PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Aug 18, 2020 19:26:45 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Aug 18, 2020 19:42:29 GMT -8
Thanks for the tip. I like both but will try the impact driver on my stainless screws. They are SO easy to bung up.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 19, 2020 4:17:38 GMT -8
What would have happened if your buddy hadn't suggested the impact driver... Where would you be now? LOL.
Did you put the putty tape down on the shelf first, or did you adhere the putty tape to the underside of the steel window frame first?
This is gonna be great, PT!
BTW, loving the open land and the hills in the distance with the clouds in the back ground of your first picture.
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PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Aug 19, 2020 7:45:00 GMT -8
I'm not sure I was exaggerating when I said I was going to cry... :-) ... putty tape on the frame.
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Aug 22, 2020 5:05:22 GMT -8
Thanks for the tip. I like both but will try the impact driver on my stainless screws. They are SO easy to bung up. What I don't understand about stainless, tough as the dickens to cut with a saw, but soft as cow butter when screwing in (round out the heads) and easy to twist off.  |
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Post by vikx on Aug 22, 2020 9:28:17 GMT -8
And expensive too...
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Aug 24, 2020 19:33:31 GMT -8
I guess with using either, especially the impact driver, is knowing WHEN to let off the trigger.
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PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Aug 24, 2020 20:07:50 GMT -8
On the final screw I drove into the HH window frame the end of the Phillips impact driver BIT broke off before the SS Phillips pan head stripped... swear to god... the physics of the impact driver is totally different. The tool sends the force down into the screw and keeps you from having to press down with crazy force to to keep things from stripping. But yes - don't over tighten or something will break - just not necessarily the screw!
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Post by vikx on Aug 24, 2020 21:59:44 GMT -8
Be my luck I'd slip and stab a hole in the new skin... Wonder how I know that?
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nate
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1963 Comet 17'
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Post by nate on Sept 17, 2020 4:53:29 GMT -8
Be my luck I'd slip and stab a hole in the new skin... Wonder how I know that? I just did this TWICE putting on the drip rail. Pretty sure I invented some new curse words at that point. My main driver is a Milwaukee impact driver. It's lighter, shorter, and more powerful. |
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 21, 2020 3:55:44 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
Would an impact driver make a difference when drilling holes into the ends of the steel outriggers on the trailer frame?
Rod
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Post by danrhodes on Sept 21, 2020 7:00:09 GMT -8
An impact driver is not really used with drill bits, that's why they are often sold along with a drill in a set. Outrigger steel is hard, so you need a sharp bit, keep it well lubricated and go slow so you don't burn your bits. I had a few holes to drill and by the end lost my patience and totally destroyed my bit on one hole.
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Sept 23, 2020 19:21:05 GMT -8
An impact driver is not really used with drill bits, that's why they are often sold along with a drill in a set. Outrigger steel is hard, so you need a sharp bit, keep it well lubricated and go slow so you don't burn your bits. I had a few holes to drill and by the end lost my patience and totally destroyed my bit on one hole. I agree. If you are needing to drill UP into metal framework, and if I have more than one hole to drill, I put a block of wood / jack stand / scissor jack or something that is a close to the height of the bottom of the drill. Then use a prybar to gently apply pressure up on the back of the drill so I'm not having to muscle it. Hope that made sense.  |
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oldtrailer
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Post by oldtrailer on Oct 9, 2021 18:34:11 GMT -8
Drilling through steel is always better with regular drills. Although they make bit driver drill bits but I've never used them. As previously metioned slow speed and lubrication are key, plus cleaning out the shavings when drilling hard steel.
Tap magic is a good cooling lube along with the cooling drill pastes that stick to the bit. Viking make great bits for drilling through hard steel. They cost more and you have to buy them online. But US made with US steel.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Oct 12, 2021 15:34:53 GMT -8
What I don't understand about stainless, tough as the dickens to cut with a saw, but soft as cow butter when screwing in (round out the heads) and easy to twist off. Completely agree. After buggering up a few nice and expensive square head stainless steel screws, I tried my impact driver and they went in flawlessly. Was a bit worried about breaking them, but learned to back off when the putty squeezed out forcefully. |
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