Unlike the the others I cant seem to take this 2x2 out as it seems to go the entire length of the camper. What are my options? I've considered trying to find it from the inside but i Wanted to consult the expert
Is this the rear of the camper with an inset door and a framing piece that sits in the center to the right of the doorway?
It runs the length of the camper (front to rear) and it's solid throughout other than the last inch or two?
The rear wall (I assume) does not sit on this piece but rather a piece attached to it that runs side to side? The rear wall is then 1x as seen on the side here?
I'm trying to deduce whether you can trim both the rotted 2x2 and 1x back to solid wood and attach a solid piece of wood (maybe a 2x4) to span the rotted area and give you a solid piece to attach the rear wall. Hopefully that makes sense. I can draw it if it helps. But the main issue is how the wall (not seen in the photo) came together in that corner.
Is this the only framing underneath that's rotted?
From what I can gather and not shown in the pictures is that that 2x2 does seem to run the whole length of the camper. The door frame doesnt interact with the 2x2 at all except for a handful of staples. The framing underneath is actually quite solid everywhere that leaky water pipe wasnt touching 14 by Ron Smith, on Flickr
only one of those cross beams were my addition and the side 2x2. The rear wall is extremely odd because of how the camper is shaped. rear wall by Ron Smith, on Flickr its a crude drawing but thats the basic shape
It's hard to know how much would be trimmed and how much the replacement wood needs ripped without being there but I'm sure you get the idea. It has to be exact if reusing the skin. When I'm reusing the skin, I'll do repairs and reattach the skin to be sure the new framing doesn't need adjustment.
My main concern is the subfloor above the framing. Hopefully that's the only sub-floor that rotted. You can only piecemeal so much of it before effecting the tinsile strength. What's your plan? Cut out the sub-floor to the walls and patch? Is the sub-floor solid under the shower walls? If yes, the idea above gives you something extra to screw the new sub-floor into.
the subfloor under the shower was pretty bad. The whole thing doesnt need to be redone, the wood is pretty solid in JUST that top left corner. I can't lift the camper up until the corners are done and at the moment its sitting on some bricks so I cant touch the floor at all either. I think I've gotta completely tkae it down to the frame to make the needed repairs. The floor is two plywood pieces that form a T shape. Both have had leak issue but the back was far worse than the front. I have some pictures of how the floor seems to be secured.
I think you're right, it appears to need taken down to the frame to address the rot. These campers rely on overlapping elements to give strength to piece that in themselves are not strong. If you start cutting and patching too many frame/floor issues you'll undermine that strength.
Best to do it right any enjoy the camper for years to come.
Gosh, I'm really trying to understand the logistics of the frame without taking it completely apart. Either the rotted 2x2 is 13 ft long and the top of this drawing is attached with screws and staples OR the top of this picture spans full the width of the camper 7ft and the rotted piece is just secured under neath the floooring.
Ill get into it more tonight and tomorrow and report back
I'm a believer in repairing rather than reframing the entire camper. But to make it work you need to decide if the rot has spread to the point where you're compromising the safety/strength with too many patches. If the frame and floor were solid other than under the bathroom, I'd say patch it. If it's spread to other areas, I'd say use the frame/floor there now as a template and rebuild it.
We had a member once (on a camper with wheels) cut the floor and frame loose from the body, block up the body, rebuild the frame/floor and slide it in place to reattach it. Clever.