Where to attach jacks?

It looks to be a ......."very flexible" frame? Maybe only 2" by 2" square tubing, has no rear cross member, the tubular rear bumper does not add any structure to the frame the way it's bolted on. It's difficult to build strength into any "step down" frame. Any idea what the wall thickness is of the main rails? They will be either 1/8", or hopefully it's 3/16" thick metal.

The body of a camper trailer is a major part of the trailers overall strength, think of vehicles with "frameless" unibody construction. Which is why we hammer so hard on how the wall skins are connected to the floor and skirt framing. The reason that trailer doors fly open going down the freeway is because of the lack of structural integrity between the steel frame flex and the wood body. We ask a lot of a door jam when it's attached to a flexible frame. Walk over to your frame, and lift any corner, you will be shocked at how much it flexes. This is the very same force the trailer will see each time you screw down your stabilizer jacks. Don't get me wrong, I love four corner mounted stabilizers on a camper trailer. They are convenient to use, and are frame mounted instead of something more to load into your truck. I have four on my current "work in progress" a 1957 Aljo build.

Here's your challenge. The stabilizers "when fully retracted" are going to eat up 5" of height. You are going to need to figure out some kind of mounting plate system on your frame that tucks the stabilizers up under the frame (remember you have only two inches to play with) to maintain as much space as possible so they do not drag the ground at every driveway curb. You trailer sits much lower than mine.

For easy access, you want the screw bolt at the extreme outside corner. I mount mine at a 45 degree angle to the frame. This way the four jacks work against each other to eliminate side and front sway. I would never recommend that they be welded on. If you ever damage one, it's easy to replace if they are bolted on.

The first step I would suggest is to weld a 3/16" thick rear cross member to the frame rails. The cross member should extend all the way out past the frame rails to support and tie in the wall skirt boards. It's going to be 6 1/2 to 7 foot wide depending on the trailer. Tie a center rail (like they did in the front) into the rear cross member of the frame that supports your add-on rear bumper. building a receiver hitch into the rear of the trailer frame for a rack would likely be more useable accessory than your tube bumper. You need to figure out a way to put some stiffness into that frame before you worry about adding corner stabilizers, just my opinion.

Lots to think about.

John

I have used the "bolt on" BAL brand single arm stabilizer on a couple of trailers and really like them because they retract to a low height which gives you more ground clearance during travel.  They have proven very durable, for the past five years on my 24' Spartan.  But, I don't see them listed on VTS any longer.

I have mounted four or five sets of the HF scissor jack/stabilizers.  They work well, but they still have a five inch retracted height. which creates a "ground clearance" challenge on a small or a low framed trailer.

Camping on a very uneven camp site is tough.  Make sure that you also have a stable "flat and level" step.  It's very easy to twist an ankle getting out of a trailer when the step is not level.  No point interrupting your camping trip with a trip to the emergency room.

John

I am also considering leveling scissor jacks. I don't really want to mount them to the frame. My original pyramid type jacks do well to stabilize my trailer but if we're on a sideways hill they do nothing to lift and level. I'm considering buying two rv leveling scissor jacks and just hauling them with my two original jacks and use the scissors jacks to lift up the down side. Would be interested to know if the single drop arm jacks do anything to level the trailer.

The four, screw type "single arm" BAL brand "T" style stabilizer jacks I have installed on my 5000# 24' long Spartan for the past four years, are strong enough to raise a wheel off the ground, and to be able to change a flat tire.

Since the four stabilizers are independently adjusted, you can level the trailer in any direction, front to rear, side to side, or any direction in between. All that's required is a battery powered hand held screw gun and a 3/4" socket.

The only problem, I cannot find a source to purchase the BAL brand "T" style stabilizers any longer. They have dropped off the BAL site.

John

Let me point out that the BAL stabilizer model I like, are their (discontinued?) "T" type which have a side support built into the stabilizer.  IMO, this feature is important on the larger "riveted trailers", I work on.  They evidently have re-engineered the "T" type, into a new style "C" (channel) type stabilizer.  IMO, it just does not look as strong, but they still offer this stabilizer in different lengths with  3000# to 5000# weight ratings.  Even if you used one of the lightest rated (3000#) on each corner, you would have more than enough strength on a small trailer. 

I like to fabricate my trailer frames to mount my stabilizers at a 45 degree angle to the frame corner.  This forces each of the four stabilizers to push in against each other and further reduce side sway. 

One good change is the "T" type was sourced "off shore" (I believe), but now they promote that their new "C" type is made in the U.S.A. 

You are correct, they are not cheap.  But they are sure nice, and have held up very well.  Even if you go the Harbor Freight scissors style like I did on my current '57 Aljo build, your looking at over $125 for four. 

I like Vikx idea of using "junk yard" scissors jacks.  They might help you over come the height issue and let you fabricate a frame mounting that would tuck them up under your low trailer.


John