tegra1027
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Post by tegra1027 on Aug 13, 2019 6:00:00 GMT -8
Hello. I am new to this forum. I have a fair amount of experience with RV's and electrical... More so in the Coach bus side of the industry. I may be over thinking a lot of what I am attempting to do here given the substantial difference in vehicles.
This trailer I am working on has had solar panels installed but they had bought all the components separately. My task is to rewire this trailer so everything works. I know of one 12V battery, and I assume there is a battery tender, given the solar panels. However I'm not sure where any other component is. All I see is a mess of wiring. Im not sure where the breaker box even is. A few basic questions I have are as follows:
Do these trailers have 110V and 12V on the interior?
If so, what components or fixtures would be wired 110V vs 12V?
Is the breaker box usually hidden (under a bench perhaps) or more out in the open and accessible?
Any help or resources you can point me to are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Post by vikx on Aug 13, 2019 10:23:10 GMT -8
It would help us a lot to know the size of the trailer you are working on. Most of our vintage trailers are smaller and have pretty simple electrical systems. Larger trailers became more complicated.
Answers:
1. Most vintage trailers have a 110 system and a very limited 12 volt system
2. Lighting and outlets are basic 110 components, there may be a single ceiling 12 volt light
3. Breaker box often in a cabinet, see below
Longer trailers have both a 12V system and a 110 system, usually run thru a converter. One side of the converter box is 110 with breakers feeding the circuits. One circuit might be for lighting, another for the back outlets and so on. The wiring is Romex and obviously 110. The other side of the converter is 12 volts. It has hefty lugs for the battery hot and grounds and a fuse panel. The converter uses a transformer to convert 110 to 12 volts for charging and supplying 12 volts when on shore power. Wiring is stranded automotive wire.
Most converters are lower down and have a flat metal or plastic panel covering the workings. I'd say maybe 12" wide by 6 high for a small one. Look below a closet, at the dinettes or even near the bed. I've never seen a converter hidden, as the front needs to be accessible to change fuses and check breakers. The cover is often brown with some louvers for ventilation and is a Magnatek brand.
A vintage trailer has a 110 system if it's only one light. The breaker box is often in the cabinet above the sink but sometimes in another location. For instance, if the trailer has a potty closet, it might be high up in there. Rarely, the trailer has a ceramic fuse block for the old round fuses, hidden in the dinette or under the bed area. There is an inlet on the trailer side to power the trailer; it is male with prongs that an extension cord attaches to. If you can trace the wire from the inlet, it should lead to the breaker box. Almost all vintage lighting is 110 and some fixtures included a single outlet.
Many vintage trailers had no 12 volt system at all. Some had one light that would only operate if the vehicle parking lights were on. Some high end 60s trailers actually had a primitive converter and dual light fixtures, both 12V and 110. The 1964 Airstream Bambi had a "Univolt" converter that was well know to have issues.. I won't get into that here.
TIP: The ground bar and the neutral bar are ALWAYS isolated in a trailer. In other words, the neutral bar is insulated from the metal box with only white neutral wires. Be sure there is a secure and clean ground to the trailer frame.
I hope this helps. It sounds like you have a previous owner mess on your hands. I would start with the 110 system and figure out the wiring and fixtures first. Keep it separate from the 12 volt side and solar panels. Once you've figured out the 110 (and have found or added a breaker box), move on to the 12 volt.
On my trailers, I add a complete 12 volt system starting with the battery, running thru a J box and up into the trailer fuse block with circuits branching out from there. So, begin at the battery. You know the vehicle charge line has to charge the battery, so the 7 way cord needs to connect. For that connection, I use a J box under the trailer. It contains the 7 way, the tow wires, grounds and a hot up and into the trailer. From there, you can build any type of 12 volt system you like. It should be fairly easy to add the solar and controller once the basics are in place.
PM me for my email address for photos. And keep us in the loop.
NOTE: The lights could have been changed out to 12 volts. It's easy to tell if the bulbs are automotive type with typical 12v sockets. I've seen some 110 fixtures switched to 12 volts with the odd "light bulb" type of bulb. They look 110 but are 12 volt. You may have some sleuthing to do...
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