ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Sept 15, 2019 20:16:35 GMT -8
Hi friends,
Up here in Canada supplies for restoring trailers are hard to come by.
I need to order a new roof for my trailer. I spoke to the local RV store and it is $200 a a running foot ( just do the math on that one for my 15 ft trailer. They know they can charge that because it’s usually insurance claims), and up here in Canada in our basically socialist country the government runs the insurance company... so you get the picture).
I have looked into ordering skin from the USA. Our weak Canadian also causes that to be really expensive with shipping.
So to make a long story short, my girlfriend who is also restoring a vintage trailer came across a local manufacturer who creates roofs for semi- trailers.
He is willing to sell me what he calls “aluminum trailer roofing” that they use on the semis.
It is 0.40 thickness. 103 inches wide, and get this... the price he will charge me is $24.28 a running foot!
So unless there is a compelling reason you can tell me not to buy this, I’m going to order from him.
We are having the trailer professionally painted so I’m conference about the finish, just whether you think it is thick enough?
I will ask them if they can put a Pittsburg seam on each end, but if not, then I have friends with a window company who have a ten foot wide break and with a bit of YouTube help hopefully they can do the seams for me.
I’m hoping to finish it this winter to do a summer trip.
I would appreciate your thoughts
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Post by vikx on Sept 15, 2019 20:25:39 GMT -8
It should work and .40 is thicker than most trailer skin. The edges may be hard to bend over. You can always slot at the curves and then seal with gutter seal before putty and trim. The Pittsburg may be a little difficult but do-able. Good luck with it!
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Sept 15, 2019 20:55:58 GMT -8
Thanks @vikx The original roof skin is thicker than the rest of the skin. Seems like it’s almost double the thickness of the walls. So I’m thinking this may be not to far off.
I’m thinking to use straps and patience.
How much does skin sell for per running foot in your area?
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Sept 15, 2019 20:58:22 GMT -8
Oh and one other question. Would there be any value in me doing some careful measurements and then pre-bending the side or using my welders pliers before I even get it up there?
At least I have my degree in patience after working so long on this old girl! 😂
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Sept 16, 2019 10:07:01 GMT -8
It should work and .40 is thicker than most trailer skin. The edges may be hard to bend over. You can always slot at the curves and then seal with gutter seal before putty and trim. The Pittsburg may be a little difficult but do-able. Good luck with it! I agree with Vikx, it is tougher to deal with. I covered my entire teardrop style camper with the stuff, but I had access to a heavy metal brake. Made my own trim and all. It is a "raw" mill finish and I would highly recommend painting it after install. I didn't paint mine (yet), thought about polishing it, (uh, just say no) but it will oxidize. Ended up with a small water intrusion and it corroded from the inside out (picture it as white rust). Another place oxidized bad because I got my sweaty arm up against it when working on the tongue box, had to sand that oxidation off. Also, clean it before install, has a nasty oil on it. If Pittsburg lock is not possible, might try the simple "S" lock. I just did an over lap in the front and dressed it with a trim piece I made. (and sealed the snot out of it) Had to use the brake to follow the roof bends, can't be done by hand, well, at least not and have it look decent. JMHO, didn't say it was a good one...  |
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kamhawk
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1975 Scotty Serro
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Post by kamhawk on Sept 16, 2019 13:08:44 GMT -8
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kamhawk
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1975 Scotty Serro
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Post by kamhawk on Sept 16, 2019 13:14:02 GMT -8
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Mar 25, 2020 13:06:23 GMT -8
Thanks for all these replies. Good to see it in real life.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Mar 25, 2020 14:17:51 GMT -8
I feel like there is an old thread on here with people using some metal from the tractor supply. It might be the same kind, im not sure. Maybe search for it?
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Mar 26, 2020 5:28:27 GMT -8
Look Great! Good idea with going with the short seam by the windows. I'm not a purist, so my mind wanders. I realize the S-lock is a reliable, water resistant method, however, since this seam is so far down the front and back (and a short area), could one not do almost as well with a overlap seam (I'm thinking 3-4 inches) with putty tape and screws along the edge? Wouldn't be as big of hump to try to seal around the window as well.?. Not trying to hi-jack your thread, just trying to provoke some thoughts.  My intentions are to re-use my side metal as well. Just a thought, didn't say it was a good one..... |
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Mar 30, 2020 9:01:50 GMT -8
I'm not a purist, so my mind wanders. I realize the S-lock is a reliable, water resistant method, however, since this seam is so far down the front and back (and a short area), could one not do almost as well with a overlap seam (I'm thinking 3-4 inches) with putty tape and screws along the edge? Wouldn't be as big of hump to try to seal around the window as well.?. Not trying to hi-jack your thread, just trying to provoke some thoughts. My intentions are to re-use my side metal as well. Just a thought, didn't say it was a good one..... I'm in agreement with above. On the scratch build we are working on, we are using that method of simply an overlay with surface screws and putty. We are modeling our design on our 63 Friendship Vacationaire, which was NOT very sophisticated in its methods. There were no Pittsburgh seams, ONLY overlaps with surface screws, including a vertical seam on each side. On the '63 renovation, we replaced every screw with a new stainless steel one AFTER painting (...we removed most screws first, leaving a few to hold everything together). We actually like the look of the evenly spaced shiny lines of screws. Meanwhile, the install of this new roof looks great. I was worried about bending over the edges, but now feel confident. Thanks for sharing. |
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tpcm5000
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Yellowstone 1966
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Post by tpcm5000 on May 15, 2020 9:37:07 GMT -8
On the hunt for .030, or so skin, 8' wide for my roof. Came across this source in Roseville, GA: getmetals.com/The price looks pretty good if it were not for the shipping, but perhaps someone in the southeast could use them. 3003 Aluminum Sheet 0.032" x 8' x 10' SHTAL_032-3003 QTY: 1 $208.12 Shipment: Cure Logistics Delivery: Albany, NY Subtotal $208.12 Shipping $354.00 Total $562.12 |
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