wings2fly
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Post by wings2fly on May 23, 2019 13:23:39 GMT -8
I have a '64 Shasta Compact with the original coupler for a 2" ball. I have towed it with this but it does make me a little nervous. So I have two challenges.
1. Finding an appropriate lock for it, so it can't be easily stolen. 2. More importantly, how safe are these original couplers? I am used to the newer couplers with not only the latch, but also the safety pin. The original coupler, as far as I can see doesn't have an option for a safety pin. Of course, if I replace it is no longer vintage, at least as the coupler goes.
Okay, question. Assuming the original coupler is still safe to use, would it still be better to put on a new modern coupler?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 23, 2019 16:56:13 GMT -8
Need to see clear photos of your coupler but, the original couplers are just fine as long as they aren't damaged and the locking mechanism works.... They work great! They are actually stronger than the new ones due to the better metals that they dealt with back then. Today's couplers come from China and I don't trust anything they make.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on May 23, 2019 17:15:59 GMT -8
I asked the exact same question a few years ago on this forum for my 1960 Mobile Scout. I was doing a restoration and had concern for the ancient coupler. The answer from more than one member was this: If is hasn't broken in 50+ years, it probably won't in the foreseeable future. Furthermore, members here also attested that the steel used in those days was far superior in all of the relevant measures of steel "strength" than the contemporary stamped steel couplers you will find in all the usual places on line, with cheap steel made in China (but gosh bless the Chinese for their competence in mobile phone components/assembly and cheap HD TV's... just not high strength steel for cheap consumer products.)
Regarding security. I researched this thoroughly and found that not many coupler locking devices fit my 1960 coupler properly. I looked and looked... and made it my business to see the problem from the thief's point of view. I also found that the weak link in even the most robust devices, was the locking mechanism itself. I found nothing that exceeded the defenses of the worst bicycle locks and dingys you use to 'lock' your luggage. Garbage, all of it. So I had to break the issue up into two parts: coupler access defense... and a world class lock. Both separate problems in my opinion. In order to defend my fully restored trailer (appraised at about $30K), I was willing to spend close to $1K to make its theft very unlikely. Using all of the observations I've made from the coupler lock maker's claims, along with watching lock picking videos, along with the videos of a particular locksmith in Colorado... I designed my own custom coupler shield and paired it with a nicely modified commercial high security lock... making it ultra high security. The shield protects the coupler, while also protecting the lock from typical physical attacks. The lock's key cylinder, would take a professional many hours, if not days to figure out. I had my design fabricated by a local retired blacksmith. Along the way, we also designed a simple, but effective wheel lock, also with an independent high security pad lock.
If anyone would like to see pictures, I would be glad to post in the next few days.
UPDATE: I see Mobiltec chimed in about the crappy steel from China... He probably contributed to my thread from years back. Definitely make sure your coupler is not damaged. You can probably modify the latch part to accept a safety pin.
Mobil also had a thread recently on trailer security that had lots of good tips and approaches to reducing the risk of theft and also improve the chances of recovery.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on May 23, 2019 21:33:50 GMT -8
Many have questioned the safety of hooking up with the old coupler style that Shasta used, since there doesn't appear to be a way to pin the strap down that goes over the front to lock on the ball. But there is. (I can't for the life of me find the better photos now.)
On the streetside of the hitch, there is a hole through the coupler directly behind the slide. It is covered by the slide when it is open, but is exposed when hitched and closed. This is where you would pin it. This prevents the slide from becoming detached from the ball. I have used it a lot, and assume that more times than not, the coupler is safe to tow with, but it has to be understood and used properly. I use a padlock rather than a pin.
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wings2fly
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Post by wings2fly on May 24, 2019 6:46:30 GMT -8
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Post by bigbill on May 24, 2019 10:24:02 GMT -8
If it is there you can only see it when coupler is in the latched position not open like in the picture. Many people drill the hole if they don't have one. But there is no hitch lock made that will prevent theft by a pro since they came up with rig that hooks over and under the frame rails and has a new coupler out in front of the original. It takes less than thirty seconds to install. This is why wheel chock locks help a they have to be defeated before trailer can be moved. But even those won't stop a determine thief. As my ole Daddy used to say locks only discourage honest people.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 24, 2019 13:57:49 GMT -8
You have the little tips that slide into the open slots on top of the coupler. That is what locks the mechanism in place so it doesn't jump out by accident. They are on the side of the handle... See them? As for locking the coupler with a padlock is concerned, that wouldn't hold back a thief at all as they all carry bolt cutters. Using heavy chains and then locking them with a case hardened padlock is a much better way to go.
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Alaska Shasta
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Post by Alaska Shasta on May 24, 2019 22:25:39 GMT -8
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wings2fly
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Post by wings2fly on May 26, 2019 13:19:09 GMT -8
All post are very helpful. Thank you. I like the replacement coupler from Redline. I may look into that. Thanks
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 28, 2019 18:43:35 GMT -8
You need to clean the coupler. It's not sliding forward far enough to reveal the hole. I had the exact same issue with my '64 Compact. Shoot some lube up into it, work it as far in both directions as you can get it to move, rinse & repeat until you see the hole.
It's SCARY how many people are pulling these campers with this exact type of coupler using zip ties to hold the latch shut. And what's even scarier is that the reason they don't see the hole, is because the coupler is not fully latching to begin with.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 28, 2019 20:11:06 GMT -8
You need to clean the coupler. It's not sliding forward far enough to reveal the hole. I had the exact same issue with my '64 Compact. Shoot some lube up into it, work it as far in both directions as you can get it to move, rinse & repeat until you see the hole. It's SCARY how many people are pulling these campers with this exact type of coupler using zip ties to hold the latch shut. And what's even scarier is that the reason they don't see the hole, is because the coupler is not fully latching to begin with. What Charlie said.....
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wings2fly
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Post by wings2fly on May 29, 2019 8:57:41 GMT -8
Zip ties? I thought that was what duck tape was for... What Charlie said, I will do. Thanks
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