved was used to paint the siding with Sherwin Williams automotive paint to match my tow vehicle, a 1990 Ford C8000 custom pickup, with a turbo charged Caterpillar 3208 engine. I don’t consider myself a conformist and like to be different. I’m sure someone will say dissimilar metals will cause problems but the original construction has steel nails and screws thru aluminum skin, so it isn’t a worry for me. I wondered that too. I had access to different types of metal and a lot of sheet metal. It would have been cheaper- but I just didn't know. Some of the metal options had colors on one side too.
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lilwayne
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Post by lilwayne on Mar 9, 2021 15:22:24 GMT -8
Lil Wayne is the camper. It is named after a cool cat that recently passed.
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forkzilla
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Post by forkzilla on Mar 9, 2021 16:50:22 GMT -8
My 13 foot Shasta gained 61 pounds. The steel is 43 inches wide from the coil. Message me and I’ll send you pictures of the finished camper.
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chickenfarmer
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Post by chickenfarmer on May 18, 2021 5:13:44 GMT -8
Hi- I need to make a decision in the next 48 hours or so regarding the aluminum sheets I need to order. I want to go with the mill grade look. My options are .025 and .032 My questions are do you think the .025 will be to thin, and do you think the .032 will be too difficult to bend over the edges? I have access to a brake so am going to try and do a 3-4 inch pattern. I have been thinking over on this for a few weeks and have came to zero decision. I just ordered siding and roof from Atomic Camper Parts in Chattanooga. Both are .025. The roof is mill finished the siding is white on one side. The last time I put on a new roof it was .04. I think the thinner roof will be easier to work with and easier to damage. I’ll know soon.
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