Post by tpcm5000 on Jun 2, 2020 8:32:59 GMT -8
From the looks of it, my ceiling was assembled in typical fashion. I now need to reassemble and could use some guidance on alternatives. Here are my assumptions and a few questions. Thank you in advance for the help.
1. Shellac panels.
2. Start with any cutouts for vents and such, and glue any rafters to the paneling that will not be on a seam. I am assuming I want to avoid any brads or tacks going through the paneling if not on a seam.
3. Attach ceiling panels to the top of the walls and to any cabinetry it covers. The original build used 1 3/16" brads, looks a bit long for 1/4" paneling, but I have 1 1/4" and 5/8" on hand, so was going to go with the 1 1/4" brads.
4. I can then staple to any seams, then cover with screen molding. The original build used 3/4" staples, I have 9/16" and 1/2" on hand, so was going to go with the 9/16". For the screen molding I gather I can go 5/8" brads given they won't be holding much.
5. Next the curbing, which used 3" nails down into the walls, and 2" nails into the rafters.
Question: can I use screws instead of nails to attach curbing, seems like they would be stronger? I have #10 3 1/8" all purpose screws on hand.
6. Attach rafters to curbing/walls. The original build had toenails from the rafters into the wall I think (the wall is 2" so the rafter should overlap the wall by an inch as the curbing is 1", so in principle a toenail from the rafter should not grab the curbing just the wall). And as I mention above, 2" nails go from the curbing into the rafters.
Question: rather than go with toenails at all, can I go with my #10 3 1/8" all purpose screws through the curbing into the rafter?
For 5 and 6, drill pilot holes to avoid splitting, and maybe the picture below will help explain my question on the alternative I am considering.
Thanks to Bev for this quote, "A real rough rule of thumb is you should penetrate the "holding substrate" by twice the thickness of what your holding.", and Larry for the many helpful tutorials.
rafter1options by Tom Myers, on Flickr
1. Shellac panels.
2. Start with any cutouts for vents and such, and glue any rafters to the paneling that will not be on a seam. I am assuming I want to avoid any brads or tacks going through the paneling if not on a seam.
3. Attach ceiling panels to the top of the walls and to any cabinetry it covers. The original build used 1 3/16" brads, looks a bit long for 1/4" paneling, but I have 1 1/4" and 5/8" on hand, so was going to go with the 1 1/4" brads.
4. I can then staple to any seams, then cover with screen molding. The original build used 3/4" staples, I have 9/16" and 1/2" on hand, so was going to go with the 9/16". For the screen molding I gather I can go 5/8" brads given they won't be holding much.
5. Next the curbing, which used 3" nails down into the walls, and 2" nails into the rafters.
Question: can I use screws instead of nails to attach curbing, seems like they would be stronger? I have #10 3 1/8" all purpose screws on hand.
6. Attach rafters to curbing/walls. The original build had toenails from the rafters into the wall I think (the wall is 2" so the rafter should overlap the wall by an inch as the curbing is 1", so in principle a toenail from the rafter should not grab the curbing just the wall). And as I mention above, 2" nails go from the curbing into the rafters.
Question: rather than go with toenails at all, can I go with my #10 3 1/8" all purpose screws through the curbing into the rafter?
For 5 and 6, drill pilot holes to avoid splitting, and maybe the picture below will help explain my question on the alternative I am considering.
Thanks to Bev for this quote, "A real rough rule of thumb is you should penetrate the "holding substrate" by twice the thickness of what your holding.", and Larry for the many helpful tutorials.
rafter1options by Tom Myers, on Flickr
