wenos
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69' Bell
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Post by wenos on Apr 23, 2020 12:58:56 GMT -8
I have a question regarding replacing the Complete axel, I have searched the obvious forms but not found the answer Iām looking for.. it has a Hadco brake system that I canāt get to work. I asked the guys at Etrailer about getting a new brake system, but they more or less said if I get new brakes I will have to replace the axel for it to be compatible , In your experience is this correct and do you have any suggestions on axel replacement
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Apr 23, 2020 17:16:40 GMT -8
A lot of times itās just cheaper to replace the axel especially if your dealing with some parts that are no longer available or just hard to find. Whatās your tow vehicle and do you even need the brakes. Vehicles and brakes systems are a lot better now a days than they were in 1969. My Chevy full size pulls my 65 Shasta fine without the brakes. They are there but I donāt use them. I just donāt like the fact of all that heat under the trailer. If they were disc brakes it would be a different story.
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Post by Teachndad on Apr 25, 2020 5:08:10 GMT -8
Hello and Welcome Wenos, Before you go and replace the original axle, read this thread. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/6477/hadco-modern-grease-seal-numberIt's got contact information for someone named Adele at Hadco Engineering. I suggest you contact her and see what they say. Maybe you will get lucky. That thread is a few years old, so who knows if that person still works there. When you say you can't get the brakes to work, can you be more specific? Are they getting electricity or are they getting electricity and not expanding to the drums? If you can, maybe a picture or two might help. Cheers, Rod
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wenos
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69' Bell
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Post by wenos on May 2, 2020 12:23:17 GMT -8
Thanks for the info guys, I tried Hadco engineering, but the no longer stock it anymore. As for the brake system itself the wires are all corroded and the mechanism is rusted out. My tow vehicle has a 3500lbs capacity, with my trailer (Dry) coming in at 2740Lbs. I have towed it to Banff (AB) a couple of times without issues, but would like reassurance of knowing I have brakes. My other question is.if I do replace the axel do I have to have the original 4ā drop axel. My trailer has low ground clearance and I like a little extra height or clearance without compromising stability, I have read the forms on this site about it but would like any other opinions.
Thanks
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Post by vikx on May 2, 2020 20:26:39 GMT -8
I would think you can add or subtract drop or go straight.
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bigblue
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1962 Shasta Airflye
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Post by bigblue on May 13, 2020 16:51:45 GMT -8
I don't know about your model specifically but I just replaced the electric brakes on my 62 Shasta with Dexter brakes from etrailer and they slid right in perfectly. I was hesitant at first about fit but I really didn't want to go through the hassle of replacing the axle so I just went for it.
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Jan 23, 2021 8:57:49 GMT -8
I don't know about your model specifically but I just replaced the electric brakes on my 62 Shasta with Dexter brakes from etrailer and they slid right in perfectly. I was hesitant at first about fit but I really didn't want to go through the hassle of replacing the axle so I just went for it. Do you remember the model? Iām working on a 70s Phoenix with a 2ā drop axle and some previous owner gutted the drums, so Iāve got nothing to work with. I have a 4 bolt axle, and all I can find are 3500lb brakes. I was hoping for a 4 bolt with a higher weight rating, as the rebuild is going to be a bit heavier than the original.
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Jan 23, 2021 9:01:15 GMT -8
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Jan 23, 2021 9:29:16 GMT -8
Adderall, Depending if you have 10" or 12" brake drums, you can replace the entire assembly for less cost than trying to gather parts to rebuild your original ones. For example: 10" electric brake assemblies (2) for less than $100 delivered or 12" assemblies (2) for about $10 more. R & P Carriages has been a good resource for me. They have a variety of trailer repair parts for a reasonable price. Just thought I'd share my opinion, didn't say it was a good one... Whitney
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 23, 2021 11:28:43 GMT -8
Trailer axle assemblies work as a system. You will not be able to just "upgrade your brakes" to a larger size because they were specifically designed "not to interchange" between the weight ratings. For example, axles with the higher ratings not only have larger diameter brakes, but they have larger wheel bearings/hubs/number of lug studs, and larger spindles. It's a system, not just a single part, like adding a cherry to your milkshake.
Generally, a #3500 rated axle assembly used a 10" diameter brake assembly. A #5200 rated axle used a 12" diameter brake assembly. Over the past 70 years you will find exceptions. Most older axles were made from forged steel, today the replacement axles use tubular steel with forged spindle ends welded on.
When you try to interchange brake parts and drums/hubs from different manufacturer's, parts made over a period of seventy years, parts from different weight rate ratings, your setting yourself up for problems.
The single best advice I can give you is to consider running commonly available suspension parts that you could find a replacement part at a NAPA store on a Sunday afternoon in a small town after you break down during your trip.
Buying replacement backing plate assemblies is the economical way to rebuild your brakes, "if the same exact parts are still available". For example your not going to be able to run modern Dexster brakes on your old Hadco drums. If you have to buy new backing plate assemblies, new hubs, new bearings and seals, your better off just biting the bullet and purchase a new axle assembly. The full assemblies are not that expensive. If you place your order with a RV dealer local to you, you can "will call" it and save freight. Dexster has a very good website that explains all of the many considerations you need to make when ordering a custom made axle assembly. If you have an axle currently under your trailer it helps you in making the measurements, and confirming your wheel/tire clearance. There's way more options than you would have ever guessed. Make sure your wheels will fit the new hubs/drums/bolt pattern.
Don't confuse the axle weight rating, with the spring weight rating. You can run a higher weight rating axle, and still use the lower/original rated springs. The higher rated axles usually also run wider heavier rated springs. Just make sure you have tires, wheels, bearing, hubs, lugs studs, brakes, axle(s), springs, shackles that are rated for the weight of your trailer AND also have a safety margin. The system is no stronger than it's weakest link.
John
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Jan 23, 2021 17:26:00 GMT -8
Thank you both. So a new drop axle be the best or most simple option here, is what Iām getting?
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Feb 3, 2021 17:36:28 GMT -8
Replaced everything with a Dexter 4" drop EZ lube assembly. Now onto Wheels and tires. I'm looking at Diamondbacks. Maybe it's time to start my own thread. Thank you for the replies.
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