hammy
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Post by hammy on Feb 2, 2021 20:39:42 GMT -8
The wife and I have been eyeing vintage trailers for a long time... it all started with her desire to convert a vintage trailer into a mobile coffee shop. But as we searched I found myself intrigued by how unique these trailers are, and also realized that I would be ashamed of myself if I cut one up. Fast forward to last weekend. We found what seemed like a decent Shasta Airflyte fairly close to us. She wanted to go look, and we ended up purchasing it. It is a 1958 Shasta Airflyte (C11042) that is titled in California. Purchased from another young couple who said they bought it near San Diego. It appeared to be in great shape and very straight, unlike a lot of the other trailers we looked at. I do not know much about these trailers (yet), but I am assuming that it is a replica or a frame-off reconstruction. It just looks too straight to be 60 years old... The frame is freshly painted and there is new decking and laminate flooring installed. Interior paneling is in good shape, with just some slight evidence of water intrusion under the front window. There is a queen size bed frame built in the back, and there is a fresh water tank plumbed in. Also what appears to be a new 110v breaker box under the sink (no 12v system though). It seems like most of the hard work had been done already (famous last words). It was a rainy PNW day on our trip home and I quickly realized at our first stop that there were two problems. The glaring problem was the street side trailer brake. It began to make a lot of noise and heat up quite a bit. We hadn’t gotten 60 miles before it failed completely and was grinding like crazy. Yet still we limped it home since no tire shops were open at the time. The other more concerning problem was the wheel wells. Whoever had replaced the floor had mounted the wheel wells ON TOP of the flooring... and also neglected to seal them. So water was pouring in from around the wheel wells as we drove along. This issue in particular really worries me, because I do not want to have to remove the entire shell just to reconfigure the wheel wells properly. In any case, it’s ours now, and we love it, for better or worse. We haven’t the slightest idea what we are doing or where we are going, but we will figure it out as we go and make it our own. I’ve tarped it for a few days until the rain settles down (mostly out of paranoia of leaks), and we plan to get to business this weekend. I’ve only got the one photo for now, but will post more once we uncover it.  |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Feb 2, 2021 23:54:42 GMT -8
You may have something quite rare there. It is difficult to tell from just one photo, however, the side windows at the front, at the dinette, were usually fixed pane windows that were not square, and were notorious for leaking, because of their construction. It is possible that the siding (and roof from the looks of it) had been replaces with new, but if not, changing those windows would be virtually impossible. I believe it may be a "Airflyte Deluxe" model.
The part that throws me off is that I was not aware they built this model prior to the 1960 change in the front and side window design. Following the 1960 model year, those windows that push out on yours were replaced with jalousie type windows. At any rate, your VIN checks into the VIN database in the 1959 model year run, although if you have papers that it is a 1958 model, go with that, there are different explanations that could settle the discrepancy.
In any case it looks like a great find, and even if it takes some re-engineering and work, it should be a very rewarding project.
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hammy
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Post by hammy on Feb 3, 2021 7:14:13 GMT -8
Thank you for the reply, this is very helpful information! We are definitely in love with the trailer and happy that it checks out in the VIN database as a real Shasta.
The previous owner(s) have partially renovated the interior, so unfortunately not much of the original Shasta paneling remains as far as I can tell. I will post some photos today when the rain quits and we remove the tarp.
My order of priorities for repairs is as follows:
-Repair trailer brakes
-Seal around the wheel well flanges to reduce leaks
-Re-seal front window (and others if time permits)
-Fix door latch (it currently does not lock)
-Seal J/C railing around edges of tin shell
-Find a replacement window T-Handle (it is missing one on the side window of the dinette area)
I’m looking at E-trailer.com for replacement brakes, although there’s no telling what I’ll need until I remove them this week. I am also planning to use 3M 5200 or 4000 marine sealant for the wheel wells and windows.
So am I unable to remove the windows without dismantling the exterior paneling? I really want to remove them and check the weather stripping for damage/reseal everything with marine sealant.
I also need to find some weather stripping for the door, it currently does not have any. Any suggestions?
We’re hoping to get it at least livable for a camping trip in 2 weeks. We’ve got our work cut out for us!
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Feb 3, 2021 8:07:28 GMT -8
Welcome!
"Seal J/C railing around edges of tin shell"
I would strongly advise not using a goop sealer. Long term it hurts more than helps.
Buy fresh putty tape for the windows. Bytyl tape is even better than putty but harder to work with and get a clean edge. Especially when it's over 80 degrees.
I used this around a Shasta door recently with good reslts.
If you see any leaks at fixed windows you'll need this: And this may also help:
Another great resource for window gaskets: |
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Feb 3, 2021 9:30:07 GMT -8
Welcome hammy, and congrats on your new to you trailer! We, too are in the PNW (that’s Persistent, Never ending Wetness). The rain has settled down here, the Olympics are covered with snow as far down as we can see, and there are just high, thin clouds coming up from the SSW. Time to start playing with your trailer. We look forward to your progress and solutions.... and pictures!
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Post by vikx on Feb 3, 2021 21:06:47 GMT -8
Your trailer appears to have new skin. I hope the PO also did structural repairs when the orig. skin was replaced.
The windows come out very easily; unscrew the mounting screws. The same goes for most items that need new putty.
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azshastanut
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1957 Kenskill 16T
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Post by azshastanut on Feb 5, 2021 9:58:37 GMT -8
Hi Hammy, Welcome to the site. The best advice I can give you is to purchase vikx book on trailer repair/restoration complete with photos. It's a bargain at $25 and you can download it to your computer. Along with the free advice on this site, you should be well prepared for what you need to know for your vintage trailer adventure.
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hammy
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Post by hammy on Feb 10, 2021 7:00:24 GMT -8
Thanks to all for the helpful advice so far! I have ordered the vikx book which seems like a great resource. As promised, here are some additional photos of our Shasta.   As you can see, some of the window seals are in poor shape. I ordered a variety of new seals from VTS so we will be addressing that soon.   I also noticed that the front window is missing one piece of trim. I hadn’t noticed that before. The jalousie windows also don’t have any type of seal in between the glass panes. Are they supposed to? And I am missing one of the T handles for the jalousies by the dinette.   The kitchen appliances all work, which is a relief. The fit and finish of the cabinets and counter top aren’t the best, but we plan to address these issues down the road. We are looking to do a butcher block counter top and a different sink.  I don’t like how the PO situated the fresh water tank. It sits underneath the front street side dinette bench and is poorly fitted. I would really like to relocate it to underneath the trailer between the frame rails, but it is too tall to do so.  This is about the extent of water damage (as far as we can tell). There’s a slight leak on either side of the front window corners. Some mold issues near the dinette cushion.  The PO built a queen size platform in the rear of the trailer. We want to convert it to a folding or sliding frame so that we can also use it as a couch. Also the rear storage area is not currently framed in, which I would like to do soon.  This one makes me nauseous. The wheel wells sit on top of the flooring material. I am dreading what I’ll have to do to address this. For now I am just going to seal around the perimeters underneath the flange so we can use it this spring without water intrusion.  Also noticed some staining on the aluminum from water (?) on the front of the trailer above the window. Anyone have advice on how to eliminate/treat this? That is all for now. We’re going to take it on the maiden voyage this weekend, so will definitely have more photos coming soon as we discover new issues (hopefully not too many). |
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Feb 10, 2021 9:15:26 GMT -8
Our jalousies don’t have any seals between the panes. I remember seeing jalousie windows in a house we were thinking about buying, and they didn’t have any either. I see that the PO painted the side walls. You have one pic of the bed area that looks like there is some warping on the street side where the mattress would be. Did the PO provide pictures of his work? It’s such a lovely trailer, you should be able to enjoy it for many, many years!
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hammy
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Post by hammy on Feb 10, 2021 11:40:16 GMT -8
Hamlet, this is great to know. I wasn’t sure if they were supposed to have seals or not. I hadn’t noticed the warping of the paneling before, but I will look into it. The PO did not provide any photos. But the trailer is allegedly from the San Diego area. I am hoping that the repairs were done properly, but in light of the lack of foresight the builder had with the wheel wells, I am not very optimistic.
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hammy
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Post by hammy on Feb 10, 2021 12:10:08 GMT -8
I took advantage of the decent (not raining) weather to disassemble the trailer brakes. As suspected, the street side brake is completely done for.  I removed all the brake parts and disconnected the wires for now, so that it can at least tow and roll without causing further damage. I inspected the spindle and noticed there is some scoring on the tapered portion.  I am currently looking into replacement brakes on etrailer.com, but am not 100% on what I need since I’m not sure if this is the original axle or not. It is a drop spindle axle with a spring perch width of about 52”, which seems pretty uncommon. Does anyone have advice on a good source for brakes, or maybe a replacement axle? I would like to replace it with more modern technology if possible. There is also the issue of the wheels and tires. They are obviously not original, and I believe the tires are too large since they were very difficult to get back on the trailer. They barely fit between the wheel well and the hub when trying to put them back on, and took some encouragement to get back into place. Does anyone know the proper tire size for the Airflyte? I am looking at getting replacement rims from VTS, since the trailer did come with the original (?) hub caps.  While I was under there, I got another look at the poor job the PO did with the wheel well situation. The flooring is completely exposed to the elements. Very upsetting. For now, I am just going to spray it with some rubberized undercoating material to keep water out. The wheel wells are also in pretty rough shape, there are various holes from old rivets, and a 2-3 inch crack in the rear of the wheel well. I might have a friend weld it back together to keep moisture from getting into the trailer. There is also a good size gap between the wheel well and the siding material.   That is all for now. Waiting on my shipment from VTS before I get started on replacing the window seals. |
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Post by vikx on Feb 10, 2021 12:55:13 GMT -8
It doesn't look like they replaced the putty on this trailer. I don't how they would have not done that with new skins? Perhaps I was wrong about new skins. It looks VERY straight for a 58 trailer. No beauty marks at all.
The spray idea on the wheel wells will work well. Any holes can be sealed with OSI gutter seal from Lowes. (get the 5 oz tube not the caulk) The gutter seal lasts forever in that small tube.
I have a complete set of Shasta brakes that may help you. Not sure of the size. They came off a 57 Shasta 1500.
PM me for my email address or email from the book info.
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Feb 11, 2021 16:36:39 GMT -8
That doesn't seem to be scoring on the spindle, just rough machining. Pretty normal.
Also appears to be fresh wood in the sill and paneling in the wheel well pictures.
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Feb 11, 2021 17:52:52 GMT -8
Tractor Supply fence post paint will seal those plywood ends well. It's sticky and messy but does a great job. It's a cheap way to correct the problem with the wheel well install. Wear long sleeves and head and eye covering if you're a sloppy painter like me.
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Feb 13, 2021 7:32:38 GMT -8
I took advantage of the decent (not raining) weather to disassemble the trailer brakes. As suspected, the street side brake is completely done for. I removed all the brake parts and disconnected the wires for now, so that it can at least tow and roll without causing further damage. I inspected the spindle and noticed there is some scoring on the tapered portion. I am currently looking into replacement brakes on etrailer.com, but am not 100% on what I need since I’m not sure if this is the original axle or not. It is a drop spindle axle with a spring perch width of about 52”, which seems pretty uncommon. Does anyone have advice on a good source for brakes, or maybe a replacement axle? I would like to replace it with more modern technology if possible. There is also the issue of the wheels and tires. They are obviously not original, and I believe the tires are too large since they were very difficult to get back on the trailer. They barely fit between the wheel well and the hub when trying to put them back on, and took some encouragement to get back into place. Does anyone know the proper tire size for the Airflyte? I am looking at getting replacement rims from VTS, since the trailer did come with the original (?) hub caps. It would be simpler and less costly to replace the entire brake assemblies. How does the inside of the brake drum look? If it's still salvageable condition, just go for the backing plate/brake assembly. The drums is where it starts getting more pricey, but don't hesitate to replace them if in question. Better safe than sorry. Measure across the inside of your brake drum to confirm the size you need. Looks like you have a 10" brake system. Here's a couple companies I've used: R & P Carriages 10" pair
etrailer 10" brake pair
ebay (which appears to be R&P ebay store with a better price) As far as the wheels? Trailers usually have a Ford bolt pattern, so hence the use of the aluminum Ford wheel. While we're at it, bearings kit will be for a 3500# axle (1 3/8" inner / 1 1/16" outer), check your seal size before ordering, but here's an example of a "kit": Bearing KitJust my thoughts, didn't say it was a good one... Whitney |
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