mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 26, 2021 16:04:39 GMT -8
Hi All... I need a little help... The 48 Mainline came with blinds. I tried to restore them but I just can't get the materials I need to make it work. Long story short the slats are inch and a half and they only make ladder tape for 2 inch or 1 inch slats. I can't find any ladder tape for 1 1/2 inch slats. Also, I can't find anyone who makes Surface Mounted blinds. So the blinds are out... Believe me I've done a ton of research trying to make something work.... SO..... The alternative is curtains. I've always had my curtains made by someone else but now I've moved and have to resort to a seamstress or seamster around here. It's very hard to find anything or anyone around here to do anything. I can't sew and don't have a machine. But I think I can find someone to make them for me. I just need to know one thing. How much extra width should I use to make the curtains ruffle? You know, so they aren't just flat when they are drawn.... Is it 2 times, 3 times, one and a half times the width to cover? ? Thanks in advance. And if there is anyone out there who could make them for me I would love to hear from you.
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Feb 26, 2021 19:22:52 GMT -8
I will go down to the barn tomorrow and look to see if we have any 1 1/2 ladder tape left. Whitney
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Feb 26, 2021 19:26:19 GMT -8
Hi All... I need a little help... I just need to know one thing. How much extra width should I use to make the curtains ruffle? You know, so they aren't just flat when they are drawn.... Is it 2 times, 3 times, one and a half times the width to cover? ? Thanks in advance. And if there is anyone out there who could make them for me I would love to hear from you. M-i-l & wife both say double the width. That way you can bunch 'em up. At least that's what they do in the house. Whitney
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Feb 26, 2021 19:33:10 GMT -8
Larry, you are a never ending source of inspiration.
Never too proud to ask for help, "man enough" to acknowledge the need for "ruffles" and asking about the equivalent of "bend allowance" in metal to a similar thing in fabric. I sure hope someone will answer your call. Some may think I'm being sarcastic, but no...I sincerely appreciate your willingness to ask for help. Nobody knows how to do everything right. Myself included!
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Post by vikx on Feb 26, 2021 22:45:02 GMT -8
"Larry, you are a never ending source of inspiration"
HE CAN'T SEW!!! Surely this is included in a full build??
Getting back to the subject: I am not a seamstress but learned a few tricks over the years.
1. Use thin rods and cafe curtain hangers. (rings that clip onto the curtains) The curtains open/close a lot easier with the rings 2. My curtains are about 1" longer at the bottom depending on the height of the dinette seats. I add 12" to the width (sliding width-each section) to give a little ruffle when hanging. 3. Most of my curtains have rings but if you want them to have a ruffle at the top, you'll need to have a 3"-4" fold at the top to make the rod pocket and fluff at the top.
The Mainline is well worth a pro seamstress/seamster. I'm sure you can find someone who knows curtains very well. Line them, too.
Remember, less is more. Too thick or too much fabric will just be in the way. I hate to say it, but those funny little balls were popular in the 40s... Snicker.
Keep hunting for the 1.5 tape. Blinds are too cool.
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pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Feb 27, 2021 5:34:52 GMT -8
When I make my curtains I make them 1.5 times the width of the window. That way they are still a little ruffly when they are closed ,but it's not too much material bunched up on the sides when they are pulled open.
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Post by danrhodes on Feb 27, 2021 7:16:49 GMT -8
Just to add here, sewing machines are surprisingly cheap. New ones in the $100-$200 range. On Craigslist, a week doesn't go by that I don't see an older one given away for free. Sewing isn't all that tricky once you get the hang of it.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 27, 2021 7:59:53 GMT -8
I'll add one related piece of information... pre-wash the fabric before making the curtains. They shrink.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Feb 27, 2021 10:07:12 GMT -8
I used to sew... a LOT. Make the curtains about 1.5 times the width of the window. This will give enough coverage when closed while still looking nice. And the extra fabric helps keep it darker at night. Rings make them easier to slide, but allow light in at night, and don’t often look as nice. Just make the rod pocket half an inch wider than the rod. When doing a rod-pocket curtain, always always do a “ruffle” at the top. It makes the curtains look more finished. It does take adding a couple inches to the fabric length.
Many kinds of fabrics work. If the fabric is not 100% cotton, it usually won’t shrink.
Most fabrics have a sizing applied before they are put on the bolt. If you wash the fabric first, the sizing will hang differently. Send it to a commercial laundry and ask for heavy starch after they are done. Most folks don’t know how to effectively starch fabrics at home anymore.
If is 100% cotton, you will need to pre wash and dry it, and starch it after curtains are done. You will need to add at least two inches per yard of fabric to allow for shrinkage. Unless the bolt says that it has been pre shrunk.,then you should be ok.
Fabrics with the design printed on are usually lighter weight and benefit from being lined with a solid fabric. When a trailer is left outside without a cover, fabric can rot just like tires.
Some fabrics have the pattern woven in, usually stripes and some plaids. Depending on how heavy the fabric is, they may not need lining.
When I did the curtains for Hamlet, I used a woven-in stripe heavy mattress ticking. He.has spent most of his life sitting outside without a cover, but when I washed the curtains a couple months ago, the curtains had held up beautifully with only a small amount of slight fading. I guess my thinking was that since we had spent so much time and money on restoring him, it would just not be “right” to do a crummy job on the curtains.
Sorry about the length of this. I’m sure you weren’t looking for a curtain tutorial!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 27, 2021 10:49:05 GMT -8
Thank you all for your help. The only three things I have not learned to do my self so far in this hobby are painting the outside, welding and sewing for upholstery and curtains. I've learned in my lifetime of building that some things are just better left to the pros. Especially now that I'm trying to retire and spend more time killing fish and leaving tracks in the dirt.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Feb 27, 2021 14:06:23 GMT -8
There are some things that are easy the first time out, others take will. skill and time. Upholstery isn't one of my faves either. After struggling with Hamle's cushions for days, I just sent them to someone who could do them right. Money well spent.
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 1, 2021 8:39:49 GMT -8
There are some things that are easy the first time out, others take will. skill and time. Upholstery isn't one of my faves either. After struggling with Hamle's cushions for days, I just sent them to someone who could do them right. Money well spent. I enjoy doing things myself. I've just never found the time to begin learning an entirely new skill. So some things I leave to the experts. But now I'm building my own trailer and have another one to do for myself as soon as this one is finished. So if I do the upholstery and curtains my self I will be saving a lot of money. Much different when it's your own money. You'll see me doing this with the 54 Jewel and the 59 Deville. The Jewel is a frame off rebuild and the Deville will be a piece meal project..... FINALLY getting back to doing this as a hobby instead of trying to make a living off of it.
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newin62
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Post by newin62 on Mar 1, 2021 13:29:19 GMT -8
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Mar 5, 2021 6:01:52 GMT -8
There are slick curtain rod systems sold by Recmar that use extruded aluminum track and various methods of sliders to attached curtains. I plan to screw this track to the underside of a narrow open pocket shelf above the side windows, leaving a convenient place to stash keys, flashlights, etc. The aluminum can be hidden behind a valance designed into the shelf.
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