Kyla
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Post by Kyla on Aug 4, 2020 0:31:17 GMT -8
I've spent way too much time on YouTube looking for a good tutorial on flooring repair. Any suggestions/links?
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datac
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Post by datac on Aug 4, 2020 9:02:13 GMT -8
What sort of floor are you working on?
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57 Trotwood
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Post by 57 Trotwood on Aug 4, 2020 10:06:08 GMT -8
I do all of my own work, basically everything but since I purchased a roll of FORBO flooring I hired a pro that has actually went to FORBO for their install course and he is certified to lay their floor. The FORBO flooring gets set down into wet adhesive. It should be a breeze for the installer since the walls are not up yet. The only cuts are around the wheel wells. Then I can put the walls up and get moving. So , some floors are worth hiring out to do.
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datac
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Post by datac on Aug 4, 2020 10:23:56 GMT -8
I installed Forbo Marmoleum on my own, after two of the local certified contractors flaked out. It was surprisingly not that difficult. Marmoleum is easily my very favorite choice for flooring in vintage trailers, and is the same stuff that was installed in many of them when new. In fact, the pattern that I chose is very close to the original flooring in my Cardinal. Do not confuse Forbo Marmoleum with vinyl, they are radically different products.
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Kyla
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Post by Kyla on Aug 4, 2020 12:59:51 GMT -8
Gorgeous Marmoleum, howeeeever, I'm afraid misspoke.
I meant "sub-floor" repair.
I've stripped up the old linoleum (no easy task) and now I'm wondering if I need to replace sub-flooring/wood rot below. I'm not sure how to test that, other than to tell you I have a generally "spongy" floor. And if I need to replace rot, how to do so?
Yes, I 'm a total neophyte. But I'm determined! Thanks all!
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datac
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Post by datac on Aug 4, 2020 13:39:55 GMT -8
Ah, big difference. If you have rot or sponginess, that will obviously need attention, but more to the point it's probable that the rot won't stop with the floor. It's possible to do patch repairs on floors, sometimes, with varying degrees of success, but you need to determine the extent of the damage first.
If you're new to old trailers, an excellent place to start is with mobiltec's videos on YouTube and with vikx's book. They're both members of this forum, and are both very helpful. The first step when starting with an old trailer is usually lifting the skins, so as to determine the extent of the damage (and there will be damage, not to frighten you). That little spot of condensation damage you see inside is almost certainly hiding something that needs serious attention.
My floor was basically sound, not much in the way of rot or soft spots. There was a very small strip next to the front door, maybe 1" deep and completely covered by the threshold trim that was soft, and a spot at the front of the trailer inside one of the dinette benches where someone had apparently stepped where they shouldn't have and broke the floor, but that was it. All set for a couple of patches, right? Not so fast. I lifted the skins and found that the door side sill (the bottom of the framing that the floor sits on) was almost completely rotted, along with half of the street side. This is typical. I had to cut the good floor around the edges to get access to the sills that needed replaced, and then replaced the entire floor. It's all doable, but you don't want to make repairs that are covering up bigger damage underneath.
Short answer- if you haven't done it already, lift the skins and assess the condition of the entire trailer before planning repairs. You may already know this, but don't let anyone tell you that it's possible to safely repair an old trailer from the inside without lifting the skins.
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sunnywater
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Post by sunnywater on Aug 4, 2020 13:46:02 GMT -8
Gorgeous Marmoleum, howeeeever, I'm afraid misspoke. I meant "sub-floor" repair. I've stripped up the old linoleum (no easy task) and now I'm wondering if I need to replace sub-flooring/wood rot below. I'm not sure how to test that, other than to tell you I have a generally "spongy" floor. And if I need to replace rot, how to do so? Yes, I 'm a total neophyte. But I'm determined! Thanks all! Larry's (mobiltec) videos on YouTube under the "Restoring the Shasta, Installing the New Floor" covers a partial repair of subfloor. There are several videos in the Restoring the Shasta series. The floor starts with episode 3a. Gwen
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datac
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Post by datac on Aug 4, 2020 13:48:04 GMT -8
Also, many old trailers were pretty underbuilt- I'm a big guy, and even the solid parts of my floor had more give to them than I'd prefer. When I took it apart I found that the floor was comprised of 1/2" plywood over a layer of 1/4" Masonite, which is both heavy and not particularly stiff. I replaced it with 3/4" MDO, which is a lightweight, very stiff, and water resistant product originally designed for highway signs, sometimes used instead of marine ply for boatbuilding. It's rock solid now, and as a bonus I saved a significant amount of weight.
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Kyla
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Post by Kyla on Aug 4, 2020 16:18:22 GMT -8
Good advice, datac! Thank you. I have stripped the skin (all 700 hex screws!) and am moving to the floors, then frame, then interior walls. This collage shows the floor above, as well as a series of pics from underneath. Underneath the trailer, I found a sort of particle board that was sagging in many places. Once I peeled that way, as well as the insulation, in a front corner, the wood seemed in good shape. I'm still not sure if I should attack this issue from the top, by removing the floor with a skill saw, or from below. Totally baffled. P.S. I have VK Lee's book, "Vintage Trailer Report, Order of Build..." and will check out the mobiltec videos now. Thanks again.
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datac
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Post by datac on Aug 4, 2020 17:16:01 GMT -8
That particle board stuff is Celotex, and was commonly used under the plywood floor as a sort of marginal moisture protection/insulation solution, primarily because it was cheap.
If the sills are in good shape, you have a choice to make- either do patch repairs if you have small areas of localized damage, or, if the whole thing is damaged or springy due to being underbuilt from the factory, replacing the whole thing. Replacing the floor is done from the inside after removing all of the cabinets that sit on the floor (either while removing the walls or after adding cribbing to replace the structure that the cabinets provided. My method was extreme overkill but worked well- with the cabinets out I made a pattern for the new floor by gluing together pieces of cheap door skin with construction adhesive, and then using that pattern to build a new floor outside the trailer. I biscuit joined the MDO so that there was no seam, which made it even stiffer, and even trimmed the Marmoleum to fit while the floor was outside the trailer, which was much easier than trimming the very stiff linoleum inside the trailer. The floor fit perfectly.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 4, 2020 21:35:33 GMT -8
Datac,' This is brilliant! Nice job thinking out of the box, no pun intended. I have never seen your cribbing technique or integrated wall supports outside and up on top of the "box". If one has the height space, it's definately easier to work with - seems like anyway.
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datac
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Post by datac on Aug 5, 2020 7:05:20 GMT -8
Thanks, Rod! As you can see I don't have much in the way of width in my workspaces, which prevented me from removing the walls altogether as I probably would have otherwise. I started to do the usual crossbracing through the middle, but really didn't like the idea of a jungle gym right where I was going to be working. There's no way I could have done my pre-joined one piece floor while maneuvering through that. This worked very nicely.
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57 Trotwood
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Post by 57 Trotwood on Aug 5, 2020 8:22:49 GMT -8
Datac, You didnt have any trouble keeping the adhesive wet while set it. Of course cut and fit the wheels first then roll it back and spread the adhesive then lay it down and roll it. I have a retired guy that said $150 to lay it but I am not sure now. He said yes its heavy and for an old guy, I said I could help and said that would be great. I think I may do it myself too.
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Kyla
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Post by Kyla on Aug 5, 2020 9:06:01 GMT -8
Uh...what's a "sill"?
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Post by vikx on Aug 5, 2020 9:36:52 GMT -8
Sills are the lower boards on the edge of the trailer. They run down each side. There are joists or "runners" in the middle of the trailer as well.
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