Shasta Compact Wheels, Bearings and Breaks

Wheel bearings, races, and grease seals all have their part numbers clearly etched. Any auto parts store can use their bearing catalog to interchange your sample part numbers between bearing brands. Just write the numbers down while you have the hubs off during your grease repack.  Do not mix old style ball bearings with tapered bearing (called Timkin) on the same axle when replacing bearings.

Wheels come from many different sources. Here's a few, Trailer Parts Superstore, Eastern Marine, ETrailer, Vintage Trailer Supply, Jeg's, Summit Racing, and WheelSmith. Dexstar is a major player in the trailer wheel industry. Make sure you compare back spacing, and hub diameter when ordering new wheels. There's many variable's.  Compare, quality and price, some companies offer free shipping on a $100 order.  Wheels are expensive to ship. 

Trailer tires, Maxxis is a premium tire brand with very high ratings. They can be ordered from Walmart on line and shipped direct to your home. Go to a O'Reilly's, or a Autozone and buy "steel tire valves" which bolt on. Your not going to have much in quality trailer tire selection choices in that 13" size.

By the way, "breaks" are things you fix. "Brakes" are what you need to stop your trailer on the road.

John

Greetings,
Before disassembly, test your brakes to see if they are working.  You can do this by applying 12v (+ & -) to the wires coming out of the back of the brake plate (search youtube or go to etrailer for better details)
Back to brakes in a moment...

Working on a '67 Compact so might be a little more "in tune" with you on your '69.
Pull your hubs off and measure the spindle, you should have two different sized bearings on each size.  The inner bearing should be 1 3/8" (measure the spindle) and the outer will be 1 1/16".  Either do as John suggested and take your bearing to an auto parts place (like Napa)(I work at an AZ and unless you get someone like myself, might not get any help you can use) and they can cross reference the numbers found on the bearings themselves.  Don't forget a new seal.  The other suggestion would be go to a Tractor Supply, Rural King or trailer repair shop and they have the bearings listed by their ID size (1 3/8" & 1 1/16" are standard trailer bearing sizes)

Now, back to the BRAKES; I'm pretty sure (ok, so I'm not pretty, better make that fairly sure) you will have 10" brakes.  This can be confirmed by measuring across the the drum.  It will either be 10" or 12", with 13" wheels I'd put my money on 10".  Unless the brake surface and the magnet surfaces are worn bad, grooved, or have scalie rust, then they can be cleaned up with a wire wheel on a drill to be smooth and shiny.  Take a good look at the brake shoes and components.  If everything is intake and looks sound, clean, lube pivot points and go on as long as they tested correctly.
Napa usually carries parts for electric trailer brakes, however, before spending much time and money on them, you can replace the entire assembly off ebay, R&P Carriages, or etrailer for like $30-$45 a side. (did a quick check, $55 will get you both sides delivered to your door)  So, being "original" isn't that important when safety and reliability is concerned.  

Sorry for being so long winded, just trying to help...

And as always, Just my thoughts, didn't say they were good ones...
Whitney

Alot of experience on this site. I am sure people will chime in.

I check and repack once a year.
This can be done by you.
A brake tool to remove shoe springs and adjustment lever are helpful.

If you haven’t checked brakes I would replace all brake springs, pads if worn and wear on the drums (check for grooving)
Check roller bearings for play and pitting.
I clean with kerosene and brush, air compressor to blow dry.
I replay the grease seal as well.
I like lubriplate 1242 grease for bearings

If you need replacement parts and can’t find them you might be better off with a whole new assembly from a place like e-trailer.