theresa
1K Member
from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
Posts: 1,055 
Likes: 347
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Post by theresa on May 7, 2020 7:37:33 GMT -8
I didn't have much left in the corners of my '60. There was nothing for a template. As a result, my side walls ended up a little long and I'm really worried about the skin going back on.
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Post by vikx on May 7, 2020 11:04:21 GMT -8
How much too long? Can you belt sand the frame to match your skins? If they are too long, you may need new skins. I ended up buying metal for my Corvette when I built it just 3/16" too wide. Of course, on the sides, you might be able to fudge a little bit (1/8 on either end?). You will need to be sure your front and rear metal have enough fold over to cover any metal gaps. A 57 Shasta usually has L rail about window level down front and rear; you want to seal the butt joint before putty and trim. I added very thin metal flashing to my 57 at the L rail points. There was a 1/2" gap at both back sides, typical Shasta. If you want pix, email me or check out the albums here: 1957shasta.shutterfly.com/ Click on Pictures. |
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theresa
1K Member
from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 347
Currently Offline
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Post by theresa on May 8, 2020 6:32:09 GMT -8
How much too long? Can you belt sand the frame to match your skins? If they are too long, you may need new skins. I ended up buying metal for my Corvette when I built it just 3/16" too wide. Of course, on the sides, you might be able to fudge a little bit (1/8 on either end?). You will need to be sure your front and rear metal have enough fold over to cover any metal gaps. A 57 Shasta usually has L rail about window level down front and rear; you want to seal the butt joint before putty and trim. I added very thin metal flashing to my 57 at the L rail points. There was a 1/2" gap at both back sides, typical Shasta. If you want pix, email me or check out the albums here: 1957shasta.shutterfly.com/ Click on Pictures. It wasn't HORRIBLY long, but I didn't realize it until I already had my rafters/cross beams glued and screwed onto new panels. So removing them and sanding wasn't an option. I AM putting on a new roof piece, which I can cut to any width, so I'll have plenty of fold-over there. Just out of curiosity, anyone know about how much a whole new set of skins costs for a trailer Airflyte length? Shipped? |
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nccamper
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Posts: 7,744 
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
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Post by nccamper on May 8, 2020 8:44:23 GMT -8
How much too long? Can you belt sand the frame to match your skins? If they are too long, you may need new skins. I ended up buying metal for my Corvette when I built it just 3/16" too wide. Of course, on the sides, you might be able to fudge a little bit (1/8 on either end?). You will need to be sure your front and rear metal have enough fold over to cover any metal gaps. A 57 Shasta usually has L rail about window level down front and rear; you want to seal the butt joint before putty and trim. I added very thin metal flashing to my 57 at the L rail points. There was a 1/2" gap at both back sides, typical Shasta. If you want pix, email me or check out the albums here: 1957shasta.shutterfly.com/ Click on Pictures. It wasn't HORRIBLY long, but I didn't realize it until I already had my rafters/cross beams glued and screwed onto new panels. So removing them and sanding wasn't an option. I AM putting on a new roof piece, which I can cut to any width, so I'll have plenty of fold-over there. Just out of curiosity, anyone know about how much a whole new set of skins costs for a trailer Airflyte length? Shipped? Hemet valley RV for a 1959 Airflyte shipped to NC was about $2200 for the heavier .03 aluminum, not including jrail. New skin is expensive but saves you a lot of time and looks great. It comes with a polar white paint job that that looks good but is not incredibly durable. |
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