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Post by wisconsinjoe on Sept 18, 2020 9:30:34 GMT -8
I cannot imagine doing work on a camper without a bandsaw. Yes, you might say a hand held jig saw is fine. But I much prefer a bandsaw. First, a jigsaw needs to have the finished side on the bottom because the top side will always chip as the blade lifts toward the top. Yes, you can get down-cutting blades, but I don't like how it lifts the saw, forcing you to push harder on the material. Also, the chips and dust always obscure my drawn cut line. With a bandsaw and a fine 1/4" blade, you cut with the finish side of material up, and because the blade is cutting down, it takes the dust and chips with it. And since the material is supported from the table, chips on the back side are minimized. I like how I can move material through it slowly and accurately. And unlike a jig saw, the curved cuts are cut at 90 degrees, while the jig saw always seems to slant out of 90 degrees on the curves. That can cause problems if you are making templates from thicker plywood where the profiles of the sides don't really match. In my shop I've got two saws, a wide blade 18 inch re-saw and a smaller 14 inch one with a narrower blade to cut curves. The Grizzly one that I use the most cost upwards of $400. However, I once had a job where I needed to scribe some crown molding in a kitchen I was building and didn't want to have to travel between job and shop for cutting the curving trim pieces. So, I bought this cheap table top 10 inch version for under $100 that is small and light enough to take to the job. I don't use it in my shop, but it certainly can do everything I have asked the Grizzly to do. Plus, I think of the bandsaw as the safest cutting tool in the shop. There is no way that it can kick back the wood in a dangerous situation. I can get fingers relatively close to the blade without fear. The worst thing that can happen (other than pure inattention stupidity) is having a blade break. It'll make you jump, but rarely will hurt you because is just stops moving.  20200912_144603 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr BTW, bandsaws are easily found used on Craigslist. I'd used a $50 12-inch Sears for years before I upgraded. Just get a decent blade and you are set. |
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Post by vikx on Sept 18, 2020 11:28:32 GMT -8
I am so not talented when it comes to bandsaws. I've used mine to try and curve 3/4" stock to fit and it just doesn't cut where I want it to go. Even when going slow, the blade wanders and/or bends, seeming to fight the desired cut. My new blade is 3/8".
Will a bandsaw cut 1 by material accurately? Do I need a skinnier blade?
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 18, 2020 13:57:41 GMT -8
I am so not talented when it comes to bandsaws. I've used mine to try and curve 3/4" stock to fit and it just doesn't cut where I want it to go. Even when going slow, the blade wanders and/or bends, seeming to fight the desired cut. My new blade is 3/8". Will a bandsaw cut 1 by material accurately? Do I need a skinnier blade? Maybe you have the guide adjusted "too high". Look at "Joe's" photo above, and see how high the blade guide is adjusted, it's up for about three inch wood. Lower the guide down to about 1" high if you plan to cut 3/4" thick wood. The rollers will keep the blade from twisting, making your cut much more accurate. Also, always use the better Bi-Metal blades. If you ever try to cut some sheet metal with a wood blade it will be toast. Bi-metal is a good general shop choice. Unless you like switching back and forth, just run a fine tooth blade. It cuts metal, and you just have to slow down when cutting wood. John |
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Sept 18, 2020 14:56:59 GMT -8
Vikx, kind of a loaded question. There are several reasons you could be having a problem. Guides. tires on the wheel properly crowned. Enough tension on the blade. Blade. I cut some small curves with a 1/4" blade all the time.
There is no substitute for experience when tuning/using a band saw. I think most people struggle at first till they learn how to adjust them and there is lots of advice out there that I really disagree with. Many people make it harder than it really is and get over technical in my opinion. It took me a little while but the biggest issue was the 'Loose Nut' operating it.
A common mistake I see is people twisting the blade by not feeding the material in properly. You have to pivot the wood properly or you start to force the blade to bend. Try to estimate where the center point of the radius you are cutting is and 'spin' the wood around that enter point. Hard to explain but makes a HUGE difference in cutting cures.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Sept 18, 2020 15:13:11 GMT -8
Wandering blade is usually fixed with a new 1/4 inch blade. 3/8 is too fat for most curves
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Post by danrhodes on Sept 18, 2020 19:09:27 GMT -8
I am so not talented when it comes to bandsaws. I've used mine to try and curve 3/4" stock to fit and it just doesn't cut where I want it to go. Even when going slow, the blade wanders and/or bends, seeming to fight the desired cut. My new blade is 3/8". Will a bandsaw cut 1 by material accurately? Do I need a skinnier blade? Do you have a bench top band saw with skinny blade? That's what I have a have the same issues. I believe a free standing saw with a wider blade is what you need for straighter cuts. |
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Post by vikx on Sept 18, 2020 19:57:06 GMT -8
Thanks everyone. I'll try some fixes and see how I do. It's a learning curve for sure. Not fond of that bandsaw...
Dan, it is a freestanding unit with a new 3/8 blade. Also has a new blue tire (fancy material) I think the problem is ME rather than the saw. Adjustments will help with practice, practice, practice.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Sept 19, 2020 4:27:07 GMT -8
A pretty common trick to get smoother turns on a band saw is to take a fine tooth file to the back edges of the blade while the saw is running.. you just want to remove the sharp edges on the back of the blade. It only takes a few seconds on each side of the back and the difference is obvious.
Also remember "the speed of the feed".. too fast and the blade can't follow the curve, too slow and the cut can be rough, even leave burn marks.
That said, a dull blade is the most common reason for errant blade wandering.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Sept 19, 2020 6:00:43 GMT -8
Do you have a bench top band saw with skinny blade? That's what I have a have the same issues. I believe a free standing saw with a wider blade is what you need for straighter cuts. The wider the blade the straighter the cut. I keep a 1 inch blade on the big saw for '"re-sawing" boards into thinner boards (before final thickness on the planer). But my smaller saw has a 1/4 inch blade that works great, even 1-1/2" stock. A new blade does wonders, as does keeping the tension fairly high so it doesn't have room to bend on curves. I just changed to a new blade because I was wandering a bit. Fixed it immediately. If a new one is still wandering, it probably is not tight enough. |
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Sept 19, 2020 6:03:50 GMT -8
Dan, it is a freestanding unit with a new 3/8 blade. Also has a new blue tire (fancy material) I think the problem is ME rather than the saw. Adjustments will help with practice, practice, practice. It's the 3/8 inch blade. Go to a quarter inch. World of difference. |
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Sept 19, 2020 6:05:29 GMT -8
And, what Kirkadie said: Back sand the running blade.
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Post by vikx on Sept 19, 2020 9:56:36 GMT -8
Off to the wood shop to fix the bandsaw...
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sawset
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Post by sawset on Sept 21, 2020 5:03:03 GMT -8
One thing is, cost shouldn't be a deterrent to getting setup with a band saw. Space either. $25 for a rummage sale old sears bench top does fine here, takes little space, is portable for the garage, basement or jobsite, uses inexpensive blades that aren't real long, and makes quick work of contour work. Very nice to have, and was used quite a lot on building up trailer frameworks.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Nov 12, 2020 6:05:35 GMT -8
Interesting discovery about the bandsaw. After extolling its virtues and wondering why some had trouble cutting with it, I used it to cut a few L-shapes of VCT (vinyl composition tile) on about 4 tiles. Cut like butter. No more than 2 linear feet. Later, when trying to cut a piece of plywood, I could not cut a straight line. Seems like the tile, which apparently is made from ground up limestone, seriously dulled it. So, if you are having problems AND you cut some tiles, beware. But, $10 later and its back to its glory.
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