jasper
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Post by jasper on Apr 1, 2020 14:28:26 GMT -8
Hey vintage camper community, this 1969 Little Dipper has some interesting rounded edges that I've found challenging. Am I doing this right? When stapling the fold-over on curved parts of the body (as seen in picture), is it proper to make pie cuts as I am doing here? It seems this is the one way to get a flat edge to take on a curved shape. However, the cuts become small tears that may extend beyond the butyl tape and j-rail that will eventually cover it. Are there any best practices here? photos.app.goo.gl/bseFRv7zJDveudCj7photos.app.goo.gl/sj1MBd8yRH9KqStf8
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PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Apr 1, 2020 18:03:15 GMT -8
Let others chime in - but the inside curve you're working with makes things different from my experience and seems as if it would put too much stress on the aluminum when bent in that direction. You can drill a 1/8 inch hole at the end of any cracks you have and that will help stop them from spreading. Experimenting with the width of the V and predrilling a hole at the sharp end where your snip terminates may help as well but the forces of that bend will want to split the skin... Also curious what gauge aluminum you're using?
On many trailers the skin pieces in that area simply butt up against each other and a 90 degree piece of trim with putty "seals" the corner. The trim can be difficult to fashion but it actually works well when done properly.
Good luck!
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 1, 2020 19:01:27 GMT -8
Based on my experience, a small cut will be needed on extreme curves. But keep it as small as possible. Not to the very edge of the putty tape. Your cut seems very close to the edge.
When I do a cut I place putty behind it (where possible) and well as the normal putty under the jrail. If the space is tight, consider window glazing tape or gutter seal under the cut. Plus, the new vapor barrier will help.
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jasper
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Post by jasper on Apr 2, 2020 7:59:21 GMT -8
Thanks all. The gauge of aluminum is .024. Perhaps using a combination of these methods may help out; butyl tape and hole drilled to prevent tearing. Appreciated.
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Post by vikx on Apr 2, 2020 11:20:49 GMT -8
Also seal any cuts or splits with OSI gutter seal (Lowes, comes in a tube). I use gutter seal on the staple divots as well. Do this before putty. I don't recommend substituting products; OSI is proven and works well. You can smooth with a paint thinner dipped finger to keep from getting "bumps".
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Apr 8, 2020 7:08:37 GMT -8
That's how our 63 Friendship Vacationaire was built. Roof plane skin was cut flush to the sides, putty tape on both surfaces, and J-rail was actually a 90 degree extrusion with screws in the top, not sides. We followed the same procedure when replacing the roof. Hasn't leaked.
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troutcamp
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Post by troutcamp on Jul 6, 2021 12:29:58 GMT -8
PS: How does one insert photos directly into the thread post? I see the "insert image" button, but it asks for a URL instead of a jpeg file upload. I tried to paste in the URL from my Facebook group post that has the photos, but that didn't work either, hence my pasted links in the body of the message. Hmmmm....
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PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Jul 6, 2021 15:57:44 GMT -8
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