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Post by Teachndad on Nov 24, 2020 6:53:25 GMT -8
Hey Tom, That ceiling looks stellar!! Stand back and take a bow. Where did you get the extra tall canopy? BTW, I always suggest a thick layer of plastic sheeting that goes on over the trailer first before tarping. Tarps have a tendancy to decompose and the weaves open up and they leak. Moreover, if you have pipe vents for plumbing or the stove vent, they can chafe the tarp from below. This can happen when it's windy if the tarp is not fastened tightly. The plastic sheeting offers an extra layer of moisture protection as well as chafing protection over the J-rail as well. I have had really good luck with this. I think it was the 4 mil thickness. Cheers, Rod
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Nov 24, 2020 7:56:38 GMT -8
Thanks Rod! Good tip with the tarp, I tore a whole or two putting on/off. My issue, one of many :-), was a demo'd ceiling I kept wanting to get to but could not. Probably should have thrown some temporary plywood on as my teepee method was not very sturdy and took a lot of attention. roofwithtarp by Tom Myers, on Flickr The canopy/car port is from Advanced Outdoor, I bought on Amazon. I've not heard of the manufacturer. Said shipping would take a couple weeks but I received in a couple days. Looks pretty sturdy for something portable. Not a major downside as my trailer just fits, but to get the sides to 8' in height there are a couple short extensions you need to add and bolt in, no telescope feature to raise and lower. www.amazon.com/ADVANCE-OUTDOOR-Carport-Shelter-Anchors/dp/B07TZGYJ33/ref=psdc_13638750011_t1_B081C6HD6T
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mtpalms
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Post by mtpalms on Nov 24, 2020 9:43:29 GMT -8
The ceiling looks great, Tom! Did you use flexible cove molding in the corners? The guys thought they would surprise me by installing the Goblin's interior walls after redoing the framing, and they forgot to install the welt molding. It was indeed a surprise. Anyway, I found flexible cove molding that already has a bead of caulking on it, and I am going to give that a shot. I used some in the house as a test to hide some small wires above the kitchen sink, and it is holding just fine. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FY09ZSI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1If the link doesn't work: "Instatrim 1/2 Inch (Covers 1/4" Gap) Flexible, Self-Adhesive, Caulk and Trim Strips for Floors, Ceilings, Countertops and More (Ivory, 10ft Long, 2 Pack)" Good luck with the roof, hope you get it done in time.
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Nov 24, 2020 10:20:00 GMT -8
Thank you mtpalms!
Not sure on welting options, in my case the welting was still in good shape. Lucky for me, on less item on the punch list!
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Dec 1, 2020 16:18:30 GMT -8
Finished the ceiling framing, had the AC/DC already rebuilt, soldered and taped and inspected by my father-in-law-electrician, and that's in place now too. Still waiting on the roof but hopefully soon. newceilingtop by Tom Myers, on Flickr
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Post by Teachndad on Dec 27, 2020 22:11:57 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Well, today’s entry is a summary of recent activities on my Westerner. 1. Posted about adding additional new stringers a few weeks ago to my ’57 Westerner floor. Then, I bought new tires for my ’57 Westerner, and towed the frame 360 miles north about 10 days ago. I am on elder care duty (off and on for a few weeks). So, what the heck, I took the trailer with me. Loaded up all the lumber, tools, plywood and even a portable workbench as well. Let's not forget the spare tire, too. I left the kitchen sink back home. 2. At the destination, I re-leveled the trailer frame and got to work inside a garage for a change. 3. Replaced one of my new floor stringers because it had twisted as it dried. I had to cut and notch the new stringer in 5 different places. Bought a primo piece o lumber at the local hardware store as a replacement. Paid 5 bucks more, but it’s not going to twist. I cut the twisted one up, burned it, and had a beer. 4. Spent a lot of time planning the order of the floor build. Freaked when I realized I have been working on this trailer for 8 years. Drank another beer. 5. For the first time ever, I drilled 4 small holes into a steel crossmember for fastening 2 short 2 x 4s in an unconventional manner for the floor support system. 2 of the holes were too high despite remeasuring and dimpling with a punch. I don’t like asymmetric holes. 6. Measured, marked and used a Forstner bit to drill recesses for the carriage bolt heads in the stringers. Rod
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sawset
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Post by sawset on Dec 28, 2020 5:50:50 GMT -8
58 Scout cabinets. Now that it's winter here, time to head to the wood shop and get this part done. Outside frames are out of doug fir. I like the grain pattern. Plus it's relatively lite and strong. But splinters easy, so can be a challenge. Ply is birch. Door frames birch. There has been some borrowing of designs from those by others that we've liked. Starting with an empty interior, and going by nail holes and other clues adds to the challenge. One thing I noticed when stripping the existing unit, is that the floor was asbestos based floor tile. Maybe they did me a favor by removing that too. 1115201606 by johnchr777, on Flickr 1128201814a by johnchr777, on Flickr 1213200952 by johnchr777, on Flickr 1124201714 by johnchr777, on Flickr 1125201647 by johnchr777, on Flickr 1223201729 by johnchr777, on Flickr
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Post by Teachndad on Dec 28, 2020 6:36:00 GMT -8
John,
Your cabinets look stellar! I can only think that the trailer when complete will be fantastic and I really like the scalop under the upper cabinet. I always envy you woodworker cabinet guys for your skill set.
Restore on!
Rod
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Dec 28, 2020 10:09:27 GMT -8
The cabinets are splendid!
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Jan 18, 2021 14:03:52 GMT -8
Got the roof on. Finally. Need to travel to get some Proflex to coat the seams but the heavy lifting is done. A couple interesting compromises along the way. Shifted the rafters forward about 6" to be able to replace some rotted paneling, filled the gap with a piece of scrap 1x, did not think it would make a difference, but it created a low spot so had to build the 1x back up to be level with the other rafters. Worked great, roof seems to pitch nicely. New roof by Tom Myers, on Flickr Could not get staples through the .04 skin, had the compressor up to 120 psi, maybe needed more power, so went with brads, 5/8", worked out great once I got the pressure right. Also cut the overlap closer to 3/4", my jrail is 1" so don't think that will be a problem but I guess I will find out soon enough. Will pull the skirt skins in the spring, when temperatures are above freezing and there is no sign of snow, ha!
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Post by vikx on Jan 18, 2021 20:42:20 GMT -8
Looks very good Tom. Be sure to get clear brushable Proflex (paint on) as they sell other products as well.
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 19, 2021 6:02:26 GMT -8
Hey Tom, I bet that felt really really good to get that roof on. Did you feel like you were trailer restoration phenom? Good job rolling with the punches. Cheers, Rod
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 24, 2021 6:50:28 GMT -8
To get the staples through .040 metal skin use Portacable Chisel Tooth staples. They are the only brand sharp enough to penetrate the thick metal. I have had great success with them going through two layers of .030 on my fold overs. And I just finished putting the metal on the 48 Mainline and the center of this roof is .040. The staples went through it like it wasn't even there and that was overlayed onto .030 metal. So the total was .070 inches thick and they went through like going through butter.
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sawset
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Post by sawset on Jan 27, 2021 5:50:54 GMT -8
tpcm5000 Regarding the roof top - it looks like you have a lap joint and screws to hold it down with. Is that what was originally used. Also what did you use as a seal between layers. And ,just one more, how do you intend to use the Proflex. Would anyone else have comments.
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Jan 27, 2021 12:20:09 GMT -8
Hi Sawset, Yes, the overlap seam was what I had before, I removed a factory seamed galvanized roof that was coated in goop. I would have liked to have brought the roof all way down to the windows, however, my Yellowstone is two-toned and two-textured so I just went with the overlap seam and replaced the roof section. That said, when I did remove to rebuild the ceiling, the rafters were bone-dry minus those where the vent had been neglected - so the original overlap seams held up for 50 years - I hope mine do too. I used butyl in between the seams. Made sure I was on a rafter and screwed stainless steal screws with similar spacing to what was there before. Also before the butyl, I used gutter seal on the old screw holes. Lots of posts on our forum on use of that and Proflex, particularly from Vik. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/1599/roof-seams-when-sealing-necessaryI plan to brush on several coats, over the two seams and on the screw heads. Hope that helps.
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