slowlady
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Post by slowlady on Apr 18, 2020 16:54:05 GMT -8
Hello everyone - hope this post finds you all safe and healthy. I am making a plan for my first section of frame replacement (not-vintage 1976 Jayco) and would appreciate your feedback!
 My plan is to replace A, B, C and maybe Z. The green hashmark looking things are proposed pocket holes. I have a few questions: 1. I'm not sure what to do about pieces 1, 2, 3 and 4. They are damaged at the ends but fine for most of the length. Would adding a 1 x 2 between 2 and 3 (or somewhere) be sufficient?
2. Some pieces that are not going to be replaced, such as D, X and Y, will need pocket holes drilled to attach the new pieces. (I think). Should I pull them off the trailer to drill those or is there a way to do it with them still on? I have a Harbor Freight pocket hole jig that came with a plate for a portable option, but I can't visualize how that would work.
3. Does this piece (Z) need to be replaced?
 Mud daubers, please prepare for construction near your home. |
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 18, 2020 18:13:20 GMT -8
What shape is the inside panel? Do you have a photo to share?
If you see any signs of water damage inside at the edges, you're better off removing A&B edge curving (probably layered plywood) and pulling the framing and panel out. It's honestly easier to replace it all than pulling off the curving on the side without damaging the panel. Especially if there is water damage.
Let's assume that all the rot never reached the interior panel. You can carefully remove A&B and leave 1,2, and 3 alone and run two new framing pieces. I might put one above 4 and one above 1.
With that said, I bet when you remove A&B you'll find water damage to the interior panel.
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slowlady
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Post by slowlady on Apr 18, 2020 19:22:58 GMT -8
A few years ago (before I found mobiltec videos and this forum) I tried to replace the paneling from the inside. So it's super screwed up. Larry helped me figure out a plan: replace the frame while it's still on the trailer then take the frame off and replace the interior paneling. And the floor and everything else.
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Post by vikx on Apr 19, 2020 20:36:07 GMT -8
Yes, replace z. I pre-drill on an angle to attach these boards.
I would replace any boards that have bad ends. Sometimes you can patch but it's not as strong.
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slowlady
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Post by slowlady on Apr 25, 2020 12:27:51 GMT -8
Yes, replace z. I pre-drill on an angle to attach these boards. I would replace any boards that have bad ends. Sometimes you can patch but it's not as strong. So you would replace all those boards (1,2,3,4) instead of adding on new ones? I like this idea. I don't want to be wasteful, but I hate rot and don't want any of it left behind! |
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Post by vikx on Apr 25, 2020 12:37:38 GMT -8
Yes, it's easier for you to replace rather than patch or marry the ends. You can also add cross boards as you like. I'd be sure your table board is wide or doubled. (where the table screws anchor) That will give you a little leeway on table height adjustment. I always add extra boards and backers (like behind light fixtures) to add strength.
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