pwrichmond
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Ace Heart
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Post by pwrichmond on Sept 30, 2020 10:39:13 GMT -8
Hello, work progresses on my ACE of hearts camper, after replacing almost all the frame, and putting on new skin, I am about to start with the J rail, however, originally the camper had cap rail, and the canopy rail looks like this  IMG_0960 by Paul Richmond, on Flickr  IMG_0961 by Paul Richmond, on Flickr So, I can't or shouldn't put this back on the same way, can I straighten it, so it goes on like the J rail, other alternatives? Thanks! |
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Post by vikx on Sept 30, 2020 11:03:59 GMT -8
If your roof skin is new, I would buy new awning rail and mount at the side rather than the roof. It goes on exactly like the J rail. I have had a couple of trailers with the awning rail mounted on top and worried about the screw holes eventually leaking. Putty can fail and they are leaks waiting to happen.
If you are using the original roof metal, then the rail must be mounted on top to seal the old holes.
I don't think you can straighten extruded awning rail but it is not expensive to replace. (minor tweaks can be done but not the whole flange)
NOTE: If the roof metal doesn't overlap the siding, you will have to use the cap rail. I'm hoping your roof does overlap.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 30, 2020 15:48:33 GMT -8
If your roof skin is new, I would buy new awning rail and mount at the side rather than the roof. It goes on exactly like the J rail. I have had a couple of trailers with the awning rail mounted on top and worried about the screw holes eventually leaking. Putty can fail and they are leaks waiting to happen. If you are using the original roof metal, then the rail must be mounted on top to seal the old holes. I don't think you can straighten extruded awning rail but it is not expensive to replace. (minor tweaks can be done but not the whole flange) NOTE: If the roof metal doesn't overlap the siding, you will have to use the cap rail. I'm hoping your roof does overlap. X2, Wise advice. John |
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pwrichmond
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Post by pwrichmond on Oct 1, 2020 3:42:03 GMT -8
Yes, my new roof overlaps (most all the rot I encountered was caused by the cap rail), I didn't realize I could get new awning rail but I see it now at vintage trailer supply, they have 90 and 45 degree, I think 90 would be the appropriate choice?
Thanks!
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Oct 1, 2020 8:25:36 GMT -8
Awning rails come in many different configurations. Most canned ham trailers use a side mounted rail, and 90 degree is the most common slot angle.
The rails are extruded in 12' lengths (some come even longer) because you want the rail to extend at least a foot past your awning on each side. This makes it easier to install the awning, and gives you some adjustability to move the awning for better sun shade angle. A common awning width for a small/medium sized trailer is 8' to 10' wide. The actual width is dictated by the amount of curve of your trailer's roof.
Here's the challenge, if at all remotely possible, you want a one piece awning rail, NO SEAMS! The rails fill up with dirt which makes sliding a true "rope rail canvass" awning difficult. Extra seams tear the canvass and make for difficult usability. Using a plastic rail insert sewn to your awning helps, but extra seams in the rail is not a good plan. Unfortunately FedEx/UPS will only accept 96" maximum sized shipping packages, so the internet vendors are required to cut down the rails for shipment.
If you cannot locate a "local to you" RV parts store, or a RV trailer repair shop that stocks replacement rails, I would locate a used rail. It does not need to be off of a vintage trailer. Boats/motorhomes/truck campers all used these for the past 100 years. The used and oxidized salvaged ones can be sanded and polished to a chrome like finish. They can be annealed and reshaped to your roof contour. Note, it's always easier to add more radius, NOT remove too much radius. Find one that's not pitted, and fairly straight, and get busy.
John
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pwrichmond
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Post by pwrichmond on Oct 7, 2020 3:51:23 GMT -8
Thanks for the info and advice, I only need a piece 81 inches
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Oct 7, 2020 9:28:30 GMT -8
Thanks for the info and advice, I only need a piece 81 inches If you require a 81" "straight" awning rail piece, YOUR GOLDEN, because it will fall with in the shipping limits. If you need a "bent" piece 81" long your going to have a problem. You need about one foot of "salvage" on each end of the new awning extrusion in order to be able to use the leverage to bend it. In other words, you cannot bend right to the end. Any time you bend a awning rail for a common "canned ham" trailer, give yourself a break and make sure the new awning rail is two feet longer than your finished size. It's best (easiest) to anneal the rail extrusion before trying to shape it. John |
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