theresa
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from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
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Post by theresa on Oct 1, 2020 8:51:04 GMT -8
For those of who who ordered new skins all the way around, did you make your baggage and door cut-outs and use the cutout "waste" to re-skin your baggage doors and entry door before painting? Or did you paint first, and then use the cut-outs to rebuild? Or did you keep your old skin on your doors and just paint them with the whole trailer? Or did you have to prime them first? Or did you order extra skin to re-skin them? Just trying to get a feel for what everyone did.... how you handled these areas.
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John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Oct 1, 2020 9:34:19 GMT -8
For those of who who ordered new skins all the way around, did you make your baggage and door cut-outs and use the cutout "waste" to re-skin your baggage doors and entry door before painting? Or did you paint first, and then use the cut-outs to rebuild? Or did you keep your old skin on your doors and just paint them with the whole trailer? Or did you have to prime them first? Or did you order extra skin to re-skin them? Just trying to get a feel for what everyone did.... how you handled these areas. In my case, I order the extra metal, it too expensive of a step to scrimp, IMO. You can usually do the storage door skin with the salvage from the upper rear skin. You only need to add maybe 24" to the side skins to have the extra for the door. I like to have the siding brake lines all align exactly. I use 1/2" plywood to make my storage doors, then I use my metal brake to bend the new metal skins around the storage door edges carefully aligning the siding brake lines taking into account the thickness of the hinge. I use "T" extrusion for the edge lips. All painting and graphics are done "before" the "polished" aluminum edge trims are installed. NOTE, for any one using a metal brake on new skins (painted, or polished). Use a extra 1/16" thick piece of aluminum angle to protect the new skins from damage during the clamping and bending process. The metal brakes have two adjustments. One is for height (metal thickness), the other is for depth (radius of the metal bend. When using the extra angle piece, just move the bending shoes back a little so you do not cut/crack the metal skins by making too sharp of a bend. It's VERY IMPORTANT to make sure you get the siding brake lines to match (height wise) on both sides of the trailer. You might ask, who's quick enough to see both sides at the same time? The problem comes up when you begin to lay out your graphic paint lines. If the sides are off (even slightly) the graphics do not align at the corners. Just take your time, a laser level is your friend, it's a important step. John |
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theresa
1K Member
from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
Posts: 1,055
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Post by theresa on Oct 1, 2020 13:41:10 GMT -8
I didn't necessarily intend to scrimp on this extra step. When I initially contacted Steve @ Hemet, I did mention that I wanted enough for the door. But in subsequent conversations with him, I guess this detail got missed by him, and forgotten by me. The metal is already here and ready to put on. So at this point I'd be held up considerably to place another order.
Another thought... did the baggage doors always have a "backer"? Mine when I got them were just the skin and aluminum edge frame. Is this something people add to stiffen them up, or did mine (1960 Airflyte) originally have it and the PO removed it at some point? I do believe there might have been some thick blue board stuffed in there when I got them and they were screwed shut.
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